Hrafn

This is a great iteration of your bikes! The BuWizz is much more integrated into the build here. Looking forward to the video!

Very impressive! I am even more impressed that you managed to build this beast while also managing small kids (and not having them destroy it.).

Try the 1 stud long worm gear and a 20 tooth double bevel tooth. The single stud worm gear does not slide the same way.

None of the images show for me (using Brave on Android).

Awesome, thanks! I had no idea - I had been away from Technic for years and am trying to get caught up on the third party hardware and software developments.

I would also love to have a physical remote. Touch screens just don't work well to control BuWizz (2.0 in my case) powering a buggy motor on Ludicrous speed.

Thank you for sharing this! You definitely packed a lot in there.

The black part under the orange fender is the same part used on the rear wheel arches of the Porsche.

Another vote for bad steering, which is also related to the bad wheel geometry. 13x20 Model Team wheels shouldn't be better in this respect than modern wheels, but they are.

This is great! I live to see models this size - it can be tricky fitting everything in.

The arm and gripper design is great! I have not seen anything quite like it before.

I am building a 15-wide vehicle. This is my prototype for the steering motor and gearing (the rack and pinion etc. are complete but not shown). It uses a PF Medium motor geared 20/12 via two 8z gears and a 16z clutch gear used as an idler. Return to center is done by hockey spring; the bracing for the hockey spring is notional here but I have a solid solution for it (not shown). I am happy with the design overall but had been hoping I could also make the steering wheel rotate with the motor; the steering wheel should go in line with the bar with tow ball, or a stud to the right. I don't think there is room to do this, but maybe you have ideas? The motor can move up to two studs left, or be replaced with a PF Large motor and moved up to one stud left, if that helps. https://bricksafe.com/files/Hrafn/technic-misc/20210822_225243.jpg Edited to add: looks like I need to reinforce the structure - the PF-M tears it apart when powered by a BuWizz on Ludicrous speed.

I generally find the WIP topics more engaging, but I personally have chosen not to do a WIP of my current project partly because the amount of time I have to build varies unpredictably and I don't want to start a WIP topic that languishes.

Welcome! It is getting a little out of date since many useful parts have come out since it was published, but Sariel's "Unofficial Lego Technic Builder's Guide" book covers a lot of fundamentals. I found it very helpful as a newcomer to Technic.

Can you post a few photos of it?

@jwarner, thanks. Try https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=58176&name=Bar with Light Cover (Bulb) / Bionicle Barraki Eye&category=[Bar] instead of the bar with tow ball - I have found it fits much better with the knob wheels in applications like this.

If you do decide to rework the duct, maybe some Bionicle teeth or one of the old panels like https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=47712 would work?

I would be very interested to see how the switching mechanism works! Is the square formed with axle connectors strong enough to withstand the forces on it without pulling apart?

Perhaps the best first line I have read on a post here. How attached are you to using the twisty pole? I take it the pole, fire, and actuating mechanism have to stay inside the dragon when it is not shooting fire? Is this to be a manual or motorized model?

How do you approach optimizing structure? I have a working prototype for a steering subassembly but it needs to be stiffer and I don't know the best way to approach redesigning it. Do you use digital tools? Which ones?

The bodywork here is just great. The front fenders and the hood flow together so nicely at this scale.

Thanks! Right angle gearing is always tricky to brace well - no matter what you do it seems to introduce friction. That said, I wonder if the friction might be reduced by using a 7x11 frame or two like SaperPL did here: Or there is the flat subtractor design at sariel.pl but that uses the old 4L differentials and a stuffed frame, and is even width.

Thanks for sharing! I have noticed the subtractor designs recently and it is good to see them used. It looks much easier to control smoothly than skid steering. As for weight, do you have a rechargeable battery box? Per Philo's site you should be able to shave off 125g by switching to one of those. Can you share a picture of the gearing you used?

Very kind of you to make and share the instructions! It is a fun little build.

Looks good - you really captured the shape of the original. It reminds me of the A-Team van - a few small changes and a recolor are all that would be needed to make that one out of this.