Jetro

See my article on the HispaBrick Magazine blog about that. About halfway through I discuss this option: https://www.hispabrickmagazine.com/blog-en/blog-en.php?id=7546

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. We redesigned the website. Links to the blog and magazine sections are now on the left (if you're using a computer) or at the top (on mobile view). If you're seeing the site in Spanish and want English, on a computer you'll see a yellow button to change the language right under the blog and magazine buttons. On mobile view the button is at the bottom of the page. I hope that helps. If you have any further questions or suggestions, please let me know.

I'm sorry to inform you that @GianCann passed away today, as a result of complications after contracting Covid-19 https://www.facebook.com/groups/PoweredUp/permalink/2498381407129982/

yes, and the motors are called Technic motors, but so are the Spike motors. It's a confusing world, and sometimes the best way to make sure everyone understands is using the wrong names ;D

"Angular" means the output shaft is at an angle to the motor block. Linear means the output shaft is in line with the motor block. The Control+ motors are "linear" but their rotation angle can be precisely controlled. The same is true for the Boost motor.

You have a point, but that would also create more confusion. There is a SW set that uses the app and soon the Haunted House app should be added and who knows what else. Naming the Hub "Hub" was pretty stupid: what hub? ah, the "Hub" hub

This is not entirely accurate. Group 3b does have absolute zero. Both group 2 and 3a use the initial position of the motor when the connection to the app is established as zero but don't have absolute zero. As such, I would combine group 2 and 3a as the only difference between these two is the housing (studded in 2, only technic holes in 3a)

It was our pleasure @Antha. We are always excited to work with AFOLs so they can tell their story, especially if they bring something different to the table.

yes I do I've connected 2 remotes to a single hub and this is what happened: The moment the remote goes out of range it starts to power down. Before it goes out of range it starts showing the blinking search colour you see when you start it up over the colour of the connection (e.g. green). Yes, that was the point of my experiment in the blog article. Since the 2nd remote is still in range the hub doesn't lose connection to the network and so the rain motor keeps running. Answered after your first question, but for the sake of completeness, yes, it powers down as soon as it loses connection to all elements in the network If you bring the remote back into range and press the green button it reconnects almost instantly. If you have a 2nd remote you could put it on the train that could go out of range. But you could also "hide" it in the centre of your layout so it never goes out of range of the train hub. I did find a strange behaviour that i had not seen before: I can only use the first remote I connect. The second remote connects to the network and works as a "bridge", but I cannot get the hub to respond to the 2nd remote I add to the network. I have tried connecting the remotes in reverse order and whatever I do, only the 1st one connected will control the other hub(s) in the network.

Maybe not exactly what you are looking for, but you can already create some kind of failsafe behaviour by using multiple remotes - as long as your hub is in reach of at least 1 remote it will continue to function. More information here: https://www.hispabrickmagazine.com/content/2019/06/03/powered-up-ii-powered-up-ii-networks/

BLE became standard with Bluetooth 4.1, but some bluetooth 4.0 devices also have BLE

OK, so here's my first question: why would I pay for an app when there is already a great free alternative available?

@Philo do it with the hub off ;)

@Lok24 no timeline has been provided, just a heads up that this is in process

it's currently in BETA and going through app store's approval process

Looking forward to hearing what you liked best. We're also starting to compile articles for our next issue, so if you want to pitch an idea or proposal send me a PM!

@Tcm0 not at this moment, but the expectation is that it will in a future update

The EV3 doesn't use BLE either, but "standard" Bluetooth.

Yes. An email was sent out to everyone who had pre-ordered SPIKE Prime explaining that the product launch has been delayed to 2020 According to that email: At LEGO Education, we hold ourselves to an exceptionally high standard for quality in everything we do and we want to create the biggest possible impact on the students learning with our products. With that in mind, we’ve decided to adjust the expected launch of SPIKE Prime to early 2020 to ensure the new product meets that high bar.

Bummer! That would be a feature request then. Since @Lok24 says it can be achieved with a raspberry (a link would be cool, pictures even cooler!) could this also be implemented in the W10 program?

Using what software? The Powered Up app won't allow it.

Have you confirmed that? I was under the impression the possibility to update the firmware on the WeDo 2.0 hub made it impossible for that hub to recognise and deal with components that were developed later

Have you updated to the latest version? Stability has improved over time...

You are right in part. The app needs to do the connecting, bit a lot of people se to default to the old way of doing think and try to connect to the hub from the BT config screen of their OS. If that happens there may be a conflict between the OS trying to connect at the same time as the app, resulting in interference which makes it difficult or even impossible to successfully pair the hub with the app. I've seen this happen in so many cases it has become a kind of "have you turned it off and on again" kind of mantra.

I am confused. You can write a python program but can't check the BT connection on your Windows computer Just open your BT connections from the configuration panel and check if the hub is listed (probably with its MAC address). Right click and choose forget device.