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1nxtmonster

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by 1nxtmonster

  1. I made my "trial truck rhino" to test a very strong chassis. I then made a bodywork of a SUV, loosely modeled after Toyota FJ Cruiser and Toyota 4Runner. The truck has ball joint suspension on front and rear, powered by an Xl motor and steered by an M. I used a normal battery box instead of the LiPo. Overall, You should be able to build it quite easily; there are no "exotic" pieces used. The bodywork is in essence a "shell"; it has a few attatchment points to the chassis, but you can remove it by pulling a few pins. Some more photos: A side perspective: And here you can see the suspension: And finally, the video:
  2. I might try, but I like the acceleration this thing has how it is; adding that gearing might give it more top speed, but it would be hard to achieve this speed without long runway.
  3. Very good point. WIth a body, it will be heavier, and thus slower.
  4. Looks like I win then I think his is still WAYYY cooler than mine though.
  5. It looks about the same in speed, probably because though his has more motors it is way heavier... id love to see what the measured top speed of that beast is though!
  6. I put together a super-fast mini rc chassis. It has buggy motor geared up 20:16 for drive, and servo for steering. Lipo and v2 receiver provide power. It goes a measured 17.5 KPH (11 mph). So I was wondering if anyone built anything faster. Video:
  7. Thank you! Regarding the bodywork, I had a free day so I worked on it, adding rear fender, better cab, and improved coloring. More photos to come with the final video.
  8. \ More photos here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=529038 Be happy! Bodywork is up
  9. Thanks! About the Rc, I had hot flame racer, it had no aux output, so I can't answer that half of your question. The controller isn't proportional. Sorry if I wasn't much help
  10. http://www.1nxtmonster.com My website showcasing most of my MOC's
  11. more gear reduction after the 90 degree bevel gears will take the strain off of them and keep them from slipping. Plus, if you need to add a gear reduction but don't have space in the chassis, the internal gear reduction comes in handy.
  12. Good point guys. I'll keep it in mind when posting future topics. But also, I'll add more and more to this post, eventually the bodywork photos...
  13. Thank you. Sorry, I call a chassis of an offroad vehicle a trial 'truck' and a finished model whatever it's modeled after.
  14. Thank you! It means a lot coming from my favorite builder : )
  15. After my most recent toyota hilux trial buggy build, I wanted to build a simple trial truck that was very strong. My goals were: No gear "grind" in steering or drivetrain Powered by XL motor and steered by M Normal battery box (non-lipo) No special parts so that many people can build The strongest (in my opinion) suspension type is ball-joint with reinforcing link. So I used my ball joint suspension idea with internal gear reduction from last year: Total gear reduction is 3:25 on 1x PFS XL. It has very good suspension and climbing capabilities, as well as meeting all my goals of no gear grind in steering or drive. Video:
  16. The ones provided with the 9398 coupled with a washer to keep the teeth from slipping does amazing. Like what boxerlego did.
  17. Here's one that I made, it is for trial truck and uses the ball joints as pivots:
  18. I just finished doing some more offloading, video should be here soon!
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