zephyr1934

First off, on the original question, for someone starting into trains: PF or PU? Go with whatever is cheapest, so that would probably be PU unless you can find an old PF set complete. If you are just running the set as is, either system will work fine in your house. It is only when you get to large layouts or heavy trains that you start noticing differences in performance. For these latter points, ALMOST everything I can think of has been mentioned already in this thread. Though there is one more point that hasn't been mentioned- wheels. Like the power system, for the sets, the wheels they come with should work fine (possible exceptions are the Maersk train and a pair of Horizon Express sets). I do not want to expand this thread even further with a discussion on wheels, there are already some lengthy (and informative) threads on those in this forum. Just two points to keep in mind: (1) wheels with technic axles cause a lot of friction so try to minimize their use (that's the source of the problem in the Maersk and HE sets), but they are unavoidable if you build steam. (2) If/when you get into large/heavy trains you will probably need to shift to ball bearing wheels from 3rd parties, but that need should not arise when building sets. If/when you find yourself building trains that are larger/heavier than found in the sets then this thread will become invaluable. The PFx brick can be configured with an IR receiver to work with the PF controller That's what I hate about TLG, they build this wildly powerful PU system and then only release minimal documentation for it. Hopefully you are right about the improved documentation.

Another great MOC LT12V! At first glance it looks boxy and square, but that is totally accurate to the prototype (it's as if they designed the real thing to be realized in lego). You did a great job squeezing in all of the electronics while also adding detailing that makes such a small model pop. Now I can't help but noticing but your output of MOCs has slowed in the past few months, are you working on something big?

This sounds amazing (unfortunately for me it will be a while before I have time to try it out though) Such a simple concept and such a valuable addition if you do not like the hood/cab/etc of your loco glowing purple.

Another great build!

That looks really good, great job reproducing it

You might want to remove the "description sign", while it would be there for a production model, it obscures the details of your build and at this scale it might not be obvious that the black sign is separate from the black model behind.

Your build is a vast improvement over the tiny slice of station provided in the set. The removable canopy really adds a lot. Is the middle platform is 9 3/4, while the side platform 9 or 10?

Those look really good. And while you are encouraging folks to support your ideas project, please do support the forums around here with your comments and feedback on other folks threads. Seeing your skills I'm sure you could contribute a lot to the other threads.

Amazing work, but nothing surprising about that. There are a lot of really clever building techniques here, and some nice touches beyond that, e.g., the white wall tires that help make the model pop.

Yes, exactly that. The feature seems right sized (based on the two photos of the prototype that you've shown). Obviously the ultimate choice is what feels best to you. Since you are asking for opinions, here's my thoughts, none of them are perfect. The shallow panel above has an unevenness of the panels with a large gap in the 4 long and a small gap in the 3 long, not to mention the rounded corners that might detract from this variant. The size of the feature in the other four variants seems too large, but I think your first design with the hose is probably my favorite of those four since it gets the curvature in above the bumper. I'm not sure which one I like better between the shallow panel or the hose solution. Regardless, if I were not looking so closely at the original photographs I probably would not notice the imperfect copy What about 2x2 curve slope RIGHT under the windows, then a 1x2 x 1x2 up bracket (with the plate portion studs out and the thin bracket studs down) set one plate back (towards center of the car) from the curved slope so that the end of the bracket is even with the bottom of the curved slope. Then below that cheese bricks that continue the slope profile.

That is a very impressive alternate build.

Those windows would be prismatic glass, which looks like this,

Wow, it looks like you are getting as close as possible to maximizing the inside/outside space. Clever trick building studs down. Though as you say, the strength would have to be investigated IRL. When viewed strictly from the outside I wonder what it would look like to pull the "bump" in 1/2 plate. But to do so would at a minimum complicate the interior, if not completely destroy it. Though if you really liked the effect on the outside perhaps you could bump the rest of the wall out by 1/2 plate. On the other hand, if you wanted to give a nod to "lego" and accentuate the feature, you could replace the panels and instead use door rails for the bump and then use a studs-down cheese brick for the bottom to keep the height the same. This would actually simplify the build too.

Here's a long thread on Bluebrick, it is amazing software. Or cut to the chase and go here to download it. For building in a small space some of the TrixBrix switches might be of help. Bluebrick has a library of TrixBrix parts so you should be able to try any unusual geometry before you buy. Regardless, if you plan to put baseplates below the track that curves and switches will generally not align with the studs on the baseplates. So you will either need to put tiles under these elements or let them be loose above them (my club does the latter). There is also an advantage to just letting your track float (as I do at home) because you can easily close a few stud gap in a non-perfect loop, e.g., Dav1d's example above. If it is semi permanent and kids are playing on it, you might want to screw down a couple of the track segments, since the track will slide a small amount with each time a train passes a curve.

All of the above is excellent information. An ABS spring would be preferred, but I'm sure the design cost of doing so would have been insane to prototype. Having these switches with rubber bands at this price is much better than not having them or having them at a much higher price with some other solution. If it is only a matter of servicing the switches every 20 years to replace the rubber bands that is probably reasonable (hopefully finding the right rubber bands won't be too difficult). In the long run it would be nice to have this information documented on an FAQ on the BT site though. Preferably as a pdf.

Not a problem as long as you don't mind my hair brained ideas. With little time to build myself right now I'm MOCing vicariously (grin). And in that direction, here's another thought, maybe that bumper is just too small to capture accurately in brick at this scale. If so, perhaps it could be captured with a thin, two tone color vinyl to capture light differences on the top and bottom side of the bumper. Regardless, it would be neat to see 4 long or 6 long wall sections in real brick for the leading designs.

You're insane! And I respect you for it. Both are brilliant and I did not see either one coming I was thinking the same- take the idea and simplify the assembly so that it can go back together quickly. It won't be as spectacular but the shock factor will make up for the loss of "millions of little pieces"

You are one for a real challenge, aren't you? (grin) Looking at this picture, I see another possible variant, but it is far from perfect. What about: windows, then a row of nx2 curved slopes studs out (as before) but then a row of tiles on a 45° (or really 135°) slant so that the Toblerone is the side of the tiles and the top of the tiles is the "side of the car" below it. Another thought, why not try mocing it up without the Toblerone? You probably won't like it but it will help your resolve with respect to using the bars or tubing. Finally, if this is going to just be a display piece, maybe making it a little bigger would be okay if it gets the features in a lot better. Without tossing what you've done, you could separately moc up a 4-8 stud long section of the wall to see if a larger size has any promise and if so, do you like it enough to pursue. Another thought, what about: windows, then a row of 2x2 curved slopes studs out (as before), with headlight bricks behind (top) studs down, then 1x2 cheese bricks studs down. The break from the vertical edge of the cheese bricks might give the feel of the Toblerone even though the angle isn't perfect.

That is a deceptively difficult prototype you've chosen, it looks pretty square at first, but no, just about everything has a small curve to it. You've done an impressive job so far with that challenge. Your current solution looks like it would be a great detail on a steam engine, but if I see it correctly on the prototype, it is a bump-out of the side rather than something attached to it, no? If so, what about "studs out" nx2 curved slope above a plate or tile that is "studs down" above a cheese brick that is "studs out"?

That looks really good. Googling photos of the prototype, it looks like those might be Budd cars (presumably built under license or a close copy). As an American it is neat to see them behind a pair of S-class locomotives that could easily be mistaken for E8's. Anyway, looking forward to when you can assemble the entire train.

Yes, amazing +1

If you are moving lighter wagons on level track with a tiny locomotive you might want to try the train motor first. You won't have the speed control, but you might not need it. You could quickly throw together a motor+controller+coupler to test the pulling power and speed to see if it meets what you need. Even if the simple train motor works, it sounds like you want the greater functionality anyway. I'm just tossing it out there because you will have a hard time building smaller than what you can do with a train motor as the base. Anyway, it is an interesting conversation and the insights are helpful.

I haven't tried it running, but generally you have to take the hoods off when you pick up the crocodile and whenever I do I can't help thinking it looks like a box cab locomotive just like that. If I were planning to run it as a box cab I would probably make a few modifications, e.g., extend the center unit a little bit and either get a third set of (non-flange) driver wheels in the middle or a pair of smaller wheels on either end.

Nice use of the panels and removable beds in the sleeper, the roof is great, and I like how you used doors for cabinets/restrooms not at right angles along the aisles

Welcome to Eurobricks, that's an impressive self-introduction. Looking good. I'd be interested in seeing a few more pictures of the cars too.