kurigan

I had started using these as blocks on Snake. They work well, but I'm not ready to show more of Snake till more of her rigging is complete. I’ll employ them as part of the stays on Hawk next. I originally got the idea for that from Vesta, so thanks Admiral. I decided to halt progress on Snake for the moment as this will be the third time I’ve re-done most of her rigging, and run all my experiments on Hawk. By the time I’ve solved all my problems, Hawk should be complete, a feather in my cap, and I can move on to finishing Snake in one effort. Hawk’s mast is a bit forward yes, but many of the examples I looked at for period cutters had a similar setup and in my case I need the deck space aft, much more than I need it forward. As for raking the mast, it defiantly makes a vessel look more sleek and from a real world perspective, will greatly improve your point of sail, but I’m trying to keep hawk’s construction simple and stable. Check out Narthex, Snake and Scorpion where I’ve employed raked masts, quite successfully. I’m also not entirely sure of the name “Hawk” not for a merchant vessel any way. I felt I needed a name to post her. I went with the first thing that came to mind based on the figurehead I transferred from the old hull. I figured it was bad luck not to. What does everyone else think, does Hawk work, and if not, got any suggestions?

I’ve been experimenting and working on my ship modeling theory as of late; having fallen ill over the holidays, I didn’t have the ware with all for much more. Pressing on with my “Hawk” project, as a prototype, I’ve not only made some adjustments to improve the cutter specifically, but began implementing some new ideas to improve, the look and accuracy of my string rigging in general. The first of which, I wish to show for consideration, is the use of 4624’s as “dead eyes”. Here they have been employed, much as they historically were, at the bottom of the shrouds, in order to better control their tension. Previously, I had a great deal of trouble creating proper tension using single lengths tied taught, only to have them pull lose their mounts or sag once their counter parts were in place. Having observed them so closely and intensely throughout the tedium of hand tying each one, I no longer feel I can objectively assess the visual plausibility of the end result. What say you, the Classic Pirates community? I also wonder if this was a truly unique idea on my part or if the nagging suspicion I harbor is correct, that these parts were displayed in such a use by a previous member, which likely inspired me? Once the theory is well formed, the implementation is quite simple, though time consuming and does require patience, tweezers and very fine cordage. I use embroidery thread, found in any hobby or arts and craft store very inexpensively where I live. I wicked the ends with Elmer’s Glue, so they more readily pass through the narrow slits in the wheels. The two members were tied separately, the “dead eyes” (4624s) and mounting clips knotted in place, on a jig built of Lego bricks. They were then mounted in place and connected by the threading of the eyes. The slack was worked out with a pair of tweezers and the end tied off to the upper portion of the shroud with a half hitch above the “dead eye”. The assembly is about as close as I figure I can be to historically accurate, on this scale and in this medium. I’m just not sure if they look quite the thing. Reference Image

I have to chime in here and say I find your “Modus Navum Flectere Sebeum” quite intriguing. I really like the overall effect for the sake of the contours it achieves. I really don’t think the resulting gaps would amount to any great detractor on a full and complete model as they only seem obvious upon very fine scrutiny. I imagine that a complete structure would block enough light from either side for most any open spaces to blend in to the surface as black voids. As far as any internal components are concerned, they could simply be omitted, leaving the model as a shell or and an independent structure of decks and bulkheads could be built in a more conventional manner and trapped in place as the shell is assembled around it. I would love to see an entire vessel, even a small one, done in this style as a proof of concept. I also fined your first images quite ominous. I think you’ve really got something there. I also like to see that developed further, maybe some more action or a back story.

I had moment so i opened LDD and work on this problem a bit. I came up with the following so far but no way to mount it to the hull. I've run out of time to spend on this but it's a start to an idea. I'd suggest brick-building your hull(s) if you want to better control the proportions for realism though. all my later, better LDD ships as well most of my plastic fleet use single stud prows and i find it works well. My link My link My link

She’s great, I love her. I got exactly what you were going for right away. A historic hull adapted and accented with fantasy elements to give it some movie flare. Would have much rather had Disney/TLG go with a design like yours instead of a redressed Black Pearl. Though I’m sure there is room for small improvements, for my taste you have a fine sea worthy vessel here. I would like to see that red stripe continue to the stern if not around the gallery, looks a bit awkward as is and Yawgmoth has a point, that some gold leaf might tie the color scheme together. On the other hand most pirates would strip all the leaf down and resell it, why leave perfectly good money stuck to the side of the ship, when it could be rum in your belly? A third color instead might work, perhaps more white, like all the bone accents. This all assumes you’re not far beyond the point of taking her apart, however. I know with my string rigging so far, the last thing I want to do is disassemble anything beneath it. There is a curiosity in the one image though; it looks like you’re for mast is bent midway up the lower section. Maybe it’s just an optional illusion, but is this on purpose? Thanks so much for sharing her!

Despite the proportions being a bit distorted, this is really good. An understanding of ship design is quite evident. Many of the essential elements are present, shaped properly and of course in the correct places. Sounds like not much of a compliment, but I assure you, from me it is. The brick built sails are just awesome. Maybe the bottom of the main course is a bit too contoured, but I still see what you’re going for. I also like your use of green hull sections to look like copper, clever. If I may suggest; much of the distorted effect I mentioned can be accredited to the use of those prefab hulls. Though this forum is full of examples where builders have managed to compensate for their inaccuracy very well, it always requires compromise in design to make such a hull look realistic. Especially since you’re working in a digital environment I would recommend brick building the whole of your hull, so you can design a more dynamic hull, which will appear far more proportional to the real thing. Check out the links in my signature if you want to see some of my work as examples of my suggestion. All in all, keep going you’ve really got something here, thanks for sharing.

I don't follow that at all. Were you making a sail driven vessel, like a man-of-war or pirate ship? If this is case, then a modern cruise ship isn't even close. If you're making something more contemporary, you may just be in the wrong forum. Ancient wooden sailing vessels tended to have very round bows, while modern steel hulls, like a cruise ship, reduce forward resistance with far more angular prows.

Hate to sound negative, but your entire premise seems flawed. As many have pointed out already you need to know ahead of time all the details of your end goal. Not only does era of origin matter, but the type of vessel, is equally so. There is no “one hull type” that can be considered standard in any way. Every type of vessel from any era or nationality has important and particular aspects. If you’re looking at making a 19th century schooner, you’ll be looking to achieve a very different shape than if you were modeling a 14th or 15th carrack, while both vessels are likely of similar size. Some of the methods offered as examples are quite novel and interesting, in particular cb4’s, but they can be quite complicated and involve many special bricks. If you’re looking for something more straight forward and conventional, I suggest looking at my work, linked in my signature. As for making the piece look more round you will find, as with all modeling, a series of compromises will be necessary. If you go my rout you’ll have to settle for simply simulating curvature with digital steps by staggering bricks. A good way to plot this out ahead of time is to use a bitmap editor, like MS Paint. Draw the curve in profile and consider each bit a brick of 1X1 studs, then copy the pattern in bricks, plastic or digital. Part of the CGH method, originally intended for pre-fab hulls, involves using articulated pieces, bent and staged to look very much rounder. I do believe Greenhair’s “Build a Frigate” tutorial has been indexed, so it can still be referenced. You may also like something like what’s used on the new imperial flagship. All in all a 6 stud wide hull is downright tiny. Anytime to refine your scale so small you handicap your ability to work in high detail. If I have one outright suggestion, it would be to increase the size of your scale as much as you can.

She looking great! Th over all shape is fantastic. I would love to see you use this method to make a more historic Dutch 74, perhaps like Waakzaamheid, from "Desolation Island". if i have one curiosity, it's that the prow seems a bit low in the water, was the movie ship so, I'm no expert on the films?

Scorpion exploded! When an unstable floor lamp fell over in the night, it came down upon Scorpion scattering her super suture. Fortunately as her parts are all individual components, loosely fitted together there was little reconstruction, it was just a matter of putting most of the pieces back in place. While she was apart is did however do a little bit on her stern. I added the last gun port and put gun barrels on slides behind, so it looks from the outside that there are 20 to her board side. I’m not sure I like the effect though. I also raised the windows a trifle but don’t think it changes much. At the very least she now rates in the 6th for sure and is suitable for a Post Captain. As for some of the concerns raised in previous replies. I don’t know that she’s not mini-fig scale at all, I just figure she’s on the edge of consideration. The capstan is essentially the one I originally designed for Lively. The masts are made with those parts as they are what I had. I did use 2X2 round bricks to simulate the rope or iron bands but I don’t have enough of a good color to make the rest. I’m pretty pleased with the guns too. They were something of a compromise but ultimately worked out to a nice design, thanks. Now I just need enough 1X1 rounds plates to make wheels.

I agree the spears look terrible, but for the sake of the photo they fit. Because the holes are made by matching up two bottoms, there’s no standard Lego piece that fits. Light saber blades are too small and plates and technic axles are too big. I may actually carve some bars from balsa wood in time.

Admiral- As always good points. I agree with you on the masts and sails, but not at all sure how I’ll approach changing that. I think you hit on the real issue with the hull though. Although the image is a slightly larger vessel than mine, the shape is supposed to be about the same and raising the stern might be the solution. As for the bow sprit, many cutters like this do have them horizontal or nearly so, at least in a lot of the drawings and paintings I studied and it makes mounting it easier and more stable, so I think I’ll stick with it. Hiawatha- yeah the original was “cute” but far from anything like a model. When I built it years ago I was just getting back in to Legos since “growing up”. I was building off the format of Classic Pirates as best I could with only a few bricks aiming for something like Caribbean Clipper. At the time I was pretty proud of her but didn’t feel she was quite up to snuff with the rest of my fleet as of late. Thanks for chiming in!

I hate to throw up another WIP before my other projects are done but I really could use some advice with this one. She was started as just a side project but took on a life of her own. Because they all can’t be pirate ships and men-of-war I was looking to make a simple merchant cutter. I started tearing apart my old Red Sloop and adding parts left over from other builds. I was aiming for something like THIS. What exactly isn’t right about her continues to elude me, but I can’t ignore that somehow she’s not quite right. Ignore the red decks, I haven’t tiles or plates enough to cover in a better color right now. I’m not fond of the Lego shrouds, though I liked my solution using the bull horns as turn buckles, I may change them to string tied ones later. Before I get to anything so intricate, I need to figure out what’s not quite right with the hull. Can anyone offer any constructive criticisms to help me out with this one? Was Now More Here

I was never satisfied with the windlass on Snake, as stated in my previous post. I decided to tear the old one out and completely rebuild since the one on Narthex went so well. The result looks and works a lot better. The greater diameter will make cranking it easier and more effective. There are also more strokes since there are four slots for bars in each hub. The hubs are 45 degrees off so there is potential for 8 different positions rather than just 4. Though I haven’t devised a way to make “cats paws” to lock the axel from unwinding at this scale, the device will work to hoist a cable.

Just a quick update, I’ve installed a nice, true to scale windlass on my sloop, which also has a name now. Her windlass being one of the last few pieces of equipment she’ll need, HM Sloop Narthex will soon be ready for sea. The windlass is a bit of a compromise, I can only use two bars at 90 degrees at the moment, but it works. Different hubs may change this in the future, but I’ll have to scrounge up the pieces. As it is this was something of a feat. Then name. Narthex is the Greek name for fennel; a plant with yellow flowers used commonly as a spice, but classically was used to transport fire. A tight bundle of the plant will foster a cinder for hours. In mythology it was in a narthex that Prometheus smuggled fire from mount Olympus to mankind, the crime for which he was punished by having his liver perpetually eaten out by birds. The reference in my own lore is to smuggling, as Narthex was a purpose built smuggler captured and bought in to the service.

Just saw this on the front page and had to comment. Though it's far from my usual genre i couldn't ignore this. It's just plane beautiful. Great work!

That is amazing! when i first looked at your post i was ready to dismiss it as just another arrangements of Classic Sets on a tabletop. I was utterly convinced it was plastic in the real world. Fantastic work, especially with the textures a luster on the surfaces. Did you have to model each element as an object or were you able to import from a modeler program? If I knew I could import models as such, I'd definitely have use for it myself. Thanks for sharing!

well then, its just a neat coincidence :)

You wanna stifle that? Just a bit inappropriate don't ya think? (not actually a question ) Derfel, this is a lovely ship. In a lot of ways i actually the like simplicity of this one over the last. It's shame to know her fate ahead of time :) Thanks for sharing.

Someone's a Patrick Obrian fan... A brig named "Sophia"? Although you know Jack's first command was just "Sophie" and coincidentally his wife is Sophia. It's over all a very nice display, but i think my favorite part is that slick lil brig.

You’re having the same trouble everyone is “pinking on” Corweena for. The stern gallery shouldn’t be any wider, in fact narrower, than the widest part of the hull. Your hull has no change, as it’s the same with stem to stern. You’ve also suggested with those triangle plates, that you intend to make it way to deep. The stern gallery does not cover the whole of the cabin, as is often the misconception, but only the rear most potion. Your hull is also overall way too narrow. For one you seem to be using, nominally, the CGH method which typically calls for a widening of the hull pieces with inverted roof tiles. Also to be considered, most carriage mounted guns will recoil their own length and more (farther the bigger the gun) with each shot. Your cannons are 6 studs long and only have 4 between them. It makes it look awkward and would be impossible for your crew to actually work the artillery. It’s strange that at least 3 similar such projects are going on at the same time on this forum, yet there seems to be little communication between their creators. Check out Corweena’s Titan Initiative and the link Perfectionist offered for reference on hull shape, the model pictured is actually Constitution. Check out Skipper’s HMS Reliant who offered his LFX file for consideration. You can see how he used the roof tiles to make the hull wider so his guns and crew have space below deck. I also always suggest brick building your hull, as you can make a more dynamic shape and in a digital environment, especially, there’s nothing to hold back your ambitions. If you like, check out my work, no need to link it’s all linked in my signature. Good luck moving forward and thanks for sharing.

I would just like to submit: Later Ships of the Line, those from the very twilight of the era, often had little to no noticeable curvature for to aft. Take HMS Conway formerly Nile, which survived as a training ship until 1953, when she was ran aground and broke. Something of a rarity since there are quite a few modern photographs, with clear images available. Typically modelers have to make do with drafts and artists interpretations, where a physical example like Victory cannot be referenced. She seems utterly flat and is of similar size and fire power being that she is a 90 gunner of the first rate. Without having to revamp your design you could continue with your cross section and later add on a bow and stern more in style of Nile than Victory. Corweena is developing an attractive method for the sharper kind of bows seen on mid 19th century vessels with his Cerberus, 32, which may be of help if you take this advice. I find your hull construction method similar to my own and it pleases me to see it taking shape. I’ve never yet been able to apply my entire theory to plastic, lacking funds to custom order bricks, so I’m eager to see how yours works out. Thanks for sharing her, and good luck with the project.

Could the title of this topic be changed to ""HMS Scorpion,a WIP"?

Wow! She looks great. Not really far enough alone to criticize, but I’ll defiantly follow your progress with interest.

Apologies Captain Blackmoor, I seem to keep forgetting my default settings on Photobucket are set to 1024. The original post has been appropriately edited.