fresko

Jim, I know the Site Guidelines and their restrictions about age. An AFOL is an Adult Fan Of Lego, or someone who love to build/play with Lego on a higher, mature level. A TFOL or Teen Fan Of Lego is 14-17 years old AND who build/play with Lego on the same mature level, but who can't name himself an AFOL just because of his age. In fact, there are some TFOL's who are way better than some AFOL's. I think it's even a greater preformance to make such creations at lower age. Besides that, the Site guidelines describe: "which for the purpose of these guidelines are people of around the age of 18 or greater." [sorry for the Off-Topic] Very nice creation, Thor! I really like the white body. Fresko

To paint = dipingere LA= linear actuator or Black = "Nero" or Hope you understand it now...

I know that, I just mean IF this creation would fly with ONLY original Lego pieces, it seems there are better lego blades than the 9396 :)

Sariel: I think it couldn't be the blades of the 9396, regarding the size of the frame. So, if this creation could fly, without modifications, it would be different blades, which seems better. Also, doesn't that rubber tip add more weigth instead of helping to lift off?

Hi all! I know it had been a long time since I made this MOC, but I finally got some time to improve it and make pictures and a video. As promised, I drew the excavator in LDraw. I also started to make High Quality instructions, but my computer won't start MLCAD anymore (I got a new computer since a few weeks). That's why I publish the MOC with only 3 building steps. The Boom is somewhat improved, the movement is much bigger. I did also some minor changes to the superstructure, which looks a bit better now. Anyway: here are some images (More in my Brickshelf folder) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8o-RgylW77c Here is the 3D file: LDR and LXF. I hope I'm not to late for the competition. [i'll add the rebrickable link when it's available] Fresko

Hi all! I'll sumbit my alternate 42004 excavator soon as possible, once I got some time. It are busy days, and making the instructions is more difficult then I tought. Anyway, here is a WIP where that I have been developed for a long time, after my Red Mini excavator. I tought it could be motorized better, or rather remote controlled better at that scale. And we all know: Remote control at small scale = (m)LA instead of pneumatics. Building in 3 or 4 motorized valves isn't feasible in a 12 studs wide space. In the first place I just wanted to do some small changes to my Red Mini Excavator, and 'converse' it into a full motorized version. It turns out quickly the 'superstructure' of that excavator wasn't a good base. It has the same functions as the ultimate 8043, or as many other motorized excavators. -Driving (2 M-motors) -Boom raising and lowering (1 M-motor, 2 mLA) -2nd Section of the boom (1 M-motor, 1 mLA) -3th Section of the boom (1 M-motor, 1 mLA) -Turning (1 M-motor, with worm, gear ratio 1/46,6) As battery box I first tought about the rechargeable Battery Box, but it turned out it was to big. Instead of that one, I used the smaller 9V Battery Box (with the aluminium foil trick for powering the receivers). I hope it will last a little while and it won't run out fast. History: The first thing I did, from the 'conversion' of the prevoious excavator was changing the pneumatic cylinders to mLA's. In the first case I used a single mLA for the raising and lowering of the boom. Later I replaced it with 2 mLA's for a more realistic look. To motorize those functions I had to chose between M-motors or Mini motors . I was in doubt because I tought M-motors are a bit long (6 studs), while Mini motors are only 4 studs long. On the other hand Mini motors are 4 studs wide, while the M-motors are only 3 studs wide. I was afraid the excavator would be too long, because the behind the motors would I need to place the battery box and receivers, which toke about 8-9 studs. I made the decision to use M-motors, to simplyfy the design of the side bodywork. Because I had to place 3 receivers, 1 battery box and 3 motors in the superstructure, the most logical choise was to place the turning motor in the undercarriage. It seems the receivers and their cables sometimes block the turntable, which has 'dramatic consequenses': the undercarriage is pulled apart, trought the worm screw. What I still need to do: -The boom (color, firmness, 3th section) -The weight distribution of the superstructure (so it doesn't 'hang over') -A cabine (at the right scale - any suggestions?) -The turning system (especially the wormscrew) -Give the backside of the excavator a more realistic look (eventually with lights) And to end... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsyRDvk1JaA If you have any suggestions, questions or comments, don't hesitate to say! Fresko (more images in my Brickshelf folder, when made public)

Thanks for the nice comments! I'll try to improve the 3th section of the boom, once I got some time. Also the steering needs some rework. Tomorrow is it my last exam, after that I'll also make Hi-Quality instrucions (PDF via MLCAD) Greets, Fresko

I think the rear tyre is too wide and flat. Probably the chassis would be 'straight' and wouldn't 'bend over' while trying to turn. Greets, Fresko

Hi all! [Edit: I'll post a video and real photos later] I got some time and I made a 42004 alternate for the Rebrickable December Competition. It is a small, wheeled excavator, which is slightly based on the 8419 (like the main boom mecanism) My first intention was to keep a bucket and to give it an use (not as decoration). An excavator looks me the most common application for a bucket. I used the small bucket because I think it has the right size. I used all gears -as gears -. The features: -Steering (HoG) -Main boom raising and lowering (Worm) -2nd and 3th section movement (Worm) -Extra movement of the bucket (Manual) -Turning (Turntable) The body is a bit unfinished, but with not any leftover beam, I couldn't get it looks better. For me, just as for many other Technic builders, functionality is more important than looks. For it size and the available parts, I think it's pretty good. I had only 10 unused parts, of which 8 pins. What do you think of it, and do you have any suggestions to improve it? Greets, Fresko

You could use an Wedge Belt and connect the wheel with an axle. But you probably tought about that already.

I think it's important to buy a lot of (large) sets when you start with Lego. Parts as beams, gears pins, etc comes with dozen in a (large) set. And they are always usefull. When you got a nice collection, you can start buying individual pieces. That's how I see it

I like this idea!

I place this link, just for normal PC users. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92293857@N05/ It's a bit 'annoying' to look at the photos on a non-mobile device, while your links are from the mobile website. They are small, and you can't inspect the models good. Anyway, good creation, and as said by Horace, the last one is the best.

He is much more active on his Youtube account, maybe you could contact him that way;

It looks nice, in real (on BrickMania Antwerp) it looks even better. Especially the back lights, as seen here, looks very finished: Maybe you could upload a vid showing the speed of this MOC? I think the RC motor make it really fast. Did you use the V2 receiver or the V1? Only remark: I think you could give a better final touch to the front side panels. The 2 x 4 plate doesn't look very fluence, while the rest of the body does. You could try to leave the orange direction light and just attach a 2 x 4 yellow tile. +1 what z3_2drive said (Hope you don't mind I deeplinked some photo's ) Fresko

Well, I got presumption: I made a MOC where I used the servomotor as steering motor (trick via auxilaury plug with aluminium foil) Probably I (or rather the box) pressed the wrong button once too long, while my remote layed in a box and I was testing my MOC. Fresko

I sent you a PM

Do you mean to power them at the same time with the same batteries?

On the other side of the H-bridge (if I understand you well ), there are 2 2SA1357. So the small PCB contains 4 transistors (far as I can see), 2x 2SC3420 and 2x 2SA1357 The 2SC3420 are npn indeed, ther 2SA1357 are pnp's. I just don't know which details in the Datasheet have to match with a replacement, with other words: If I don't find a 2SC3420, with which transistor I could replace them? Have the VCBO, VCES, VCEO, ICP, TJ and so on to match exactly or may they hav(e)(n't) an higher/lower value? Fresko

Thanks to all! I have searched for replacement parts that I could order in Europe, but it seems it won't be easy to find it. Probaly because I'm not really familiar with those things. I find some good (web)stores, but they mostly have the 2SA1357 but don't have the 2SC3420, which is the most important. Does someone know which component I could use as replacement, or rather: which details are the most important? Of course I know I may not use a component with a lower Max Voltage or current. Greets, Fresko

Correction: The transistor number is C3420

Here are some photos: 1, 2, 3. I couldn't make them more clear. I noticed one of the transistors is deformed: it looks like there is something melted inside and it show a 'knob' on the outside. Something like this. The code on the transistor is O3420 , but when I googled it, I didn't found much information. Does someone knows with which type of transistor I can replace the faulty one? @Horace T: Like I said above, meanwhile I bought a Supersonic RC, so I got a working RC Unit. But if I could repair this one for a low price, I got 2 working RC Units. Fresko

I'll place some photo's tomorrow. @clarkdef: Is there a way I can test the transistors? With a multimeter or something else? Fresko

Hi all! My RC Unit broke a couple of weeks ago, after mulitple malfunctioning problems. I bought it about 4 months ago (mid July) on Bricklink, and it worked perfect when I received it. I just had to clean up the battery compartment: some batteries of the previous owner leaked. I buildt some MOC's with it during the summer (I didn't use it intensively), until school started in September again. Like everybody knows, school/work=less time for hobby. During a period of 3-4 weeks, it layed on my Lego worktable (with batteries). I got some time, and I builded a MOC with it. When I wanted to try it out, it turned that the 'gas'-button (the left) of the remote didn't work porperly, in forward direction. Sometimes it just worked (I could drive forward and backwards), other times (mostly) it doesn't (I could only drive backwards, with sometimes a 'shock' in forward direction). When you went from 'backwards' to 'forward' the motors were braked. When you went leased the lever from 'backwards' to 'neutral', the motors were coast. The auxilaury plug worked fine. I tried to change the batteries (remote AND receiver), switched to other channels, tested with other motors (also not the 5292), another remote (my remote works perfect, I tested it with the RC unit of a friend), etc. When I was trying to find the cause of the problem, by trying to drive forward, it suddenly started to smoke. I immediantly removed the batteries and let it cool down. I tried again if it works, but it has still the same problems, with the exception that it doesn't drive, in any case in the 'forward' direction (of course I know I could just turn the cables 180° to drive forward, but then I couldn't drive backwards) AND if you press the 'forward' button long enough, the motors will turn with little shocks in the 'backwards' direction. It can be noted better when we attach a multimeter on the ouput, it sometime give some weird, very short tensions in the opposite direction. Moreover, the motors weren't braked anymore, they just coasted when you went from 'backwards' to 'forward'. I sent an email to Lego, and of course they doesn't sent replacements anymore. So, I screwed it open and I noticed the cables are melted a bit (both: the auxilaury plug AND the 'normal' plug), but I think that can't be the cause, because in the opposite direction everything works fine. Meanwhile, I bought a 'new' second hand Supersonic RC, but I'm still wondering if I could repair this unit? Are there any electronic experts on this forum? Kind regards, Fresko

+1, Tibivi ;p It was a very nice weekend!