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In the corner, you could also do the ubiquitous technicbrick-plate-plate-technicbrick thing (the distance between the holes on the pair of technicbricks is three studs). Huh? Why the but? Captainowie's point still stands, right?

I think wires are the weak spot for PF; I've had loads of L motors and a few M motors become unreliable in a similar way.

It really depends how you define need. If it's for a race, maybe you do. But the fun part is trying to find that balance for your particular application. I think we talked about this before: perfection is an impossible but addictive target. I disagree about the beauty; one of the things I really enjoy is figuring out an elegant and robust build. For instance, I'm really pleased with the construction of my A-team van and find its structural arrangement eye-pleasing; but maybe that's cause I remember the process of building it. And we are back to the impossibility of perfection. Good that you don't give up.

I see a lot of AFOLs building motorised models the way* that Lego builds their sets. Generally I don't think that's ideal; Lego's sets are designed to be easy for kids to put together and are mostly not completely motorised. I'll bring up this classic from way back when: acclime3 by mahjqa, on Flickr You never see Lego build this way to get drive from the tyres to the fake engine. It just isn't necessary for that application. * A simplification, obviously.

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=92099

From the title I was expecting something, ahem, a bit more astronomical.

I think you can improve it a lot. I was always planning to redo this with a counterweight attached to the steering to improve the cornering. Plus at that time, I didn't have buggy motors.

I likey! Maybe try double sets of Unimog tyres? Remember this one? :D

That's great! The 2L half-beam that switches the driving ring introduces some friction to the drivetrain, perhaps you can find another solution? If you could post pictures of it when you're done, that would make my day :) As for your question: The build is dismantled and I'm away from my collection, but I am quite sure my teal flex hoses only came from the set 8482 Cybermaster, which means 7L or 8L are your best bet.

Very nice shaping on the hull. Curious to see how it performs.

Suddenly 9398 is looking like good value.

Would be great to see a video. How is the robustness of the build?

This is excellent, and totally over my head. Great stuff!

How do you know this? Apparently, at this point in time, Lego thinks otherwise. I agree with Horace T; all these propositions need to be more tangible, and also supported by evidence rather than prejudice or plain nostalgia. For all those saying Lego should produce a certain new part; you can actually go and 3D print these parts. . Otherwise, you just look silly, endlessly complaining about a child's toy.

I love that building style you've got going. Colourscheme and bodywork are looking pretty slick too.

Try here: http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/497/un-yellowing-old-bricks/p1

Yeah, seems like I will be asking for a replacement; the contacts and wires seem clean and fine. I think this is the third XL I've had that's gone kaput.

Sorry, I should have clarified, this is a problem with one specific XL. I have others that work fine no matter what receiver is used.

Basically, it only runs off a V1 receiver while there is another PF motor underneath connected to the same channel. Connected directly to the channel, it won't work (it runs fine off a V2 receiver; trouble is, I only have one of those). I'm aware that I could just contact Lego and they'd happily ship me a new one, but I'm curious as to why this happens in the first place. Edit: Seems to work off one V1 receiver (marked 16K1) but not two others (marked 27K0 and 12K7).

Thanks to you both :D I should say that a) the turning circle is larger than the (but this one is ultimately a lot more reliable and user-friendly) and b) that the previous version makes do without a servo.

Step-by-step instructions available here: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjPCnygH

This is a good point, however I think it can be achieved in ways other than with an elaborate, expensive and ecologically wasteful box. I think it's a matter of priorities. Ask most people which they'd prefer; a nicer box or more Lego? In terms of branding/marketing, focusing on the plastic bricks rather than the packaging for it seems to make a lot more sense.

I would not pay. I agree with mechamike. I sometimes stumble across ancient threads, and they tend to be much easier (and more worthwhile) to read. However, I'm not sure what the solution might be; it seems to be the price of popularity - we've seen it happen before (e.g.,: Mocpages). It would appear worthwhile to consider various options to cluster interactions on the forum, to try and maximise the benefits of such a large user base and minimise the drawbacks. Cross posting to multiple sub-fora? Making ranks, tags, post counts, etc private? I dunno. One thing I like about flickr is that it is easy to filter out interactions that aren't of interest to you (through things like limited-access groups and the fact that discussions tend to focus on photos).

I'll just drop these here, in case you find them useful:

Excellent! Very interesting to hear the thought process behind his builds; I like that he uses his failures to come up with something new. "You should just start moving your hands and build..."