Haddock51

Thank you @baard for this interesting proposal! Amazing how many suggestions that have come up so far on a "simple" topic like switch modification ... I think your idea with the technic gear rack could be feasable. However, I need to better understand this construction and how it works. Could you provide additional pictures showing this construction dismantled? How is the technic gear rack linked to the lever inside the switch? Where and to what is the lowered shaft on the right side leading? Is it electrically operated? If I choose to operate this switch manually using a technic gear rack together with a throw lever, how can I be/make sure that the switch is fixed in the selected positions? The inside lever is spring loaded (see @Toasties input from last thursday), would that mechanism still work?

Fixed. @Toastie The blade I use is the same blade for manual jigsaws. Very thin indeed. For more technical details visit: https://www.conrad.de/de/p/proxxon-micromot-ds-230-e-dekupiersaege-85-w-saegeblattlaenge-130-mm-816320.html I guess the main advantage with this jigsaw is the fact that - unlike with a Dremel - the blade is mounted which guarantees straight cutting lines. In addition, the cutting depth is almost unlimited which is an advantage when you modify points. When it comes to gluing, I use Zap-a-gap, a superior and fast drying glue.

@sed6 To be honest, to remove the yellow throw lever to me is not a solution, rather a walk over. Remove and move back everytime you want to access/exit this siding - no way! My philosophy is quite simple: This LEGO Train 9V Extreme layout has to work for all my trains, including the VT 11.5. This extreme train - and particularly the nose overhang - has already resulted in more than 20 hours of layout modifications, primarily w.r.t. polycarbonate railings. but also some changes of the track layout (which I partially anticipated when I decided to build this train). In comparison, the discussed modification of this point to me is a piece of cake ... And a much more satisfying solution for a LEGO train AFOL...

@Toastie I will most likely go for your "20 minute time frame" modification that you posted last thursday. Your proposal seems to be good enough for this particular purpose. Hopefully I can do it before the four months summer Lego break starts at the end of May .... By the way - talking about modification tools - several years ago, I decided to invest in a Proxxon Micromot DS 230/E jigsaw. To me, this saw has proven the best precision tool for LEGO track and switch modifications, far better than thin Dremel cutting blades and the like.

Thanks @Toastie for your suggestion. I don't think I will proceed with "switch electrification" in this case, for several reasons. As you can see on the (new) picture above, the actual switch leads into a siding that in the future will no longer be used as a ramp for train shelves - as it is today - which means that the lever will be switched just occasionally. I don't expect any problems w.r.t. the overhang on the inside at the end of this curve. The distance between the pivot points on the coaches is 34 studs, i.e. the same as on the green vintage coaches together with the crocodile (see first sequence in LEGO Train 9V Extreme Part 2 "Passenger Trains Compilation").

Thank you all for your valuable comments and suggestions. So far, I have modified some 50 straight 9V tracks (1/2 and 3/4 straight) and some 30 9V points (halfcurves and crossovers). But this modification will be different because it touches the "heart" of the point. Yes, I will give it a try (which will certainly take more than 20 minutes...) The challenge in my case is the significant overhang of the VT 11.5 nose on the outside of curves. (The distance between the front bogie pivot point and the nose front is 12 studs!). For more details see the following topic: Normally I would have inserted a straight track between the end of the curve and the point to avoid the VT 11.5 nose hitting the lever. However, due to limited space and layout support constructions, this option is not available in this case. Therefore, the only remaining alternative is to move the lever to the opposite side of the point.

At Brickworld 2011 in Chicago, OnDrew J. Hartigan made an interesting presentation about various types of modifications of standard LEGO tracks and switches (9V and RC). The following picture shows a modified switch with the switch throw on the opposite side to provide clearance for 8-wide and Longer rail cars. Unfortunately - and unlike most of the other modifications presented - there are no details on how to proceed. (According to Hartigan, this modification takes only 20 minutes). Can somebody provide details on how to proceed with this particular modification? (Copyright OnDrew J. Hartigan 2008 - 2011)

Thank you all for your kind comments. Much appreciated. As already mentionned, my VT 11.5 is a slightly modified 9V version of @HoMas original released last fall: Therefore, I would like to share these comments with HoMa and congratulate him once again for his fantastic MOC. Just go for it!

Watch and enjoy! If trains made in Lego are your passion, I promise you will see many, both in action, on sidings and on shelves! If you want to learn more about this track, please visit my topic "Lego Train 9V Extreme - ready!":

This is the latest contribution to my Lego train collection: another Trans Europ Express (TEE) VT 11.5, this one 7-wide and 2.5 m long. (Still remember when I visited the railway stations in Basel as a young guy and admired these legendary trains with their monstrous locomotives). This train with four 9V engines is a (slightly modified) copy of @HoMas original that was launched last fall. The length of locomotives and coaches is 52 resp. 48 studs. (The significant overhang of the noses resulted in extensive modifications of the 9V Extreme track, particularly w.r.t. polycarbonate railings). Even this train is equipped with PF LED (powered by two 9V batteries) for the front and end lights. Button cell powered mini LED string lights are used for interior lighting in each coach with the benefit of no cables between the coaches. The TEE VT 11.5 project has been my most challenging, complex (and most expensive …) Lego train project so far. The result however is simply breathtaking and magnificent! What a magic experience to watch this train in action! Extreme coping with extreme …. And what an exciting and instructive journey it has been to build this iconic train – the crown jewel of my train collection! A big thanks to Selander and HoMa for all advice and help! And a big praise to HoMa for his incredible MOC, one of the most beautiful and most spectacular trains ever built in Lego. Big Brother and Little Brother ... (Copyright Ulrich Budde) And this is how the train looks like in reality. (The VT 11.5 was actually awarded a gold medal at the Expo 58 in Brussels “for outstanding technology”!)

Well, my stock of 9V motors today consists of 155 units ... Yes, it has become more and more difficult to buy these motors (I only buy new ones). And most of those available in North America won't be shipped to Europé.

In november 2017 I released my first Lego Train 9V Extreme video with the Swedish Iron Ore Train and the Dm3 (link at the end of my first post in this topic). High time for Part 2: Passenger Trains Compilation! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47CqLOQKGLM&t=10s

A couple of years ago, I acquired this beautiful TEE Rheingold MOC from Selander who built it. This version is equipped with two 9V engines I just love TEE trains and this is one of my favourites. Well done, Selander!

Having seen this extraordinary and legendary TEE IRL as a young boy, I was almost shocked when I saw your absolutely fantastic version in Lego. Goosebumps all over. It's hard to add more comments in addition to what has been said so far. To me, this version of the VT 11.5 TEE is second to no other MOC I have ever seen. Congratulations, Holger! Unfortunately, this train is too large for my 9V Extreme track so I have to keep dreaming and stick to my smaller version..

I agree, that should work. And a ratio 5:1 is still quite ok.

This is primarily a matter of proportionality. The ratio between width and length is typically 1:6 (primarily 6-wide), 1:7, 1:8 or even 1:9 in some cases. To go for 8-width with a length of 28 - 32 studs would be equal to ratios of 1:3,5 - 1:4. For those who put high priority on proportionality - i.e. scale fidelity - these ratios would look disproportional (too short). Well I guess everybody has his/her preferences ....

The comments are extracts from Holgers book. As for myself, I will definitely go for 7-wide with a maximum length of 46 studs. This is the limit for my 9V Extreme layout. Using 9V motors, weight and reasonable speed are certainly no issues in my case. Neither are standard R40 curves, standard- and crossover switches. The only structures close to my tracks I need to consider are safety fences in polycarbonate. Some of them are adjusted after the test runs with the Vintage Train. My biggest problem at this point in time seems to be the colour schemes. I was not aware that the windows are not available in dark blue.

According to Märklin, the blue steam engine is Series IVh of the Grossherzogliche Badische Staatseisenbahn, Bauart 2'C1'h4v. These steam engines were built starting 1918. W.r.t. to width and scale, I very much share Holger Matthes comments in his Lego Trains Book (see pages 75 - 79) on 6-, 7- and 8-wide scales: With 8-wide, you can achieve better scale fidelity than 6- and 7-wide. However, the extra width has a corresponding disadvantage, i.e. extra length (typically at least 50 studs long). Despite the extra length, 7- and 8-wide coaches have the same number of axles, so each axle on an 8-wide train holds more weight which can lead to problems for Lego train motors (in particular PF, my comment) to move all this weight at a reasonable speed, especially around curves and through switches. And the overhang problem is even worse with 8-wide trains than it is for 7-wide trains, risking collisions with buildings and other lineside features close to the track. Normal train wheels look small on 8-wide trains and spoil the overall impression of the model due to their disproportional scale. Using the larger spoked wheels from steam engines is not a convincing solution.

I would like to have a look at your Pullmans. Interesting to see how you solved the challenge with oval windows.

ElectroDiva, you just made an excellent choice. This indeed is a very beautiful train with many challenges, particularly if you look at it from a Lego perspective. These pictures I found in a special edition "125 Jahre Orient-Express" of the Eisenbahn Journal (2/2008): The steam engines on this picture are Baureihe 01. W.r.t. to your considerations: I will build Holger Matthes BR 10 steam locomotive sometimes this fall. As a result, I will have an EN locomotive left that I will use for the Orient Express, at least to start with. On the last page of this journal, I found the following Märklin advertisement showing a steam locomotive in blue: I will most likely go for both colour schemes, entirely dark blue and dark blue with cream. I guess the colour combinations are related to different types of coaches. Yes, I will also go for custom printed decals. Search in Wikipedia for "Compagnie Internationale des Wagons Lits" and you will find some excellent picrtures for the logo which is very typical. And then there is this long text "COMPAGNIE INTERNATIONALE DES WAGONS LITS ET DES GRANDS TRAINS EUROPÉENS". That will be a challenge .... About the scale. When building Holger Matthes Vintage train, I learned that 7 studs is an almost perfect - however somewhat tricky - size for trains. It allows you a decent level of details and a good proportionality when it comes to width and wheels. And finally the windows! Have a look at this beautuful picture:

Please do so we can start exchanging ideas and pictures

Holy smoke! I am planning to build the same train later this year! What are your ideas so far w.r.t. locomotive, coaches (windows!), colours, stickers etc.?

I built the Be 6/8 in Reddish Brown. To solve the colour problem with the finger joint hinges, I ordered them in Brown and moved them "inwards" 1 stud, thereby hiding them. On the outside, I used plates 1x2 in Reddish Brown. So there is no visible colour or design difference. One more advice: When running the Crocodile through standard R40 curves, you notice that the locomotive does not move smoothly. This is because the outer studs on the front parts of the body get in touch with the other two sections, thereby creating some friction between wheels and rails. To avoid this problem I replaced the plates on the front parts with tiles and now, the Be 6/8 runs smootthly through curves without any problems.

@HoMa and @Lexa, this looks absolutely fantastic and spectacular!! Goose bumps all over again ... So I have decided to build this fabulous steam engine later this year. Holger, by the way, do you also provide the stickers that are visible on your BR 10? PS: TLG, this is what so many of us AFOLs have been waiting for a long time ....

Please post pictures!