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legoman666

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by legoman666

  1. legoman666
    I would love to see a whole train of these zipping along on a smooth curve. I'd like to build a few too, but I have a couple other items in the to-build list that take priority. Good job.
  2. legoman666
    I just started modifying mine to run off of 24VDC track. It zips along so quickly that anything over 4/7 on the speed makes it derail on turns. I'd like to make it 7 wide, but that would require a complete rebuild because of the use of train bases. Only 2 passenger cars in the video, but I have 6 total + 2 locomotives when I normally run.
  3. legoman666
    Awesome. Can you post a video? Would love to see it running.
  4. legoman666
    This is my second attempt for which I used my reflow gun. The first I used my iron, which doesn't look nearly as pretty. Still working through some firmware bugs, I can pair my phone with it, but am still unable to control motors correctly.
  5. legoman666
    Pretty cool, but I'd be worried about the low hanging bits on locomotives getting caught on the pieces in between the rails. It looks like they stick up about 1 plate height.
  6. legoman666
    Or some sort of magnetic connector similar to the Apple laptop chargers might be good. Id be interested in something like this too.
  7. legoman666
    It's on the train itself.
  8. legoman666
    Our club uses both PF and 9V components to make a hybrid system. Our tracks are energized to 24VDC using industrial power supplies I get from work and we use hollow 9V motors or custom metal wheels to pick up the power from the track. The 24V feeds a DC-DC converter that supplies a constant 10VDC to the IR receivers (which I am hoping to replace with bluetooth controllers). The great thing about the DC-DC converters is that they output a constant voltage no matter what. So the track voltage can sag significantly without issue and the trains take turns with minimal decrease in speed. And by using a 75W 24V power supply, we get away from the crappy 9V 400mA wall warts that Lego supplies. We can also run multiple trains on the same track. It's kind of like DCC. Some of our trains have a battery system too that works in tandem with the power from the track. When track power is lost (say on ME Models wide radius plastic turns), the batteries provide power to the DC-DC converter instead. Quite a robust system, although initial investment in each locomotive is high.
  9. legoman666
    Still the same, no graphics, only checkboxes. Does it matter that I'm not actually paired with any BT devices at the moment? And are you sure that Android doesn't support BT4.0? My Nexus 5 has a BT4.0 chip: http://www.gsmarena.com/lg_nexus_5-5705.php
  10. legoman666
    Want to make one of these for my dad for a late father's day gift. Some of those green pieces are really rare.... Will take months to get them all from BL.
  11. legoman666
    I get a null pointer exception when I try to import an .lxf from LDD 4.3
  12. legoman666
    Essentially a Lego multiplexor, neat.
  13. legoman666
    I got mine from here: http://r.ebay.com/lAut0p He also had a listing for a master version instead of slave.
  14. legoman666
    The momentary controller only shows the 2 check boxes :( The phone is a Nexus 5 running stock 4.4.3. My guess is screen resolution, my phone is 1080p. I already have everything except the PCB itself, so you can imagine I'm getting antsy :)
  15. legoman666
    Thanks! My PCB's was sent off to the fab on the 20th, should have it back around the beginning of July. Can't wait! One of them is going to be in Horizon Express: http://youtu.be/j4vRp05qUuQ In the video, it's zipping around at 10V with a V1.1 IR receiver (temporarily using the electronics car from my freight train). I'll bump it up a little more to 10.8 when I get the BT controller up and running. The app is missing the background image on the controller screen:
  16. legoman666
    Do you have a prebuilt version of the android app? I'd like to avoid installing the SDK.
  17. legoman666
    Correct. I tried tying both outputs of a single IR receiver together but ran in to problems. Even now, with 2 separate receivers tied together, the PWM waveforms interact weirdly at anything other than 100%. The train will run for about 5 seconds and then it'll start to stutter. I will probably tie both outputs of the DRV8833 chip together as you recommended. The datasheet even lists this as a supported configuration and gives yields a full 2x the current output of a single channel (3-4A total). Also, you were correct in your suspicion of running in to the current limiting thermal fuse in the AA battery packs (there are 2 in my train). I opened up the packs soldered in a wire to bypass the fuse. The rechargeable batteries I use are good for more than the fuse allowed. Is there a way to program the android app to tell the controller to slowly come to a stop when you press stop? Pressing stop makes my train derail; there's a lot of momentum behind the locomotive (16' long). Looks like the DRV8833 chips supports it, I guess I'll have to delve in to the code myself once I get everything working initially. Edit: looks like I can just link the two inputs on the driver together to get my desired effect. No need to change the code.
  18. legoman666
    Excellent. Looks like the same maximum voltage applies to this custom controller as the regular LEGO controller. The chip with the lowest maximum is the driver itself. I'll run it at the max: 10.8VDC ;) Now if only I had a controller with 2 drivers in parallel.... I have a train with 4L's that could benefit from something like that. Right now I just use 2 IR receivers in parallel, but the PWM causes them to do funny things at any speed other than maximum.
  19. legoman666
    I ordered everything listed x 4, except for the board itself, I ordered a set of 3. Minus the cost of the programmer, everything was pretty cheap. About $15 per board. The driver chip has thermal overload protection and current limited output, right?
  20. legoman666
    Where are you sourcing the BT chip from? Everything else is on Digikey. The only one I see is this: http://www.digikey.c...99-1-ND/2813585 and it's $15, which seems pricy. Edit: Will this work? http://www.ebay.com/...=item338382f705 It's slaved. Same seller has a listing for master too. Also, do you have a programmer you recommend? There seem to be a ton of choices...
  21. legoman666
    Awesome, I'll give it a shot soon.
  22. legoman666
    I would happily buy a few of the blank boards from you. I have a solder rework station at work I can use and I can order the chips myself. PM me if you're willing.
  23. legoman666
    That is awesome. I was never able to get my 2 XL powered locomotive to slow down either. Rather than bog down the motors, it broke one of the axles.
  24. legoman666
    Peroxide will clean the rust off and brighten up the plastic at the same time.
  25. legoman666
    When you get the backer survey, you're given the option of purchasing narrow gauge connectors. They're $1 per set of 4. I got 10 sets.
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