ukbajadave

Yep, its mostly Lego City from the last 15 years but I'm certain there's some 70s or 80s stuff in there too (and a whole lot of sweet wrappers, beads and megablocks!)

Nope, its just a giant mixed box of stuff! @Aurore Nailed it!! I wonder if the shark was two poly bags put together.

Evening all, I'm sorting through a big box of old Lego and a couple of bits don't seem familiar. Any help gratefully received Some kind of creator style shark, perhaps a poly bag? Another creature, this time a crab or spider? Last but not least this legless guy and his enormous weapon. Bigger pics should be available on bricksafe LINK HERE Cheers

This is correct, however Powered Up app on my Samsung galaxy requires high accuracy setting to be turned on in addition.

But pins (with or without friction) won't allow you to pull the two box sections apart so that they can rotate?

Here is a floating pin idea. Once the rods are in place they can be locked in with bricks. There is enough slack to hinge the sides and minimal protrusion. As long as this is the bottom row you can make the boxes taller as you need. I originally tried the Pin with bar shown in this photo but as the bar is always central in one of the beam holes there was not enough movement. Also once the chess board is opened a plate across the gap would add some security. Thanks for giving me a fun exercise to occupy my mind

Heres what I achieved after work today Please excuse the crudity of this model, I didn't have time to build it to scale or to paint it... 2L technic beam at bottom pivot point. Very little protrusion underneath. And very tidy once folded. So I extended it to two hinges. This is where it went wrong. Once built up to the level of the beams the hinge became very stiff. Next attempt, a longer beam with the pivot moved inside the box. Same problem with the edge of the boxes catching It seems to me that the pivot wants to be as close to the bottom as possible but this means any hinge stands proud. Moving the hinge inside always leads to one edge catching when rotated. Perhaps what is needed is a floating axle which could sit towards the centre and allow the halves to be pulled apart slightly before folding. I'm thinking even a rod inside a beam hole would allow enough movement?

A potential problem with using the hinge brick and SNOT may be that when the board is open (brick in 2x2 form) the hinge mould extends past the brick edge meaning the chess board will not sit level. This has piqued my interest so I may have a play with stud.io and see what I can come up with, make sure to keep this thread updated with your solution Apologies for not being clearer, the brick allows 180°, I can think of no plate which does. My first thought was simply a plate hinge with two more plates on top to replace a brick.

How big does the chess board need to be? I'm assuming SNOT techniques are no use as you want studs on the board to affix pieces? I'd be looking to use 3 technic beams with the pins parallel to the board in a U shape. No hinge plate I can think of allows 180°

Part 3831 and 3830 any good?

I'm making the leap from PF to PU so it looks like a bit of a learning curve ahead for me

If I want to use the hub and motors from 42099 for a MOC I need the "powered up" app not "control+" right?

I think this should be allowed to enter, it has all the functionality I would expect at this scale A very cute little build which doesn't require any rare parts, I shall be building this one myself. Thanks for the instructions

Daughter wanted an electronic drum kit for Christmas because "She likes to hit things!" We now have a shiny new drum kit that I rather fancy have a go on myself. Can anyone recommend a youtube learn to drum channel? It need to go right back to basics for me like how to hold the sticks and proper placement of the kit etc.. Any advice gratefully received

@MisteryMan How much room do you have? Sariel has some interesting subtractor mechanisms for tracked vehicles HERE and in his Technic book.

Maybe she got the house in the divorce and the campervan belongs to hubby no. 2?

I used RC car aerial tubes for mine. Just a fraction smaller than 3mm but still fits in clips etc. Dead cheap from ebay or ali express (watch those shipping charges though!)

Very interesting idea! I agree that the M motor is less than ideal as with no pin holes at the closed end it is difficult to build rigidly. How far down does the internal motor space go, I wonder if there is room for pin holes at the end?

The best solution I have found is using worm gears. This slows the speed down (increasing torque) and allows fine control.

Of course it would never have reached 50 The calculation was based on circumference of a circle. Anyone can see that my wheel only has 6 sides at 25 studs each for a total of 150 studs or 120cm. Even using the faster output (1053 rpm) the best I could have hoped for was a paltry 75 Km/h (45ish) Also I have no buggy motors.

Maybe offset them so one point is going down as the other comes up? Or perhaps the solution is a periodic inverted catenary path... Once they're spinning at 50 they'll look like circles anyway

My copy of The Unofficial Technic Builders Guide by @Sariel lists the buggy motor specs at 9V as 1053 RPM or 780 RPM depending on inner or outer output. 50 Miles per hour is about 80.5 Kilometres per hour. Divide by 60 to get distance in one minute (to match RPM) gives us 0.83 Miles or 1.341 Kilometres. Divide distance by revolutions gives us circumference of wheel, 127.36 cm or 171.94 cm depending on output used. The circumference gives us the radius (20.27cm or 27.37cm) which we double for a diameter. Then we use Sariels Unit converter to turn it into studs. So using a directly driven axle from the buggy motor to hit 50 MPH you need wheels of approx 50 (inner drive) or 70 (outer drive) stud diameter. Obviously Lego doesn't make a wheel in this size so here is the solution. 4 of these bad boys should see you hitting 50 in no time. As a bonus they are very light weight which will help with acceleration of rotational mass.

Nice use of 19052? on the legs and is that sword a helicopter blade? Black can be a hard colour to photograph as detail gets lost so I had a quick look at flickr to see if there were more pics. "Albert" made me chuckle

This sounds like a great idea and I hope you teach your target Could I charge from a powerbank whilst in operation to increase runtime? If this is successful will you be considering a version for the 88012 technic hub?

RC drift tyres are effectively solid shiny plastic but I used to put off cuts of PVC plumbing pipe over regular wheels. I'm sure you could do the same with Lego wheels.