Zerobricks

Great review witch excellent crispy photos! Can you show a vid of the motorized set?

RC unit has 3 speeds, it works nice.

Gears inside the hubs cannot move away, as the turntables keep them in place. No room for them to go anything.

So I'm faced with two problems. I want to have great grippy tires and i'm a crazy purist. So what i do? I get some green outdoor challenger wheels. Now every mode built was very hard to use with these wheels, as they require complex gearing and bearing system and strong motors. So I decided to use NXT motors this time. But to power NXT motors I needed something stronger than the usual Power Functions. So i once again used the RC unit with a combination of NXT converter cables. Here's the result: There is one NXT motor to power front and two NXT motors to power the rear wheels. The rear motors are placed in trailing type suspension (a first in my trucks. Each wheels has internal 1:3 planetary gear ratio. This means the total gear ratio is..... Yep only 1:3. So you must be asking, why did you use only one motor in front and two at the rear? Well in real world the rear does most of the work, so it seemed logically to use them there. And the steering? I used the RC motor's steering output, which is close and powerfull enough to steer the wheels. Bad side is that there is no front suspension, but the flexible rear amkes up for it. Look from underside.... No fancy visible gears here And a video: So in short... Keep it simple and it works! And to a question is this is better than panther? Its more grippy, but panther is 5x faster, so i love them both

Never used it, because no diff works fine for me Especially in reverse

I once madw an axle witf difflock, that when totally steered turned off lock, but when not steering turned difflock on.

I dont quite agree less weight means less traction. The traction coefficient is same, but the tyres are less loaded and therebye contact patch is smaller with a lighter vehicle. And yes diffs suck offroad, its like you always have 2wd instead of 4wd.

Nice, but what clutch do you mean?

There must be a mistake in the table PF L table, showing bigger mechanical power than electrical?

As a pursit i'm forced to use these: They are the best official Lego tyres, very soft, but very difficult to attach and they are quite heavy.

i think i know what you are building... A trial truck maybe? oddly enough same thing happened to me with mine, there are indeed different hardness of these axels.

Looking at these it seems you could get a higher steering lock on each axle if you would move the whole steering rack half a stud closer to the wheels...

A video might explain:

You havent seen many trial trucks than?

Still using diffs in an offroader INMHO is a bad idea. They may work in ideal situations, but real mud, dust, rocks and grass are not ideal. Closes thing to a perfect mix of maneuverbility and perforamnce I think is using 2 motors, one for each side of the truck's wheels like my Lynx used.

Totally agree, I also dunno are some people really that narrow-minded or just trolling...

I dont understand when he said the new motors wont work with old receiver. Can someone try to replace the new receiver with old one?

Aventador?

Only problem is I dont have the parts or battery boxes for a new one Unless someone wants to buy one...

Yes, they produce more voltage, but are also heavyer, so its not such an easy choice.

I remember something about Lego telling they are making new tyres simillar to 8297 ones some months ago when someone aneted to roder those... They do look differently from inside, hope the rubber is softer, CAN SOMEONE PLEASE COMPARE TO 8297 ONES?

A worm gear silding on an axle between two 8 tooth gears, which are interconnected by 2 16 tooth gears. Simple and compact.

One more question. The tyres, are they same as 8297, rubber hardness, slippingness inisde the rims?

I think we got an new IR receiver with a larger current capacity to power both motors, hence the new ID.

Yeah, why do the noobs always get sets first and dont share the info