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zephyr1934

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Everything posted by zephyr1934

  1. Oh, it's standard gauge, never mind... just kidding. Still a great build
  2. You'll need some combination of unusual length track segments, what trixbrix calls "RC1", "RC2" (1 stud and 1.6 stud long I think) and 4 or 8 stud long tracks. I think you essentially need to replicate the geometry of the middle switch in this picture (source here)... or it might be the switch on the right (without the RC2)
  3. On the contrary, it is very helpful. Only one thought, if any of the other threads have greater depth on anything critical, maybe update the first post to include links to them (but only if they have additional helpful info)
  4. Okay, my simple MOD is complete. For those interested, Lot of rods posted here Instructions for MOD posted here
  5. What a lovely little (big) engine. Narrow gauge on standard track. Great build
  6. Amazing work, the detailing is incredible and if you didn't know what to look for you would never know it was lego. I too vote for a few wagons to complete train. Maybe start with flatcar so that a large engine can pull a load consisting of a smaller engine (grin)
  7. Amazing work!
  8. That's some crazy black magic you are messing with there. I still can't completely wrap my head around all of the dynamics (and no, I'm not asking you to try to explain it using small words, ignorance is bliss, as they say). Just one thought, could the red axle in your schematic pull apart? I assume you are not using a technic beam because the spacing is not an integer number of studs, no? If so, I'd suggest a bit of cragle
  9. I'm liking this, very clever working in this build. Thinking further, what would a railroad of that age have done? If this was part of a crack passenger train it would probably have a blunt rear end that continues smoothly into the coaches behind. This has more the feeling of second generation streamliners that were mostly diesels, e.g., a steam punk version of EMD FT or F3... or for the tank engine a BL2 might be more accurate with the bidirectional view. On the mechanical side, the points of articulation in the side rods would likely cause problems. If this were to be built in real bricks a sandwich of 1/2 thickness technic beams would be the best purist solution (and a custom rod non-purist, grin).
  10. That is one prototype that is VERY hard to do well in Lego and you've done a great job with some clever tricks. I like the way you are using 1x panels to hide the parts necessary to support the grand curve. My first thought was stick with dark blue. Ultimately any lego build is a caricature of the prototype, so in my opinion if you don't have a perfect color match accentuating the color helps bring out that part of the character. However, in this case by using dark blue you do mask the beautiful coloring of the two tone pain scheme, so regular blue wins on that count. I think a strong argument could be made either way. Moc it up both ways and see which is better in your eyes. Or if it is strictly a virtual MOC, present both. If it is still a WIP, you can post some non-rendered screen shots of the two variants and get feedback. PS, on a semi-related note, I've always thought the Darlington "Brick Train" of the Malard is just asking to be built in lego (source here)
  11. Yes I will upload instructions for the side rods, I just need to take the photos. But I'm only going to do the simplest MOD, I can explain it here in 5 steps. remove the bars that currently stick out of the cylinders remove the axle pins on the rear two drive wheels insert two 6 long technic axles reinstall wheels, make sure to quarter them add 3/4 pins and 3H9L rods A better mod would be to do a bit of disassembly and redesigning the frame. As built, the axle goes through four technic bricks, for friction sake it would be better to eliminate two of the technic bricks. There is also a technic pin blocking an axle for the front drivers, that could easily be moved. I figure anyone who will be encumbered by that friction will also know how to fix it. The bigger mod to power the locomotive will probably require completely redoing everything under the skin. That would take a bit of work to document, so if I do I'd probably sell those instructions just to cover the required time investment to make the instructions. But if I don't make instructions I can share the key points and most folks in this forum would be able to do the rest.
  12. I must say, I like this set. I built the engine last week with the intent to figure out how to add rods. A very nice little design, I like it, but it also feels smaller than 6 wide (even though it is 8 wide at the cylinders and 6 everywhere else). It is as if the retail Lego trains were O gauge this one feels like S gauge. It has good proportions and I like how they hid the flanges on the drivers. Very good for a set. The cars are meh, and ordinarily I simply wouldn't build them. The station seems very nice for what it is, but I don't have a need for a station like that, so I haven't built it yet. The engine is just so darn cute. Ultimately it stumped me though. Mechanically I could add side and connecting rods but it would require completely changing the proportions. Keeping the length would mean I'd have to move the cylinders out. If it were longer I could keep the rods within the 8 wide of the cylinders. Probably not that hard to do, but it then becomes a MOD rather than simply an improved set. Call me quirky, but I don't want a MOD of this engine, at that point I'd rather MOC something else. I haven't modified it yet, but ultimately I have settled on just adding side rods, which is as simple as it gets (if you don't mind the friction: two axles, a few pins and rods). Without the connecting rods to the cylinder it will wind up looking a bit like James and I'm okay with that. I like the smaller size. In fact I am so taken with it that I am pondering ways to motorize it, but that will be a major MOD that won't happen immediately (and when I do, I'm going to strive to keep the outward appearance the same- keeping the proportions). Of course if I'm happy with it motorized then I'll need to come up with a nice design for cars, and so the rabbit hole begins...
  13. Yes, last year at brickworld Michael had a prototype and said that there was a lot of hand assembly and soldering in these switches. He also quoted a price in the neighborhood of 150 euros per pair (I think I posted something about it either way back in this thread or in my review of the FX curves). We'll find out very soon. Another thing to keep in mind is that I THINK these switches have both directions powered and they do not have a spring function (if you try to run through the points you will derail). These features are divergent from what we are used to, but once the DCC-like functionality is in place they should be very useful
  14. Nice design, I like the way you went for one stud for each seat, I don't think I've seen that before. As for potentially building it in real brick, you are probably going to need to build a few prototypes to test mechanics and clearances. For that stage of design you just need to get the widths, lengths, and wheel placements correct. Color and specific part usage doesn't matter much. If you are only running it at home you can simply test it on your track, if you are likely to show it in public, you might want to add in a more challenging test track, e.g., putting a plate or even a pencil under a rail joint to simulate uneven tables at a public display. A train this size is well beyond the normal lego train motor capacity. You will either need something far more powerful (Buwizz?) or a couple of PU hubs connected together. The technic axles are high friction, which simply increases the challenge. That will likely require several iterations to get working. I suppose the first thing to do with that is to turn to the ball bearing wheel sets that several third parties are now producing (or making your own)
  15. Yet another complex build, with very attractive colors, and of course an impressive recreation of the prototype. Great job!
  16. You have more power than most lego train builders! Great work and amazing photos
  17. Everything is there, a great complete little corner of the world
  18. You've got some great work here
  19. Very nice. I've seen a few technic figure scale trains before but they are uncommon. The size actually makes a lot of sense for narrow gauge, and the nice thing about NG is that many prototypes are only a couple of cars. Keep slowly building.
  20. Looks like a good start The EB photo storage is for things like your avitar image. All of your MOC images should be stored offsite and linked in your EB posts.
  21. Ah, double wedge, I thought it looked familiar. Good review by TBB
  22. That is an amazing build, with lots of little new advances in technique. The color scheme is very striking in lego too. Though I fear you will find yourself longing for matching cars. But it is only your second best MOC of the day... Congratulations!!! Remember to play well and share your Lego (grin)
  23. So I'm catching up on old threads and I KNOW it is bad form to bump old topics but this one is so amazingly over the top that I just can't help myself. That massive layout was built in time before bricklink or PaB (but there were service packs back then). And how on earth did they keep all of that blue track together on uneven ground. Amazing work.
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