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zephyr1934

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Everything posted by zephyr1934

  1. zephyr1934
    Oh wow, I think ColletArrow nailed it, these have the complexity of lego sets but so much nicer detailing. The yellow shunter looks like the engine 5464, with no hint of the PF. The steam train really captures the feel of a British branchline. I like the use of the grilled cheese as steps on the blue shunter. Very well done.
  2. zephyr1934
    I have stickers for Maersk containers and a MOD to the Maersk locomotive to reletter it to be Norfolk Southern (without damaging the existing stickers), but no reproduction stickers for the set at the moment.
  3. zephyr1934
    That is some insane engineering
  4. zephyr1934
    Excellent! (please post video of the doors in action, even better with it slowing to a stop first)
  5. zephyr1934
    Neat catch (and look at all of those discontinued lines on that page)
  6. zephyr1934
    An excellent build! The cars are really great looking. The exterior shot shows interior details through the widows, is there more than what is visible through the window? If so, please post pics.
  7. zephyr1934
    That's looking good!
  8. zephyr1934
    That little thing is insane! There is not an unused spot the whole MOC. Well built!
  9. zephyr1934
    The supersized train is great You really are a G-scaler (grin) Are you kidding? The simpler the better.
  10. zephyr1934
    Looking good, I don't know if I would say the cab details are nothing special, I don't think I've the manifold or throttle bar like that. If you don't like the tender, keep revising. Also, keep in mind that those tiny train wheels on the pilot are not very reliable (e.g., doing this to me, but fortunately it went back together quickly)
  11. zephyr1934
    More impossible angles, excessively gratuitous detailing, I'm starting to think that you must never sleep with the frequency that you produce such wonderful MOCs. The hopper car is also spot on. While simple and direct, the yellow/gray transition on the slope bricks really works well. This time I do have an honest quibble though, while the door handles look really good, they seem much too large for the proportions.
  12. zephyr1934
    That is impressive, great work!
  13. zephyr1934
    Those cars look good in the distance shot, the clearstory roofs are well executed.
  14. zephyr1934
    They're brilliant
  15. zephyr1934
    Lots of great options in that design, the custom switches really help cut down on the wasted space and awkward wiggles of normal lego track. But enjoy being able to have all of your trains down at one time while you can... ... grin. I'm sure you will need either another door or storage boxes soon enough, but that's a good thing.
  16. zephyr1934
    All sorts of difficult angles conquered on this MOC (half plate offset on the side grills?), so many details nailed
  17. zephyr1934
    Adding to this, I would recommend that you only put traction bands on the driven axle. If you have traction bands on non-driven axles you will get more resistance in curves.
  18. zephyr1934
    That is a fantastic build, you simultaneously captured Thomas, while also creating a very realistic looking MOC loaded with all sorts of intricate detailing
  19. zephyr1934
    I just noticed that the caboose walls are all snotted plates, bet it will look amazing in brick and weigh a ton. The internal details are fantastic too, not to mention the locomotive at the top of the thread.
  20. zephyr1934
    My first long cars were about 54 studs long (no idea what the spacing is between the trucks), as seen in the back of this photo. Using 6 studs wide that was proportionally the correct length for the cars. They look good when standing still, but the 7 car long train was never happy in normal lego curves, lots of drag. Runs great on R88 or larger curves (which did not exist at the time I built the train). I originally built the locomotives so that they could accommodate 9v motors, but after my experience with PF on this train, I would never use 9v to power it (prior to converting to SBrick I would frequently trip the thermal resistor on the PF IR receiver, it also helps that there is plenty sufficient room to stuff all of the PF in to one of the locos). So in my second long train I dropped the car length to about 42 studs to improve operation (as seen in the front of the top photo). Runs a lot better on R44 curves, but this train has 8 cars so much of the drag savings is lost to the extra car. Both trains run fine on R44 curves with 2-3 fewer cars. My advice would be to build test flatcars the right length and quantity that you are contemplating for passenger cars in your train, add roughly the amount of weight to each flatcar that you think the passenger car build would be (random plates, preexisting train cars, or whatever is handy), and see if your design runs to your satisfaction.
  21. zephyr1934
    Here is thread 1 and thread 2 that hit my radar.
  22. zephyr1934
    An excellent build made even better, great work. The trucks on that locomotive are incredible (even if they are unchanged from v1.0, full album here). My only quibble is that the Midwest lost such a great builder for the east coast (grin)
  23. zephyr1934
    The new city trains (and most of the post-9v city trains) strike me as being more realistic than the city train offerings between 1995 and 2005 (4559, 4560, 4511). Sure, there is a certain charm of 4559, but not in terms of it's realism, it is almost a Blacktron train. I really like the idea of a detailed Hogwarts Express, that can hit both the train enthusiasts and the HP fans. It would probably have to be normal red due to licensing restrictions, but if it were well done the set in common colors would not keep me from buying it (but it might keep me from buying multiple copies). I had heard from one of the first generation Lego Ambassadors that lego knew that the three axle tender on 10132 could not take the curves, but because of the terms of the license they had to release it with the known problem.
  24. zephyr1934
    Unless you need the extra 1/2 stud offset between wheels you can mount the axles 5 studs apart (or 5 technic holes). The blind driver will run just fine in front of the flange of the flanged driver. Doing so removes the half stud offset problem mentioned above. As your frame is currently, the 1x2 technic brick with two holes will be a weak point, the frame would be much stronger with a long technic 1x brick holding all of the drivers. If you do need the half stud offset, for greater strength I would suggest using the longer technic brick for the axles that are powered. Another point with the current design, you are driving the blind driver. The blind drivers float above the track so you this design would have to transmit the power to the flanged drivers by way of the driving rods. As long as you use a strong enough rod it should work, but you will probably lose some energy that route. If you can re-engineer it to power the flanged driver I think it would run better.
  25. zephyr1934
    There are many incredible builders out there and I continue to steel borrow great ideas from many of them. But the one builder who pretty much sucked me in to this hobby is James Mathis with his designs for the Santa Fe cars. Rumor has it that the trains in Jake McKee's book also originated from James, in any event, Jake was also influential in pulling me in to the hobby by providing examples of the freight counterpart to the passenger cars.
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