Technyk32231

You could use universal joints if you lined up the pivot of the universal joints with the intersection of the links, but that defeats the purpose of the multilink in the first place.

You should make the wishbone pivots closer to the center of the axle, so you can have longer wishbones, which means longer travel and less scrub in a turn.

Angled steering arms are not the correct way to get the steering rack in the right place and width that you want...But even some really good builders do it, like Sheepo in his Mini Cooper.

Oh, in that case, go for it. But cats are really fast... I have 5 of them, and they run away from even my fastest cars. However, one of my dogs barks at them.

Yeah, I know. That doesn't change the fact that it is a very nice gearbox and it inspired me to build my own.

But it's a crawler...

Try making the chassis modular, so you can easily change the wheelbase.

That brush guard is really cool!

Oh, I see

Why is there a missing half shaft in this picture?

Haha, very funny.

I thought you were Ted, or do you just have the same profile pic?

26 rc motors and 48 PP wheels ?!! Your collection is probably worth more than a house!

Strange... looks awesome though.

I know this is kind of a stretch, but you could mount the steering motors in the chassis and accomplish steering via a Pitman arm.

Or, you could have 2 independent steering motors, on two independent channels, and have independent 4 wheel steering.

And that's what inspired me to do this. To be specific, I was inspired by the one he hooked up to Barman's V8 engine.

That picture is massive... The unsprung weight is already pretty large, and you don't really notice the effects of it at these slow speeds. Maybe this will help.http://www.flickr.com/photos/42960909@N06/7878974836/in/photolist-d1eNHJ-dBjjwU

I never really built studfull technic...I have the parts, but by the time I started building MOCs, technic sets were already into the "studless age" Good job though.

I spy the top left one of http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/barman/designs/Technic-parts/Technic-parts/15_bush_with_1_or_2__pin_or_cross_axle.jpg

Steering is transferred through the black 6l link in front of the axle. I think its called a Pitman arm.

Oh, thanks.

Ok, here is a gearbox I made. It was made to be realistic, so it only has two shafts, one for input, the other for output. I had to make two types of gears myself, a 20 tooth clutch gear and a 24 tooth clutch gear. The 24 tooth clutch gear was cut off of an old type differential, and the 20 tooth clutch gear was made by hollowing out the center of a regular 20 tooth double bevel gear, cutting the teeth off of a regular 16 tooth clutch gear, and putting the 16 tooth inside the 20 tooth. The gearbox is a 6 speed + 2 reverse gearbox, so 8 gears total. Really though, it's a 3+R gearbox hooked up to a 2 speed transfer case. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/technyk32/Miscellaneous/Forum/img_20130531_072212.jpg The picture is too large to embed, and sorry for horrible quality, it was taken on my mobile, and gearbox is long disassembled. Maybe sometime I'll rebuild it and take better photos. Here is a car I made a while ago to teat steering and suspension. I lost the shot where it isn't upside down, sorry. These photos were also taken on my mobile. I'll take more pics of the front axle later, the model has already been disassembled, but I kept the front axle for future projects. These photos are also too large, so I'm putting links. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/technyk32/Miscellaneous/Forum/img_20130522_070614.jpg This is a good WIP photo, taken of the first version of the front axle. Later, this axle would lose the shock absorbers and gain improved steering geometry and suspension travel. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/technyk32/Miscellaneous/Forum/img_20130528_071434.jpg This is the new front axle. The vertical 6L link is for suspension. This model has all-round floating solid axle suspension with transverse torsion bars. As you can see, this new front axle has caster angle. I couldn't get the shock absorbers to work correctly, and I wasn't satisfied with the suspension travel, so that's why I switched to torsion bars. It works very nicely. The caster angle is achieved by simply moving the upper links backwards. The front suspension is a triangulated 4 link type, and the rear suspension is a 3 link with a bionicle ball joint. This model has no fake engine, as the main focus of this model was steering and suspension. Plus, the front suspension took up too much room for a fake engine. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/technyk32/Miscellaneous/Forum/img_20130528_071406.jpg Here is the underside shot. The center of the model is held together by the floor and "doors" entirely, forming part of the central body, almost like a unibody construction. Oh, and here is just a strange mechanism I made. As the input rotates, the output "punches" in and out. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/technyk32/Miscellaneous/Forum/img_20130612_072035.jpg

Than what do the lower links connect to. I've been looking at these pictures trying to figure it out...

Not the pins, I mean the black thing that the links attach to also. By tend to bend, I mean do they have a tendency to deform rather than compress? With no upper longitudinal link, it seems as if it would do that.