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legoboy3998

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Everything posted by legoboy3998

  1. legoboy3998
    @legoman666, that is why I let someone else do the modifying and just by them off Bricklink. I have bought a custom crossover from Sanders' Bricks on Bricklink. He does great work. I posted pictures in another switch mod post a few days ago on here. They are great quality and you have to look very close to see the are modified. Myself and another member of my lug are looking at buying some more for use at Brickworld Chicago. If he does not have a particular modified switch AVALIABLE on his Bricklink store, just message him. The crossover I wanted he did not have in stock. After contacting him, he had it made within 24hrs and was ready to ship. The nice thing is, I think he has done it so much, he is very proficient at the mods. Check out his splas pages on Bricklink for more info. Sal
  2. legoboy3998
    Sanders' Bricks on Bricklink has done throw rod modifications on switches. https://store.bricklink.com/C0lsanders_?itemID=130278695#/shop?o={"itemType":"P","catID":"128","showHomeItems":0} Sal
  3. legoboy3998
    @B Man, Here is a close up pic of the joints of the crossover I purchased. As you can see, the builder staggered the joints in the rail from the joints in the plastic track. There are additional pics showing the underside on my Flickr. 20180103_145113 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr Sal
  4. legoboy3998
    Soldering should be plenty strong enough for the rails. I purchased a custom 9v crossover on Bricklink, I'll dig it out tomorrow and take some pics of the connections. Sal
  5. legoboy3998
    Just solder the two joints. Sal
  6. legoboy3998
    @Nightfall, nice work! Are those custom stickers on the generators? Sal
  7. legoboy3998
    @zephyr1934, here is the video as promised: Kadee Coupler "Bump Test" by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr. I think it qualifies as bumpy enough, haha. As you can see, the Kadee couplers don't have too much problem with elevation changes, as long as it is not too severe. @coaster, it looks like your coupler design is slightly bigger vertically than the Kadee couplers, I think this will make yours more forgiving of uneven track. One issue with your design might be, the opposing coupler might trip the uncoupling lever of the coupler it is hooked to on very bumpy track. As far as centering issues, I had a thought, if you use a friction technic pin design, that would make it so the coupler would not swivel too freely, there may not need to be any centering spring. I would be interested to test your prototypes when you have some ready, if you would like. I have run LEGO magnets and Kadee couplers in the same train. since both mount to 3176 I simply swap out 3176's with whichever coupler I need already attached. Sal
  8. legoboy3998
    Yes, I have run them on uneven track, it can be problematic if the "bumps" are to extreme. I believe I ran my mostly Kadee coupler train at Brikworld this year. Our layout had a handful of 1-2 brick elevation changes (aiming for 1-2 plates per track section), plus general unevenness due to poor rental banquet tables, but we tried to make those "bumps" as gradual as possible by using shims and spreading it out. I have all my trains packed from doing a show this weekend. When I get around to unpacking it (by this weekend) I'll set up a loop of uneven track and shoot a video. i did a quick calculation. A pack of 2 couplers is $4.55, a pack of 12 bolts is $3.90, a pack of 12 nuts is $3.90 and a pack of 12 washers is $3.75 (you need 2 washers per coupler.). Breaking it all down, it costs about $5.80 per car to install Kadee couplers. @coaster, I would suggest getting a couple pairs of Kadee couplers (one with coil centering springs and one with whisker centering springs). Since they already have solutions for many of the issues discussed above, I think they will offer great insight into what is needed to make your LEGO-ized couplers function as desired. As as a side note. Several years ago, I talked to a Kadee rep at a train show and asked if they would have interest in doing a LEGO compatible coupler. He said a few years prior they had had discussions with some LEGO train fans, and I believe even had a prototype made. But interest from the LEGO train community died. i would love to see what you end up coming up with. It would be nice to have a ready made solution that simply snaps on to LEGO trains. Sal
  9. legoboy3998
    @Daedalus304, I have used Kadee O scale couplers in my LEGO trains (Kadee #806 to be exact). A pack of 2 couplers is about $4.50 plus buying backs of nuts, bolts, and washers (12 each per pack). These couplers "bolt on" to LEGO 2x3 pates modified with technic hole. @coaster, Kadee couplers use centering springs to keep them centered, (coil springs in the O scale couplers I use, and Whisker springs in many HO scale couplers). The coil springs can be a bit of a pain to install, and the whisker springs are built into the coupler shank. The Kadee couplers also use magnetic "trip pins" for "automatic" uncoupling via magnets mounted under the track or can be uncoupled manually using a small pointed object (skewer, pencil, etc). Here are some pictures of the instalation process: https://www.flickr.com/photos/73180761@N02/sets/72157687181305176 Sal WFB, WI
  10. legoboy3998
    @sasbury, how do you do the inverted cheese slopes on the heavy rescue truck? Your fire apparatus MOCs are amazing and an inspiration! Sal WFB, WI
  11. legoboy3998
    Yes, you are correct, you would need to separate the motor wiring from the track pickup in the 9V motor (there are videos and instructions on this elsewhere. $80 is a bit expensive, but it comes with sound, allows you to control multiple lighting effects, and again allows you to run multiple trains with any power source. Some of these features are not possible with LEGO, and it is much smaller than the current PF parts. I plan to install mine into a battery powered locomotive and will post more about it when I do. Sal WFB, WI
  12. legoboy3998
    have a look at this. You will need to use a LEGO 9V wire (or the PF wire with the 9V connector) to wire the control board to pull in the 9V power. I plan on tinkering with this product in the near future. Sal WFB, WI
  13. legoboy3998
    I use Kadee #806 O scale couplers on most of my MOCs. They literally just "bolt on" to standard LEGOS 2x3 plate with hole they should pull well since it relies on an interlocking connection instead of a fmagnetic connection. The only two downsides I have found are 1, they don't like big "bumps" in track, but a steady, gentle incline (1-2 plates per track section) is no problem. 2, the nuts tend to loosen over time and I have had a few occasions where the coupler has fallen off because the nut came off. Not really a huge deal, just have to make sure to check the nuts and bolts periodically. here is the topic where I introduced the couplers: And some pictures showing the assembly process on my flickr. Sal WFB, WI
  14. legoboy3998
    That is correct. Some modelers either use magnets (permanent or electro) mounted strategically under the track to actuate the magnetic trip pin in the couplers to uncouple cars. However, most modelers just use a wooden skewer or pencil to manually open the coupler knuckle to decouple cars. This is acceptable because in the real world train cars are manually decoupled. sal WFB, WI
  15. legoboy3998
    I use O Scale Kadee couplers for my trains. The look and function like real train couplers. The standard way to uncouple them is either manually with a "pick" or with a magnet under the track. They now offer a way to remotely operate their couplers. Info can be found here. Sal WFB, WI
  16. legoboy3998
    I am looking for a source for "flex tube". I know some builders have mentioned finding non LEGO sources, but can't find any reference to where now. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Sal WFB, WI
  17. legoboy3998
    It took me a little longer to co than I planned, but I finally got around to doing some needed coupler assembly and took what picks I could. They, along with descriptions of the process can be found on my flickr.
  18. legoboy3998
    I couldn't find the one I was looking for, but these might work. https://www.walthers.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Mini+connectors Sal WFB, WI
  19. legoboy3998
    I am not sure there are any pre assembled couplers out there. The main reason for the spring is to center the coupler in the box so it will always line up when you want to couple cars. I use a simple tweezers to grab and compress the spring in the middle. I make sure to leave a couple loops on the outside of either side of the tweezers so the spring won't pop off and go flying. It works pretty well, but I keep extra springs I get in a small ziploc bag just in case I loose one. I have a few more couplers I have to assemble. When a I get back home from vacation, I can post pics of how I assemble them. (I realize this doesn't exactly answer your question.) Sal, WFB, WI
  20. legoboy3998
    @codefox421, The only place I see it being an issue in your above track configurations, is the first one with the curve right after the switch. For that, I would suggest what legoman666 did. for the other two issues with the curves in parallel tracks, you can simply use 1 conversion track + 1 half straight on either side of the curve to convert back to 9v track. Sal WFB, WI
  21. legoboy3998
    Looks great as usual LT! It is very highly detailed and recognizable. Do you have more detailed pics of the smaller builds and merchandise? Sal WFB, WI
  22. legoboy3998
    I put this wireless camera into the nose of my 6 wide GP38. I tested it out at a show this past Fall and hope to have it at Brickworld this June. Here are some pictures of it in action. MF16 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr MF9 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr I can take pictures it in the engine if interested. Sal WFB, WI
  23. legoboy3998
    I have contemplated doing more traditional model railroad style scenery with LEGO being used for track, trains, buildings, vehicles, and non organic details like power poles. I had seen pictures on brickshelf.com of someone I think in Germany who did something similar. It intrigued me in part because I think it might be a much more cost effective way to do scenery and save the LEGO for or I portant building. If I am understanding you right, and this is similar to what you are planning, I would be very interested to se in progress and finished pictures. Sal WFB, WI
  24. legoboy3998
    Not sure if you will be able to view this video, but here is a video showing how to remove the printing off a model railroad railcars. http://mrr.trains.com/videos/expert-tips/2009/11/video-how-to-remove-factory-printed-lettering-from-freight-car-models. Use Micro Sol (available at most hobby shops, it is a setting agent for water slide decals). You brush the Micro Sol onto the printing you want to remove. Wait about 5 minutes, and dampen the area with water from a damp cotton swab. Lay clear scotch tabe over the printing, rub it with a toothpick to insure it sticks to all the printing, and peel up the tape. Most of the printing should come with it. You may ned to do it multiple times. When all printing is removed, clean off any remaining Micro Sol with wet cotton swabs and dry. since plastic models are made of similar materials to LEGO, and the printing is also likely similar, this method should not harm the LEGO much. Sal WFB, WI
  25. legoboy3998
    I use Microsoft Paint and Microsoft Word to create my custom stickers, than I print them onto Papilio Inkjet Glossy Photo Film. Because the photo film is white, the biggest challenge is color matching the background bricks. Here are some examples. 20160616_091410 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr 20160616_092312 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr One of my favorites, 20160619_091602 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr Note the Hazmat placard, 20160522_144047 by Sal Ciofani, on Flickr Sal WFB, WI
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