legoboy3998

Thank you both for your help. It took me a minute to realize I needed to be in Extended mode to get it to work, then it worked perfectly. I usually use the regular LDD mode since I buy the parts through PAB, there are already too many bricks that don't exist in PAB in the regular mode so Extended mode isn't much help too me. However, it seems it has some operating features that may be helpfull. Anyway, thanks again this will be a huge helpl. Sal WFB, WI

I have a 1300 piece model of a steam locomotive in LDD (my first attempt at a steam locomotive). I want to order the parts to build it and see if there is anything that needs to be reworked. Is there a way I can repaint the model in LDD easier than going brick by brick? The reason I want to repaint it is so If I need to tweak it I can easily see what parts are new. If not, the alternative would be to use different colored bricks for the new parts. Thanks, Sal WFB, WI

While working on my SOO 1003 Mikado 2-8-2 steam locomotive, I noticed if you lay a headlight brick on its back, than connect a 2x2 flat tile centered horizontally on the now sideways stud, the sideways stud disappears. I didn't even know you could connect a 2x2 round tile this way. Sal WFB, WI

What was to US MSRP for 10219? The LEGO Store in Chicago had 2 for US $119. I was going to buy one because I figured it would be discounted, but it didn't seem to be. (at least not enough for me.) Sal WFB, WI

It's not the volts that kill ya it's the amps. Less than 1 miliamp if memory serves. Generaly speaking, low voltage systems don't convay larger volumes of amps.vs. higher voltage systems. One of my electrical instructors commented the highest voltage she had been shocked by was 480V. Sal WFB, WI

The LEGO Train MOC group on flickr has a similar theory. They have a topic called "idea book," when you click on it there are several sub topics divided into groups. Each group has several sub topics, this makes it easier to locate if there has already been a question asked similar to yours. Doing something similar (if possible) would make it easier to locate info on a specific topic, versus paging through 6 pages for two or three posts about say Big Bens Wheels. Another thing I'll add, that would reduce the need to page through topics or posts in a general topic. Those posting questions can use the search function at the top of the page to see if there is any existing topic or posts pertaining to their question. Sal WFB, WI

A few years back the NMRA convention was here in Milwaukee, WI. It happened to be right when I was first looking into Kunckle couplers, so I stopped by the Kadee booth and talked to their rep. He said a while back they were in talks with some LEGO fans and even came up with a prototype which sounded like it was basicly my design but the coupling plate was molded into the draft gear box. IIRC he said cost wise it would be about the same as the standard couplers (about $3.50 or $3.75 for a pair). However, he said the fans they were in communication with seemed to loose intrest. He said if someone came to them again they would be happy to look into it again, but for now bolting them on (as I did) seemed to be the most cost effective solution. Sounds like, at the time, there was not enough interest to warrant much on the manufacturing end. I'm sure if enough people showed interest, Big Ben Bricks could come up with something, or Kadee could be contacted again. But for now I'm ok with the above method. Hopefully I can come up with a workable realistic truck design to compliment the kuckle couplers. Sal WFB, WI

Yes, mm does "work" here, and is becoming more frequently used, but is still very common (not all rulers have mm on them). As someone who works in the trades, sometimes I think it would be smarter if the US would convert to the Metric system. The English system is not at all easy for doing math. And, yes I could have looked it up, and probably even have it somewhere on my computer. To be honest, I thought BBB's wheels were larger than 5 studs. I was also looking for the stud size of the LEGO drivers. Either way, I knew this would be the best place to get not only the desired measurements, but also expert advice. Thanks again to all who helped. Sal WFB, WI

They were likely made by the same company, (I know there are several manufacturers). The ones I used are made ofr O guage trains. The bump I had was where two folding tables met. It was at least 2 plates, high if not higher, and the tracks made a peak where they connected. I only had the issue once or twice before I was able to correct it, by reducing the severity of the bump a little. On a layout with custom tables, or that was somewhat leveld beforehand, there shouldn't really be a big issue. They seem stronger, I believe I was able to hand pull a 9 car passenger train around a very tight oval (the engine was not strong enough to maintain pull). I don't have a home layout, and haven't really set up a large enough track to really test them out. maybe I'll bring some down with me when I stop by Brickworld Chicago this year, if someone is willing to test them on their layout... Sal WFB, WI

That thing is massive! Looks great. I am a nut for odd machines, especially anything construction or farm, and your design is just awsome. Sal WFB, WI

Yes, it is a GP-38, It is based off LEGO's BNSF version. I am honored you thought it nice enough to use. I also have a MP-15 PFed both on my brickshelf, the E9's are in the Northern Pride folder, and the GP-38 and MP-15 are in the WSOR folder. The secret to both is stickers covering the battery boxes, as mentioned in another thread. I also have a GP-38 with the long hood removed and an EMD 567 on it, it is in my Trainfest2012 folder once approved. Sal WFB, WI

My E9 has 2 motors, I just flipped the front one around and ran the wire through a whole in the front of the base of the locomotive. Works great, no moding. Tthe only issue is having enough wire, my E9 is 42 studs long and I think it reached, if not I just added a PF extesion cable. I haven't tried it in my GP38, but since it is shorter, wire length should not be an issue. I brick build my train bases so adding the hole in the front for the second motors wire is no big issue. Sal WFB, WI

Since I was asked, I... Have you ever wanted more realistic looking couplers on you LEGO trains? I did, after diging around, I found a topic on Lugnet IIRC, which described using Kadee magnetic knukle couplers. So I thought I'd give it a try. Here you can see the installed couplers. The install is pretty straight foreward. First I take a "Coupling Plate" (3x2 plate with hole). Next,I take a #2 Steel washer (Kadee # 1701) and slide it onto a #2-56x1/2" Steel bolt. (Kadee #1709) and slide it though the Coupling plate, than slide a #2 brass washer (Walthers # 947-1273) so it centers the bolt in the hole of the coupling plate. The Kadee washer covers the hole in the Coupling plate while the Walthers washer fits in the hole.) Than I assemble the couler (Kadee #806) following the enclosed instructions. (you need to put the copler in the "draft gear box" and install the "centering spring" than place the cover.) While holding the assembled coupler, I take the coupling plate with bolt and slide the bolt through the screw whole in the couplers draft gear box. Finally slide a second #2 steel washer (Kadee # 1701) and slide it over the bolt, than add a #2-56 steel nut (Kadee #1700) and finger tighten. (Too tight, and the coupler won't center properly.) The only modification to a LEGO piece is to cut a notch in the train wheel holder, and is only needed if you want to have the coupling plate use all of its 2x2 studs to connect. it is actually nice as the notch holds the coupler draft gear box and keeps it from twisting. I am working on a more realistic North American style truck assembly, one of the features of which, will include not having to cut anything to add the kuckle couplers. This past weekend i got my first good test at running trains with these couplers on a decent layout. The only real issue I had was if the track is seveerly uneven (i.e. a literal bump) one car can raise higher than the other causing a coupler to lift out of the other. I also had two couplers fall apart, the nuts came of the bolts, this was likely due to the nuts not being tight enough in the first place. therwise they performed quite well. If you have further questions or anything I'm happy to answer. Sal WFB, WI

Sorry for not responding sooner, I was busy this past weekend at a local train show, (my first ever public display). Yes, the sticker is a great solution IIHO. I don't like to use stickers whenever possible, but it is a necessity. The couplers are quite simple. I will start a thread shortly. Anyway, back to my displaying at the train show, If LEGO wants to sell more train sets, they should set up at trishaws. This summer the first LEGO store opened in my area. While at the train show at least a dozen people asked where they could get and how much LEGO train sets cost. Countless others said they didn't know LEGO made train sets. I also found it neat how many adults were interested (without kids). It was an interesting experience, you can see pics on my Brickshelf (when approved). Sal WFB, WI

Not a problem at all. Lord knows I've used modified versions of many a modlers work, please feel free to use as you wish. As for the digital building, I agree with you totaly. I do most my building in LDD, than order the parts from PAB, as I don't have a huge colleection of useful parts. And, I agree, there are times when you just have to have bricks in front of you to mock up portions of the model. Glad i could heop. Sal WFB, WI

That was the first place I tried. All his measurements are in "mm" which isn't much help to me being in the U. S. That helps a lot. Sounds like Ben's XL drivers will be my best option. Good to know since I got an invite to the LEGO Brick Friday sale thing for VIPs. I was going to by at least one of the Ghost Trains, for the Drivers, but since those are too small, I probably won't be getting it. I still may get it, as it seems to have some useful parts, but I don't seem to need it for the drivers, we'll see how much (if any) it is discounted. Thanks again for all the help. Sal WFB, WI

I'm working on designing my first steam locomotive, a mikado 2-8-2. By my measurements, the drivers should be 5 studs. So my question is, what diameter (in studs)are the LEGO drivers, and the BBB drivers? Thanks in advance, Sal WFB, WI

I have an E9 A-B-A set modeled after the WSOR's, they are 6 wide, and ended up at about 42 studs of couplers (Kadee Knuckel couplers). I started designing with the roof details and it happened out to 42 studs. I found a copy of Model Railroaders Diesel Locomotive Encyclopedia, it shows an overall length of 70' 3". I double checked the scale (6 studs to 10 feet) and that factors to 42 studs. The passenger cars i run are 32 studs over couplers and look short. but to scale them correcly, they would have to be in the area of 55 studs long. That would just require way too much LEGO, and as you suggest, I would thing too long for LEGO curves. You can see my E9's and passenger cars on my brickshelf. Sal WFB, WI

I found the simpler solution is to just you stickers to cover the battery box. using tiles sideways would make stripes harder to line up. Can you find the rechargeable battery box? Sal WFB, WI

Sorry for bumping an old topic... I have always admired your locomotives Cale, such detail; it is hard to tell they are LEGO even. I am beginning to work on a Mikado locomotive, and am wondering if Cale can offer any tips or advice, driver size, boiler/firebox techniques, front end, cab, etc.) I have seen your Chessie boiler instructions on flickr. I will be designing in LDD and purchasing all parts through PAB The particular locomotive I will be modeling is an Alco Mikado the SOO 1003, it has many differences from your model. It is housed in Hartford Wisconsin about a half hour from where I live. It just completed a complete rebuild and painting and turns 100 next year. I had plans to eventually do a model, but since its centennial birthday is next year now is as good a time as any. Here is a good view of the 1003 in action in 2010 http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2283937 Any advice or help you would be willing to offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sal WFB, WI

There's a million to choose from. All depends on what your machine will do... All we have is a bucket and a set of forks, but we have used an auger which is pretty sweet, I've also seen snowplows. Sal WFB, WI

Thinking about it more, our trailer tires are smaller that our truck tires. So I wouldn't go much bigger than what you have or the ones I use. I think what you have looks good. Sal WFB, WI

LT, if you change the tires, I would recommend only going to these: http://www.bricklink...asp?P=30027ac01 They are what I used on all three of my equipment trailers. I have two similar to yours, just longer (big enough for a skidster and Miniex together or a backhoe), and one about as long as yours but with the tires outside the deck the loader sits on. The only thing I don't like about putting the wheels on the outside of the deck, is it makes the trailer real wide. We have both styles at work, so one day I measured, our "small" trailer with the wheels outsid the deck, is wider than our "big" trailer with the wheels underneith. This is similar to our "big" trailer, it is much longer than our skidster. http://www.flickr.co...N03/5442596675/ This is similar to out "Small" trailer, it is just long enough to hold the skidster, and is actually wider than out "big" trailer. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lazybtrailers/6856875493/

I like it LT, looks great. I especially like the rool boc in the cabinet. Sal WFB, WI

Very nice LT. I like the trailer, and the crane attachment. Sure beats wrapping the chain around the bucket. lol. You always do great work. Sal WFB, WI