legoman666

Sorry, this should work: https://www.shapeways.com/model/3021348 Will do.

I ordered a pair of these in stainless steel. I haven't received them yet, but I will report back when I do. https://www.shapeways.com/model/3021348?materialId=23&li=ostatus They weren't cheap.

What I think is odd is that according to the stock levels on the ME Models website, I can fulfill my original pledge with plenty to spare, yet I have not received shipping notification or any product yet.

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4515 4 of these will do it with some tiles in the middle of the rails.

Put flame stickers on it.

Excellent! I eagerly await their arrival. Been looking forward to receiving them for many months now.

I was the second or third backer and am kind of curious why my order hasn't shipped yet. In what order are you fulfilling shipments?

Nicely done on the cab windows.

Codefox421's Bluetooth controller can do that. It is by far the best way to control trains.

I added several ounces of solder to my narrow gauge train driving tender. Didn't take up a lot of space and it helped a ton.

So it's safe to assume that if I didn't get an email today that my track did not ship today? Bummer.

Did the people whose orders shipped receive an email?

You're going to want as much weight on those driving wheels as possible. Will your 3 axle locomotive take the turns?

Love the curved nose. Nicely done

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=870250246331574&id=126935137329759&comment_id=870288446327754&offset=0&total_comments=3&notif_t=feed_comment&ref=m_notif

Your bogie is going to catch on switches.

I use a modified version of the bogie in the railbricks magazine. No problems on turns with stock lego wheels. The 1x1 bricks /w 1 stud that are connected via their top stud to the center of a 2 x 6 plate like to pop out though. It's especially a problem on older 2x6 plates. How much weight do you have over the boiges? Also, the amount of internal friction could cause the entire bogie to want to spin rather than rotate the wheels. Try putting a drop of oil in the axle holes.

I'm working on this one too. Lots of modifications need to be done to keep the price down for me.

With the top off: And from the bottom:

You are right on all points, of course and these are some of the things I struggled with. However, those horizontal tiles hide the AA battery pack that's mounted vertically. I'll post a pic of the bottom and from above with the top off. My Canadian National Dash 9 has the AA battery box horizontal, so I was able to use vertical 1x8 black tile to hide it. 1x8 tiles don't exist in orange (also, couldn't do the yellow stripe). To be honest, I forgot about the air tanks, lol. Not sure if I can color match them to my fuel tank (metallic silver)... My other 2 loco's have them. (As you can tell, I make these things up as I go along :) The only planning I did was to check the part selection in orange before deciding to build this.) As for the color scheme, I couldn't decide. I already had these old decals and didn't feel like buying new ones. However, apparently there are some ES44AC's out there with the scheme I used. See: http://www.rrpicture...e.aspx?id=32646 The physical differences between the AC and DC are so subtle they'd be almost impossible to render with Lego. I researched for several hours and submerged myself in train nerd forums to find out. So technically, I could call it a ES44AC even though I used photos of the ES44DC to build it. As for the windshield, I'd be more happy with a way to match the slopes on the hood. I have some ideas to slope the windshield on my next build. Brick built trucks are pretty easy to build and allow for much more intricate designs than plain PF train motors. (Also, PF train motors are awful for constant speeds. Large PF motors are awesome). The hard part is putting a stud spacing inbetween each axle; makes it necessary to make the middle axle slide. Thanks all! Thinking of an AC4400 with the new CSX paint scheme in dark blue as my next project.

4xls will be overkill. My 2x L locomotives can pull 16' of heavy 7 wide rolling stock.

Hello Eurobricks. My latest build. Wheels will be replaced with steel ones as soon as I can find someone to machine them for me. Unit is powered the same way as my other two most recent builds. AA battery pack that feeds a DC-DC converter to keep the custom Bluetooth controller happy with 10.8V. BT controller feeds 2 large PF motors, 1 for each truck. Once my wheels arrive, they'll be pulling 24V from the track to the DC-DC converter as well. As long as the battery voltage is lower than that of the track, the batteries will not be utilized. There are a couple missing pieces because a brick link seller is taking his precious time getting my order together (>2 weeks at this point), but it is otherwise complete for the most part. The real thing. These rear grills were especially tricky on this build due to the part selection in orange. I made do, however. The real thing. Realized after taking this photo that the last step is missing. The other 3 sets are all complete, oops. Pretty happy with how they turned out. The fleet so far. There are also 2 Norfolk Southern SD70M-2's not pictured. Thinking of rebuilding them. And a short video of the 3 synced together. Each is independently controlled.

They sell 1000 pack of bands at store like Michaels and Hobby Lobby that were intended to be used for making bracelets. Just so happens that they're the perfect size for train wheels. They're like $2 for the whole bag and help traction a lot. I've got a light locomotive that uses them and it can pull a 16ft train.

Love it. Nice to see a train that isn't black or gray. I've been trying to make locomotives that are other colors myself.