legoman666

Plenty of traction, haven't had it slip yet. I did have to remove the stock rubber bands from the middle unpowered wheels on each bogie. On uneven track sections, they take most of the weight of the train and would make the wheels slip. The decals are O scale trains bought from eBay. Thanks every one! I'll put a video up when I get back from traveling.

Here's the original: http://www.eurobrick...topic=87572&hl= When the PF Large motor became available on shop@home, I knew it'd be perfect for my new build; a second Norfolk Southern EMD SD70M-2 to compliment my first. But this time I wanted it to be powered. The external of each is as identical as possible. There are a few differences due to the necessity of covering the sides of the motors with snot and making the thing strong enough that 4 L motors didn't tear it apart. The 4 motors are all connected together. 2 of them spin the opposite direction of the other 2. I completely rebuilt this part of the locomotive 4-5 times, each time making it stronger. The version in this photo is actually 1 version behind what's actually in the final product (but I forgot to take a photo). The only thing it has problems with is going over switches. The track in the middle of the switches causes the gearboxes on the bogies to bottom out. I think I'm going to have to sand the gearboxes down.... (shhh, don't tell) The sides of the loco are all 1x2x2 and 1x4x3 panels to allow the wires from the motor bottoms to all go above. The motor bases are 4 wide whereas the tops are 3 and the middles are sloped from 3 to 4. Very tricky to cover. I used http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=30413 snotted on "Hinge Plate 1 x 6 with 2 and 3 Fingers On Ends" to cover the transition. Next to its twin. All it needs is the decals.... The only problem I have is that it uses so much power! For the longest time I thought the L motors were awful, but it turns out that a single 9V train regulator wasn't enough to feed all 4. I connected another one in parallel and now it can pull my long, heavy rolling stock through switches and 180 degree curves without slowing down. I can't use a single IR receiver either; it can't provide the needed current and my rechargeable batteries in my battery boxes are 1.2V each rather than 1.5. Luckily, my LUG uses old 9V train motors with the motors removed to pick up 9-12V from the rails to power the motors directly (or power an IR receiver). Unfortunately, this means I can't really use it at home, because all of my track is plastic.

Just put the supports upside down instead of facing up.

Several months I asked them on their Facebook page and they said to keep waiting. My LUG president is apparently in contact with them and is supposed to receive some of the first batches for our train display soon. We've been building train cars that can't handle the official radius in anticipation.

My reply when I had customer service look in to this for me. "Dear Andrew, Thank you for patiently waiting for my reply. I received an answer in regards to the lattice part that you saw in the picture on the Seriousplay.com website. Unfortunately, the picture is not up to date and the lattice piece is not included in the set. There will be new photos of the set put up shortly. Please reply to this email letting me know if you are still interested in receiving this order or if you would like me to cancel it. I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this has caused you. However, we greatly appreciate you bringing this to our attention." I canceled my order.

I ordered one. We'll see if they're actually in there. Also, the description of the kit says there's 10 identical kits, so it's possible there are 10, not just 6.

No, I mean http://shop.lego.com/en-US/Power-Functions-L-Motor-88003

Just ordered 4. Never seem them available before, how long have they been for sale? Also, the part number of the orderable motors doesn't match the older ones from the large Technic sets, but they look identical to my eye.

Correct. The old ones have the straight guide, the new ones are bent. The old ones cause my triple axle bogies to derail, the new ones work perfectly. I made the thread to figure out why there were two versions. I didn't realize that the old 9V switches are also straight.

You must be right. The part numbers are indeed the same, as is the style and location in which it's embossed. There are additional small differences between the two version if you look more closely.

The little guide on the right. On the top point, it's perfectly straight, on the bottom, it has a small angle in it to grab the wheels. The top track derails my locomotives that have a 6 wheel bogie about 50% of the time.

The one on bottom works great, the one on top causes my trains to derail.

I managed to fit the battery box, 2 PF train motors and a polarity switch all in the lead locomotive on my HE. No issues with derailing. Decoupling was an issue until I put a 1 x 2 tile on the magnets. I myself have 3 copies of the set, two of which I bought immediately upon release, and a third I picked up from Craigslist for almost nothing. So my Horizon Express has 6 carriages and 2 locos and then I have an extra loco lying around in my train yard. Awesome set, easily on par with the Emerald Knight for detail/build quality. I wish they released more creator train sets.

Thanks, I used a 2x2 turntable brick to attach the bogies.

Thanks guys! I want to make a second one just like it. Powered would be best, but there isn't room to hide the battery box because the body is only 5 wide, and I don't think I can match the triple wheel base. I'll probably end up powering one of the cars... Any suggestions on how to get the slants on the front end better? Nothing I tried looked even close so I just made it flat.

Just finished putting on the decals today. The cab is 7 wide, the main body is 5, the bogies are 6. I'm especially proud of the cab windows, I think I got them just right. The only thing I'm not happy with is the front of the locomotive; I couldn't duplicate all of the slopes of the real thing. My inspiration:

I motorized the booster unit. Each truck is powered by an XL motor. The only non-Lego "part" is a couple drops of 3-1 oil. I managed to cram in 2 XL motors, the big AA battery box and the infrared receiver all inside without too many changes to my original design. The only thing I had to redo was the method by which I did the SNOT on the round arch windows. I also finished another passenger dining car. The motors and batteries were originally going to be in this car, but I couldn't build a small enough truck that was strong enough to withstand an XL motor and push my heavy train. During my trials, I had to resort to a lot of SNOT trickery to do this and it ended up not working anyway, but I kept the SNOT since I spent so long on it. Inside are many passengers enjoying coffee and other adult beverages. The kitchen area was mostly pilfered from my Horizon Express with some minor modifications. I still need to add the lamps on the right hand side of the car. Someone clean up this mess....

Train windows in light gray will bankrupt you :P Looks great, take a look into snotting the front.

Great work! Very accurate. May I suggest using the battle droid torso for the greebling above the wheels? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=30375&colorID=67&in=A Would look good in black or metallic silver.

I tried my hands at an observation car too. Not 100% pleased. It's too big and busy. http://imgur.com/yW7onJJ,3tw5kbX,q2dq0ui

Still working on this: Planning on adding at least two more cars. Just finished rough draft of the first passenger car. No interior yet, missing a few pieces, etc.

Every other forum I've used in the past 8 years or so automatically resizes large images. I expected this one to too.

I was going to comment that it'd look better in 8 wide, but the rest of the set is 6, so it'd look out of place alone as 8. Look pretty decent. Maybe change more of the bricks on the sides to 1 x 2 Modified /w grille: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2877 to give it more texture and put some clear 1 x 2 plates in the upper roof to fill it out.

http://i.imgur.com/7807jPJ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CQd7lw7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/yBQDMUr.jpg http://i.imgur.com/E0Q2HeZ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QPVnyJr.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WB88ewc.jpg http://www.flickr.co...tags/excelsior/ I got the inspiration to make this MOC after playing with brick built road plates and realizing that I could embed a straight brick built streetcar track. I searched for an old style streetcar to build and came across the Excelsior trolley. I got some inspiration from this guy: http://www.lugnet.co...c/trolleysEXCEL mainly the fences as gates and the general shape of the front and rear, but I mostly relied on photos of the actual thing. I got 4 1 x 2 x 3 red train windows coming to replace the brick I have next to the doors, but other than that I'm done. My request for suggestions is in regards of the roof. I don't like the ends of mine. The slope corners I used don't match the slope of the rest of the roof. Are there any better looking options? As you can barely see in one of the photos, the side roof is straight, but the ends are curved. Is there a curved radius piece that'd fit my 8 wide roof? I also think I built the whole thing a little too tall, but it shouldn't be a big deal to decrease the height by a brick or so. Ideas?