Boxerlego

@Dluders: Thanks! That sound like something I could maybe attempt, I have a propeller that are 170mm tip to tip in size. Something could be done to them to connect up with out any separation. Answers: 1) With out the magnets, the motor runs at a moderate temperature and gets warm with prolong use just like any motor. With the neodymium magnet on the motor I suppose that it would get warmer slightly faster and run a little warmer. 2) I've had these magnets for a couple of years now. It cost me somewhere around $4-$5 for 10 neodymium magnets. 3) No. Nothing was done to the PF Battery Box. I thought about using a DC adapter to power the motor but I don't have one at 9v. Hi chorlton, Thanks for the very interesting suggestions and thoughts. The bar magnet looks good and strong to use if you have a long motor considering that the polarity of the bar is on the top and bottom and not end to end like a conventional bar magnet. I think they would work great on the motor. The case would haft to be modified slightly to allow the bar magnets to stick out with the motor. I want to say that having the magnets closer to the motors armature produces the better torque and RPM. As the distance between the armature and magnet expands it reduces the magnets effect on the torque and RPM. The motor has a north pole magnet on the right side and a south pole magnet on the left side (180degrees). The motor is small, 25mm from left to right to be exact, and the motor magnets come very close together in the center,roughly 8mm apart, so the motor magnets are not completely surrounding the armature like you see in the XL motor. The neodymium magnet are placed on the motor like this, the motors north pole magnet has the neodymium north pole magnet facing to the motor on top and on bottom and the motors south pole magnet has neodymium south pole magnet facing to the motor on top and on bottom. Basically the neodymium magnets are adding to the already presented magnet field that is in the motor.The neodymium magnets sit slightly behind the magnets in the motor due to the compact design. The magnet don't sit directly over the armature. I've tested a number of possible combinations of the magnets that can be on the motor. I tested two magnets on the motor then to four magnets to keep the field balanced. The arrangement of the four neodymium magnets proved to me to produce the most RPM on the motor. Now if you add more magnets on to the magnet you will have more magnetic field effect. Using small neodymium magnets would be probably be the better option to get some extra RPM and torque with out overdoing the motor and battery on Amps. I've got some really small disc magnets that are able to fit inside the axle/pin hole on the Technic parts. However, using magnet this small will probably have a little effect on improving RPM and torque if used.

Looking at the pictures has answer my second question about steering setup. Now that is pretty sweet to have the steering all controllable by one servo motor.

I've ran a series of test on the motor and the results are interesting. Both gear Ratio on the XL planetary gear box was tested in the process along with load and no load condition. I've manage to get the fully geared down XL planetary gear box going at whopping 800 RPM with the help of a series battery connection producing a total of 16 volts. Now I've also manage to put a multimeter up to the motor to measure the current the motor is using. The Neodymium magnets do make the motor run faster but at a higher current cost. The fully geared down original motor was able to run comfortably when lowering the 7.5lb 3.4kg load to the ground at 350-100mA now compare that to when you add the Neo magnets to the motor, the current goes past 2A when lowering the load to the ground. Any questions or thoughts concerns about this effect would be highly appreciated.

Nice work so far. Definitely will be a big one. I have a bunch of questions but I will ask just one. Will each tire have its own motor?

I dont have any 14 tooth gears to try that out. Thanks!

I just increased the speed of the motor using magnets! I have a variety of neodymium magnets and I have been putting them on top and bottom of the motor seeing the effect that it has. I use the 5206 Lego speed computer to determine the speed of the motor. The normal speed of the motor is around 1500 rpm - 1560 rpm. The first set of magnets is a n35 10x2mm disc neo magnet and that was able to bump the speed up of the motor by 400 rpm producing a total of 1900 rpm. The second set of magnets is a lager and stronger neo magnet n50 20x4mm disc type and that was able to bump the speed up by 300 rpm but it also decreased the speed of the motor by 250 rpm from the normal speed. I was playing with the positions of the magnet on the motor and it was effecting the speed as well. Now the polarity of the magnets does matter here. I have the north and south poles marked on the motor. Posting the magnet to get this effect is a difficult because it seem like the magnet repel at the spot that produces the most rpm. The area that the magnet is wants to go to seems to be the area that bogs down the motor more. This is a very interesting effect that adding magnet to the motor can effect the speed of the motor. Edit: This arrangement of magnets manage to increases the rpm of the motor by a maximum of 1000! I need to get that decoupling capacitor on the motor...I can show you the spark that occurs when you don't have one.

Wow! This looks great! Looks like something could be done to get the universal joint to working order again.

Yes JB does have a very little effect with the magnets in the motor. It is granulated steel after all, but I wonder what how much of a effect would these magnets have around the DC motor.... I have mange to do some simple test at the moment with the motor and added magnets. Running the motor without the added magnets appears and sounds faster then running the motor with the magnets. Turning the motor shaft with the added magnets around the motor feels stronger then turning the shaft without the magnets.

The rubber part can go in the new differential like this. A little different setup. I haven't tested this. I guess it works a little like the 1X2 liftarm thin setup but with gears instead.

I have completed the XL motor Upgrade. Every step was carefully done to keep the motor straight. My first step was to remove the lift arms from the Jb weld. My plan is to use the cold weld as a brace to center the motor in place against the case. I had to file down the cold weld on he motor until it was able to fit snugly in side the case. When that was done I went and drilled out a hole in the back of case to center the motor up. After centering the motor up with the case and double checking to make sure everything is straight and centered, I examined the case next to a light with the motor inside showing me where to make the hole for the motor to stick out. I used the same flat head screwdriver to open the XL motor to cut the lines in to the case. When the lines were cut in the case, I used a dremel to make the fitting hole in the back of the case. I used the straight sides of the motor to secure it in place with the hole on the case. The planetary gear box also help in centering the motor up with the case. I plan to make another motor. There was another interesting way I was going to secure the motor with the case and it was going to be with magnets from another motor.

What about this method?

Now the middle holes are all blocked. hahaha

That is an amazing shock absorber setup along with the four link suspension. It is incredible to see some locking differentials on top as well. I have also been in the half a axle width as well. The differential valve lock looks strong have you experienced the clutch gear to pop out under some good amount of torque? Great Job On this crawler. Looks very tough and rugged.

This is neat! The battery box is almost unnoticeable here. The minifigs scene adds the right touch to the floating crane.

That is a great idea. Anyone can find a screw around the home. Easy.

I have took a picture of the XL motor next to the modified XL motor to look at the length difference between the motors. I see that the modified motor is one module bigger than the XL motor. I have an Idea to remove the lift arms and use the cold weld to hold the motor on the inside of the case. But because the modified motor is one module bigger than the XL case, something must be done to the case that will allow the Motor to sit in place. I have a idea to cut/drill a hole in the back of the case big enough so the motor will stick out and some cold weld will lock the motor in place with the case. but if the motor breaks with this method, I will have no luck in replacing the motor that is cold welded in place. Currently the two lift-arms need to come off so the case can be fitted with the motor. I have also been doing test with the geared up XL motor and it evaluating that aspect of the XL motor. I have notice that when using the servo along with powering two geared up XL Motors a fuse will trip in the V2 IR receiver. It can do a fast straight run for about 10 feet in 3-5 seconds before the fuse kicks in and slow it down and touching the servo make that slow down happen faster. I would not really recommend on using the internally "geared up" XL motor for driving. I have not tested the geared up XL motor with the air compressor yet.

A shorter V8 engine block by moving cylinder closer. All you would need to make is a single 4 cylinder block and two of them would make a V8. Just look at the distance that is between the real engine cylinders and compare that to the LEGO Engine.

That Looks Amazing. All you need is the Lego equivalent of a U-bolt and you have it. You could slip a metal rod on the inside of the tube to strengthen it some more.

That is a very brute approach for a Limited Slip Differential. Have you tested any other material at doing this?

This is good. I would not want to test that either but a hot pin stuck in the red axle and allowed to cool down could get it out.

I built the Monster truck that kub0slaw made. I used the Geared up XL motors to power the Monster and it moves incredibly fast until the battery box fuse kicks in. And using the servo trips that fuse even quicker. The trucks ability to turn is real sharp. Using the XL motor with all the gears on the Monster truck definitely has the power and subtle speed behind the light design. Building the Truck was fun and a working design was done in half a hour. The instructions are very well made and it don't take much to build. I am very impressed with this Monster truck. It looks Great. Edit:

Because I like to build stuff. I agree with this 100%. I use my mutitool to get them apart among other things. Think outside the box on this. I think that it is possible to make a impossible to take apart connection with LEGO and Only LEGO... no super glue... Just LEGO. There are locks that will lock ,after you have enter the wrong code, once and they will never unlock again. That sounds great. Can you show a picture of it. LDD would be great.

Could you be able to put a 2L axle in the center?

Now what if this happens?

Now this would be usefull for making centrifugal governors, because you have the axle hole in the middle and the pin holes on the out. That would be a great part to use with the thin liftarms. That is alot of good ideas right there. I agree that there needs to be more free floating gears sizes beside this gear--> and gears in general. The Differential definitely needs to be made stronger.