allanp

I think that despite what I personally would like them to do (mainly new parts as opposed to any particular vehicle/animal/whatever), there might not be anything done for the 40th anniversary. if they do anything it will probably be for the 50th.

Yeah, as I remember not many people were happy with motorised hood and doors whilst leaving out motorising the wheels. I wasn't happy about having a gearbox but not a speed changing transmission. Motorising the doors and the hood are a complete waste of time IMHO.

The tyres are the same outer diameter as 42000 but they are wider and appear to be lower profile, which means a slightly larger diameter and deeper wheel.

Great response

Ah I get it now, thanks

Thanks Nicjasno Not sure what you mean by the 3L bar. In normal operation a 4M axle would be used and those 12t bevels in the picture have a circular hole and a boss, like in this older sketch: For a limited slip diff my idea was to wedge those small white drive belts in between the 20t bevels and the diff case. Put one for a little friction, put one on both 20t bevels for more friction.

Hope it isn't orange.

Best way to prevent that is to supply each valve with it's own one way valve. You can use the ones that were used in the original single acting pneumatics, looked like a 2x4 grey brick with three ports on it. This will prevent the air from flowing the wrong way and emptying the cylinder being used to hold up the boom. Would be great if TLG released a small inline one way valve for this purpose.

I don't think making parts in new colours is enough reason to jack up the price more than 2%. It would be inefficient to drive the car through a gearbox using the currently available gearbox parts. A lot of power is wasted through friction. But if they have made new parts then it could be done very well and efficiently. Also, if this car is to be two wheel drive and with a realistic drive train (not having any gear reduction after the diff) I think a new diff will also be needed. Parts like these would greatly improve the performance and reliability of the car and many future sets to come. having many new parts could be one of many reasons for the high price.

Yup, that explains the concept better than I did.

Would you be scared of the old 9V ungeared motors? They have almost the same mechanical power as an M-motor. Very fast but with very little torque. Once geared down to the same speed as an M-motor you get about the same torque, so they have about the same mechanical output power.

The size of the pistons will probably be about right for this car. In a real car the engine is made to look much bigger by all the other stuff around it like the valves, exhausts, air intakes and so on, so the engine appears much larger than it really is.

I mostly agree with you though I don't think more motors or more powerful motors would help the BWE in particular. But definitely not having so much gearing down done for you in the motor would help. This is Technic, isn't the whole point of it that we should be building the gearing and the mechanics ourselves and not having it done for you in the motor? The XL motor is way too slow and has way too much torque to use it to drive any axle longer than 8M whilst expecting the axle not to twist and spring back causing those jerky movements. Take the gearing out of the motor so it can be built by the customer where it is needed. In the case of the BWE, a little before the gearbox to incorporate the safety clutch and avoid power losses and then a lot at the function to be driven. A good example would be like 8480. I have removed the gearing down entirely from one of my XL motors and it's much more fun and practical to use. I usually have the first stage of reduction done by belts which makes it very quiet and protects the drive train like the white clutch gear does.

price per piece I've haven't really noticed any Technic set be more expensive than it should be because of being licensed. The Arocs and the Unimog at least were both very well priced and even the Technic star wars sets wasn't more than $0.10 per piece. In the Technic line has there ever been any evidence that licencing increases the price by any significant amount?

With those one way pawls being how they are, one can only assume that one knob wheel can only turn clockwise and the other can only turn anti clockwise, and that they are not directly connected. So that moving the up shifter only turns one knob wheel, whilst moving the down shifter only moves the other. The question then is how does one knob wheel turn the output shaft one way whilst the other turns the output shaft the other way whilst at the same time NOT moving the other knob wheel. Each knob wheel would need to connect to the output shaft via a one way clutch.

So it might be like this idea I thought up years ago but with 4 speeds? Still hoping for a more realistic six speed transmission with different sized clutch gears.

If this is fully remote controlled then will this enable gear changes manually as well as by remote, or will gear changing not be remote controlled? If the car is RC then I hope the gear changing can be done via remote also.

The lower yellow knob wheel can't move as described by the blue arrow as it will be stopped by the red catch.

No he's talking about the other orange piece that the axle of the steering wheel either goes through or passes under, depending on the shape/size of the orange piece.

But where are the actual paddles? And still why the colour coded mess for a set aimed at 16+?

I think it's possible they could be parts of a gear change mechanism, maybe controlled by the mechanisms by the steering wheel? I hesitate to say paddles because I don't see what would be the actual gear change paddles.

You mean you didn't have that moment when you read my previous comment?

Or maybe that bevel gear is a drive from the steering rack to the steering wheel.

I am 99% percent certain it won't be done using any gears at all to switch steering modes. It will probably be done by moving the pivot point of a lever so that it changes relative to it's connected lever. So that if the pivot is to the left, it moves one way, if the pivot is in the middle it doesn't move and if the pivot is to the right it moves the opposite way. This way there is not as much slack and it can be changed regardless of the current steering position.

I think I'm gonna remove those tall supports for the rear wing, make the wing smaller and mount it more directly to the back so it isn't so goofy looking. Or just leave it out completely.