Peppermint_M

Older megablocks are prone to "sugaring" (my term, edges go lighter, smoother and have a granular quality) at the edges, I haven't had the new ones long enough to test. These blocks also are lighter coloured than Lego. Current bricks have a much more vibrant colouring. Old best-lock, while incompatible with Lego looks just like it did as new. Old Lego looks icky due to UV ageing and "eroded" edges. Sometimes I am guilty of having to double check they aren't clone... Tyco looks as good as new Lego, I have a job telling them apart (minus the logo check). Sluban is of lesser quality to Lego and Tyco, is on par with Mega and better than Best Lock. Best-Lock has a bit of translucency, has a cheaper finish and can spring apart. They certainly look cheaper. I will sort out a comparison shot when it isn't 22:40 GMT.

Well, two boxes + small speakers + some cables + tape and cutting tools = Dock for my Walkman. All the rest get flattened and either used for card or recycled in the less creative cardboard only bin at the recycling center. I haven't enough space for all my Lego! Let alone a pile of cardboard.

I have to say, the only brand to have "translucent" plastic is Best Lock, all the rest would be on a par with Lego, if not for the waxy look to some.

I am eagerly awaiting the TPB or Classy Hardbound of Grant Morrison's Joe the Barbarian miniseries and the Secret Origin of the Legion of Super Heroes. Those two look quite readable. Otherwise its keeping on the lookout for Pluto and counting days until the next chapter of Fullmetal Alchemist. On the webcomic front, the series i read ebb and flow as my interest rises and lowers. It's the transient nature of the 'net.

My friends know, my close friends get bombarded with links whenever I have built a new MOC or created a custom figure. My other friends know it is my hobby and know I buy it. My family all know, certainly. My Mum likes to build City sets and is always pointing out storage options (and nagging me to start sorting so she can help) my Dad knows it is my hobby, he apreciates that a lot of it is an investment and will come to me for opinons on sets and clone brands when my little brother is nagging for some more Lego. My work collegues know it is my hobby, I browse for sets on eBay at lunch, I bought some from a co-worker in another office. They don't care really, two of them are really into body building, another has a marine aquarium and lots of fish, golf, horse riding, windsurfing, shooting, video games and working out at the gym are all hobbies in my office. Building with Lego is a rather normal hobby. It is the Engineers section though... I am an adult now and my hobby is Lego, so there is no reason for shame or concern.

Thanks for adding this to the tutorial index . And thanks Sandy for mentioning hands, I wrote this a bit late and knew I had forgotten something! I have loads and loads of figure parts, they were always a favourite part Lego and it is quite jarring to come across poorly co-ordinated figures on the internet. The can detract from an otherwise good MOC and spoil a good scene.

It'll help with sig-fig making too. Plus with the new collectable figures providing a massive supply of new parts, there is going to be a whole lot more to work with in the world of Lego

As I wandered the highways and byways of the internet, I happened upon eBay, and hoping to pick up some interesting clones I haven’t reviewed yet I searched for things that “fit Lego”. This led me to amazingtoys4all... An eBay business seller of “custom” Lego figures. As I browsed deeper into their shop, all I could think was how these figures were really bad. All using a mix of official parts, aftermarket products and accessories from clone brands. Discussion with some fellow Fellows led to ideas and I decided to share my tips on making cool custom figures without touching those sharpies, gluing a thing or sculpting plastic clay. Step 1: Sort ‘em out! Here is how all my minifig parts that are not being figures are stored. I have a box of “historic” a box of random parts, a box of torsos by arbitrary “themes” a box of legs (printed, coloured hips and solid) and lots of other divisions I decided on as I sorted my collection. If your un-built figures are stored like this, it makes it much easier to make custom figures as and when you want to. Step 2: Purpose What is your figure going to do? Is he/she just a normal citizen going about their business? Are they a knight ready for battle or a Spaceman off to explore? Once you have decided what they are going to do, you can start building. Real people are exempt as you already have a solid idea(more on this later). Step 3: Colour scheme Colour scheme is important, you don’t want them to look odd with non-matching colours or headgear that clashes. Just as you would plan a MOC, the colours of the figure are important. Step 4: Face The face of your figure gives personality, a super angry face would look strange on someone shopping in Legoville (unless there is poor service I suppose) but a calm happy smile on a warrior in battle would also be a bit off. Even with little view of the face, like in the ninja headwrap, face is important. Step 5: The Figure Choose one that fits purpose, sticks to your colour scheme and looks cool. Remember that some printing doesn’t match others, so always use a critical eye when pairing legs and torso, a figure can be ruined by too much going on between top and bottom. Step 6: Accessorise- Armour Not needed for all figures and if it is a full top cover, no need to worry about much beyond colour for the torso. Make sure it stays in colour or is just the right “wrong” colour for the job. Step 7: Accessorise- Headgear Remember your colour scheme? Once again it comes into play with headgear. A helmet or hairpiece looks better when it matches the rest of the figure, or is just the right different colour to the rest. Step 8: Accessorise - Tools Choose a weapon or tool both suited to the person’s role in a scene and to their personality. The warrior maid wouldn’t suit a troll sword would she? And the sniper looks badbrick’d with a rifle like that. Step 9: Accessorise- Accents This is an extra little tip to colour scheme, those little extras that make a figure “pop” really juxtaposed colours on the little details. Match them to the printing or just choose the spectrum opposite of the main colour. It helps to make a figure stand out from a crowd. Step 10: Accessorise – Extras Cyborg arms, peg legs, hook hands. All these features help make a cool figure and all of them at once will make you a space pirate. Keep it cool and for figures like this OTT is the key! Not all figures need these things so don’t add them just for the sake of it. Step 11: The Final Figure By now you have certainly built a figure, I can’t think of anything else possible to add to it. Once it is done, take a long look. Can you improve it? Does it look ok or does it look silly? Most importantly, does it look like you want it to? Real People Get a picture, fire up Bricklink and start matching. I was able to make my friend, known for his love of blue shades, quirky T-shirts and fondness for jeans. I also whipped up a Tommy Cooper, all from a bit of browsing. These are much "easier" to make as you have a clear picture to work from, the hardest part is matching parts! Don’t be afraid to use clone gear or aftermarkets if they provide just what you want but respect those who prefer to keep it “pure” and likewise for purists, respect those who like to use non-Lego. My example figure was made this evening. I decided to make a Goth Guy figure and thus selected a colour scheme (black, black and more black). I found a head that suited the “character” I wished to create and found a torso that worked, a pair of legs with printing that went well with the top and a hairstyle that matched the figure. A minor alteration to turn a jacket into a vest and thus a (hot) Goth Guy figure is created.... I leave you with the remaining thumbnails of figures I decided to photograph, after all, 90% of my built figures are custom created. Take a gander, maybe you’ll get a good idea!

Ahem: The very first Lego brick was the exact same, but shaved off to European measures (Metric, old chap, not Blighty's Imperial measures) no tubes, no little extra lines inside. Just the exact same brick. TLG admitted as much in a 1983 court case (they were suing the pants of Tyco, a brand making very high quality bricks) it wasn't until much later that they developed the brick we know and love today. Check the Lego book (if you have it) and you'll see the patent of all the other sorts of connection they could think of. Not mindless propaganda, just uncomfortable truths. As for the topic at hand: Yo, chekit "Queen of the Clone Brands" chances are I would have the first review up that started off people taking a little look "Just to see" if it was any good. Heh, an eternal quest for comprable brands with a lower price.

I hesitate to add this, but shouldn't we check the east wall for signs of it moving? You know, small gaps where it is sectioned and maybe a way to open it?

Score! I have wanted that Movies actress since I was 12 and my friend got all the Studio sets add in the White ninja and the other lovely ladies, this is a set I will certainly get it

Again, mix and match is makes it much easier than buying complete figures. You can use figure torsos from many themes with solid colour legs and normal faces to make citizens for your city. After all, an aquashark torso with blur legs is just some punky type in jeans and a cool shirt. Don't be afraid of multiples of one figure, if you change their hair colour and maybe their legs you will have a unique citizen. After all, many people wear the same coat or shirt.

It is a boat. I was 13. It was a... something. I am unsure when I made it, I was certainly quite young. I think, judging by the picture, it is when I was below the age of 14, older than 11 and not at the same time as the boat (not enough bricks for both). I have other pictures of older MOCs but I will have to scan them in...

As I built my Milk Float MOC the other day I began to wonder, what width do you build your town vehicles? I have added this handy Poll to find out. I also pondered whether there is room for more than one width of vehicle depending on purpose? After all, a car is smaller than a Land Rover, a Truck is bigger than a car and a bus, lorry or ambulance is bigger than many “regular” vehicles one encounters in the real world. We all know minifigure scale is a pain to scale up to human size and many minifig cars have to be an odd size to their counterparts in real life. Please post your opinions on this matter, tell us how you populate your layouts, what you prefer to MOC and why and anything else in relation to this all. Myself? Regular personal vehicles and motor cars are always going to be 4 wide, but for trucks, vans and other larger vehicles they have to be 6 wide. I like 8 wide for larger HGVs and lorries, after all, they are biggest of all. So how about you? (edit, I can't seem to get the poll to work. So could a helpfull mod add one in. I have no idea where I am going wrong...)

Just keep browsing BL, you can mix and match parts to turn a themed torso into a great civilian figure, with the right heads, legs and accessories you can have any sort of person you can think of.

Thanks. I started making a 6-wide Milk float, but it just didn't look right. The current "stock" is simply all I had to hand at the time. I made the MOC by taking apart a few of the Daily Mirror promotionals, the Imperial Hoth BP and some spares floating in my "fiddly parts that need sorting" box and it would have taken a mere 5 minutes (if it hadn't exploded as I was pushing the roof into place). I hope to make a few more smaller MOCs for a town because I have been on a bit of a building slump and only the City sets have really attracted me of late.

What a wonderful MOC That curling stone is perfect and the figure posing is rather masterful. Although I am not a great follower of any sport I have been catching the curling at times (my father is a fan) and that is really accurate

Why thank you. I now need to seek out some more silver studs and clear cylinders, this was a quick MOC from a pile of parts close to hand. Glad you all like it

Delivering fresh dairy and produce to Lego Town. I decided that 4-wide suited this little vehicle to a t so I ran with it. My milk delivering brother and Town loving Mum both approve. More photos on Brickshelf

8x8 is the best for a vig. 16x16 is my favourite for lager sized scenes.

Ladies and Gentlemen, prepare to whack and be whacked!

Blogged. That is really good , super accurate to the UK.

Go to Bricklink, select the Catalogue tab, click Parts, in the parts menu choose Minifig Head. This opens a massive thumbnailed gallery or list (depending on how you choose to view BL) in the search bar above this list/gallery (but not at the top of the page,this one is under the navigaton bar) you can put in terms like Eyepatch, Beard, Angry etc and have all the heads that match that term. Hope this helps.

Here lies the confusion: A member mentioned in a post that Sluban/Oxford are made in the same place and are the same thing under different names... Is there any truth in this?

Someone has been reading the Traction City quartet (Mortal Engines, Predators Gold, Infernal Devices and A Darkling Plain. All by Phillip Reeve) that is a very good MOC. Thank you for bringing it to our attention