legoman666

Link no longer works, thread has been deleted or something. Did anyone save the images or have a link to another site that has some?

The last 6 I've ordered have been v1.1 and I don't want to order any until I'm certain that they will be v2. Any one who ordered some recently care to comment?

That's the one I was thinking of too.

http://www.bricklink...Item.asp?P=6585 ? I've tried to do in the past. Almost impossible, but there's a nice narrow gauge bogie out there that can be adapted to 6W. I can;t find it at the moment... it's entirely technic though.

Looks good. Only thing missing to my eye is the ladders to the cab door.

I modified mine last night. Not super happy with the length of the crankshaft piece (or its clutch strength), but otherwise looks okay. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaJxYwdGhJ8 Works well in any case.

Lol, thought so ;) I have no problem with small cheats if Lego doesn't provide a viable alternative (train wheels, rods, batteries, wires, etc). I'll try the piston crankshaft piece, maybe I can cut it down some....

Here's my freight train I keep adding to. I want to build another box car in reddish brown (but damn that roof was expensive to build like that) and one in dark red (but I can't make it identical in dark red :( due to the doors). Alongside my Horizon Express with 6 passenger cars. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08DiAIAHmyg

How did he get those pins on to the standard technic train wheels? I've been trying to get some working steam rods on my mini train with no luck. I wonder if he cheated...

I've ordered about 6 IR receivers in the past year, 1 or 2 at a time. The most recent batch was about 2 months ago. They are all v1. The v2 has an issue where using 2 M motors on the same output doesn't work. They won't start because their capacitance is too high for the new driver chip. 2 Ms work fine on v1 though. There's supposed to be a new version of the M motor coming out, but I don't know if it ever happened.

New one can output 3x the current. It's only in 2 big technic sets but it's supposed to be released on Shop@home. Some day.

It's from 5 years ago, bro.

Thanks! I was trying to figure out how the hell to fit the AAA PF battery box in when I remembered the old 9V box existed. I know the battery won't last long, so I bought some rechargeables. Haha, thanks. Good ear. The model I more or less based my locomotive off of. Alas, it's not even authentic, but it was doable ;)

Yep, my EMD uses 4 L motors in 1 locomotive. Lots of power. And in my past builds I've put 2 XL motors in a booster, 1 XL in a steam train, 1 M in a trolley, and 1 M in a mining train. Very easy to do once you get a good bogie design down. Only problem is fitting the rest of the PF components in too!

They could make a 3 battery that uses a buck boost converter.

Thanks! I will admit that I replaced the stock friction bands with something better. I also had to solder an old 9V lead on to the IR receiver because the PF extension cable is wired weirdly.

Hi all! This build is for my LUGs next show in April. I might still make a few small changes between now and then, but for the most part it's done. In all its glory Custom Narrow gauge curve built from old 12/4.5 curved track. It can also run on the narrow gauge track from Indian Jones and The Lone Ranger (which is a tighter radius). Inside the powered cart. Motor is in the second cart. The third cart has the IR receiver and the last car has a 9V battery box. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6P5lmRiPXFM In motion. My narrow gauge track is a little short....

I am working on a little mining train MOC and was having a hard time fitting the PF AAA battery box in. It's too big! I spent hours messing with it before I remembered the 9v battery box. The 9v box is the perfect size.

If you put a couple of gears on the dummy bogie on the Horizon Express and use a technic axle for the pivot instead of the bogie plate, you'll be half way there already. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgoO45Xq-yU

We have a Maersk train we use on our Lug displays. It has 6 stock Lego flatbed cars being pulled by 2 locomotives with 3 pf train motors total. Those flatbeds have so much drag around curves that the train almost slows down to a stop. So I designed this locomotive with the goal of being able to power through anything. At the moment there are 2 locomotives, 3 autoracks, 2 coal hoppers and a boxcar. I just ordered the parts to build a couple tank cars. I'd also like to make a few flatbeds. I'll keep adding cars until either the train runs into itself or it can no longer take the turns. Thanks! I don't think they should complain. The outputs are protected, and anyway, add you say, they are replaceable ;) It's similar to tying the outputs of multiple 9v train regulators together. The only weird thing that happens with these IR receivers is that the pwm frequencies are slightly different. It creates weird sounds when running at anything other than full speed. I'd describe it as kind of like a warbling.... Very odd

No problem! 2 AA battery boxes. Each powers a single IR receiver. The IR receivers are on the same channel and their outputs are tied together to a single 9V extension cable that powers all 4 L motors.

Thanks! Lots of torque in a fairly small package. Re gear slippage, not since I redesigned the transmission the last time. It used to push itself apart. The only time I've had trouble since is when I crashed the train. The motors were still on but the wheels weren't able to spin. Rather than stall, they pushed the whole gear assembly out of place. Lots of engineering problems emerge with this much torque....

I ran in to that problem with some of my new style magnets. The last car on a train came detached on a layout at a show and the rest of the train collided in to it on its way back around. It happened on a bridge. The train derailed, knocked over the bridge and caused the other train to derail too. Big mess, fun times.

Thanks! I ran it on battery this evening. I filled one of my autoracks with 2 AA battery boxes and 2 IR receivers in parallel. Runs good, just not as fast as with the 9V regulator because my 6 rechargeables are 7.2V instead of 9. If I remember, I'll bring home some sandpaper tomorrow and fix my gearboxes so they don't drag on the switches. Then it'll actually make it around my loop without help.