Zerobricks

Not bad! Looking good so far. Maybe try making camera a bit more dynamic?

He's a natural! Give him more stuff to build so he can develop his talent further.

Not bad for a combeck MOC! I would reinforce the drivetrian though, where the second pair of 12:20 tooth gears drive the differential. Also add some bracing where tthe worm is spinning so it doesnt push the beams apart.

Wow, thats really something! Awesome use of dishes for rims!

Awesome tree house tower! Nice jail too.

Nice one, quite silly in a good way!

Proboably a driver bug, or you may be running low on VRAM

They look a bit long... Good work none-the-less! Can you share the file?

A suggestion. Use the new mixel joints to give legs and head more movement. Otehr than tthat good work.

Interesting shape and colors! Looks very organic.

Not bad, looks good!

Awesome build! Though a description would be nice...

IMO its more diseirable for part to ignore collisions than have too many of them or in wrong places.

Greetings Ati Nice to see older fans too.

So far so good! Keep us updated!

Nice review! I think the yellow car looks the best of them all. Can you make a video with a drag race with these 4 cars? Would be neat

Yeah the new version was used

You captured the style nicely! Good work.

UPDATE: You can make it even more compact with the new 5L suspension arms: But remember suspension angle here is quite low because U joint and CV joint can rub on the arms. For higher angle you can seperate the arms a stud apart from the Cv joint.

The suspension arm 5L's nose has missmatched geometry which sticks out too far out: Works fine IRL with a gap.

Awesome SNOT usage for the terrain. Nice use of black base to contrast the snow.

I used CV+U jopint, but you can easily use 2 U joints, but remember to shorthen the swing distance of arms to match those of U joints. Steering geometry can be easily adjusted...

You can find more info on Lego offical site: http://powerfunctions.lego.com/en-us/faq/default.aspx Here are my experiences: How do the PF components interact? Power unit / Motors: How many motors / components can you hook-up and draw power from one power unit? As is states on FAQ: As a rule of thumb, you can drive 2 Power Functions XL-Motors, 3 Power Functions Train Motors or 4 Power Functions M-Motors at the same time from one Power Functions Battery Box. The XL-Motor requires about twice as much power as the M-Motor. The power unit is 9V - so if its possible to hook-up 2 motors, each motor will be operating at 1/2 the normal power & speed vs when you hook up just 1 motor? You can do that by either hooking the motors to receivers and setting power level with the train controller (IR speed controller) or hooking up the motor to the LiPo battery box which has adjustable speed dial. How long does the power unit last say if you hook up 1 large motor and let it run until it dies? Dont know depends on the load of the motor, batteries, etc... Probably hours Any other limitations / things I need to know about the power unit? The power unit has cca 800mA current protection, so thats all the power you can get from it Cables / Switches: I noticed there are extension cables and switches you can buy - these are only for convenience purposes? These also allow you to connect older model, most notably RC motors My understanding is the switch allows you to control the power source from another location. Its like an extension and also simple ONE DIRECTION - OFF- OTHER DIRECTION control IR Remote / Receiver: This is the newest part of legos to me (aside from mindstorms) - how do these work exactly? Its an IR receiver which allows you to power the two motor channels independently (blue and red) The IR receiver has 4 channels - does this mean you can have a maximum of 4 IR receivers (and thus control a maximum of 4 motors)? NO, this allows you to control 4 receivers independently one on each own IR channel - therbye indcontrolling 8 motors One IR remote can switch between all 4 channels - is there any reason to get multiple remotes? YES, so you can controll all motors at once Is there ANY reason to get more than 4 IR receivers for the purpose of building ONE custom model?... so having a 5th IR receiver on one model is basically useless?.. please correct me if I'm wrong! Only if you need more power for that function (the Receiver and battery box have current limiters) As far as remotes, I notice there are 2 types: IR Remote Control IR Speed Remote Contros What is the difference between these two remotes?? Are both necessary for someone interested in building various controllable functions into a model? The remote control allows you to control model in real life but with only full power. The speed remote allows you to control the power to the motor in 7 levels and once you set the power the reiver remembers it and the motors keep running at that power untill you send it another instruction for power or speed change. For driving vehicles the IR remote is more usefull, while for trains and continuing running stuff the Spped remote is more suitable Are both remotes V2 and work with the IR receiver (which is also V2)? Yes the work on both receivers My understanding of the two remotes is this: The basic IR Remote controls power source On/Off and rotation direction. The speed IR Remote controls power source On/Off, rotation direction as well as rotation speed (slow,med,fast) Hope this helps you a bit...

The higher the reduction in hubs, the less torque U joint has to carry...

A description would be nice...