Carsten Svendsen
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Everything posted by Carsten Svendsen
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The Zamor balls are wider than 2L and would not fit though unless forced. I'm certain of this, I've tried it myself before -
I agree with this, it seems like the better idea. Iterate the mechanism a couple of times and then see if you can scale it down with smaller parts. The rubber part is also way better than flexing the axles themselves.
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Cars, trucks, construction vehicles and amusement park rides have all been done before, and extremely well too. I suggest something less practical and more interesting. Like kinetic art, simple things like a roll-up gate or something slightly futuristic. Go back to the roots of LEGO, look at some old sets from the 90's and get inspiration. Maybe even recreate the more obscure sets in a modern way?
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I don't understand how this suspension works, or why it needs to be this complex? It looks really cool though.
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I don't know how the spring loaded missile launchers work, but the arm mechanism seems simple enough. Unless you want it to be motorized, then I don't know how you would fit anything in there. You also didn't specify a scale for the head. It seems you are building the head with studs facing forwards. That could be quite a challenge. If all you need is a little movement, and there's no space for springs or rubber bands, I suggest using the very nature of the plastic pieces as a spring. See my battery drill from 2 minutes in, I used a long axle as a spring for the lever button. It works amazingly.
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I don't think using CV joints is a great idea when you directly couple it to that type of motor. I haven't tried any applications like this, but I would imagine that it comes apart quickly.
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I'd get the rotary motion from the truck wheels instead of the attachment.
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We still haven't seen it walk though... Does it actually function? The bodywork won't matter now, if you have to rebuild it later.
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I've never tried that software before, I'll give it a shot next time I've got my LEGO at hand. But the main fun, honestly comes from the software. You just can't beat those witty characters and cool cutscenes.
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I'm not working on this, but thought about something else than cars. Everything on this site is just cars these past few years... I worked on creating a fluid tail like motion for an animatronic sculpture, but never got anywhere with it. Maybe someone feels like a challenge?
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8482 and 8450 - Cybermaster and the expansion, The Mission I got 8482 Cybermaster as a christmas present, and oh boy did I use that set a lot. The case it comes in was awesome, and the playability was through the roof with the PC game. The instructions were super clear and it was just so fun to play with. Then I got the 8450 The Mission set a year later I think, and it added a lot of playability as well. I think these sets are the only ones that I've *actually* played with, and not just built to take apart again. It was a blast. These days, you'd need to get the serial ports up and running for it to work, and the operating system must be Win98 maximum. XP could be tricky to get to work. And forget about a VM, that will never work. So I'm basically never seeing the real value of these sets ever again, realistically. You can still access the building instructions and cutscenes, as they are .MOV files on the CD-roms. But it itsn't the same without the interaction.
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This is really cool. I wonder if you there is any inspiration to get from the old 9754-3 Dark Side Developer Kit (Halfway down the page) LEGO 9754 Dark Side Development Kit Instructions, Technic: Mindstorm (brickinstructions.com)
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I just LOVE the framework. There's just something beautiful about the old school way of doing framework. And the wheels are cool too, though, the main part of this build.
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It's always been like this. The wall thickness of the frictionless pins are thinner as they need to be able to flex more. However, I don't know when this happened, but some 2L pins are too small to insert bars into if I recall correctly, and yet other times, no problem.
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Knowing nothing about trial trucks, but drawing from general physics and knowledge, I'd say you need your point of gravity to be about a third from the front. So divide your car in three, and put the point of gravity there.
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I see it\s still available on the LEGO site, but for PCs only WeDo 2.0 | Software Download | LEGO® Education Also, you can just search for "wedo 2.0 apk" and you'll find some sites distributing the software for your phone there Download WeDo 2.0 LEGO® Education APKs for Android - APKMirror It's not that hard to find.
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Oh, I understand now. The ridges on the 1L bush is the same as the ridges on the axle joiners. But, using this method, now your gearbox is not stable, and will be unable to transmit any torque at all.
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I don't have access to LEGO right now, but I'm imagining a simple lever mecahnism, kinda like this. Just try out a few different options
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Technically correct, but it also depends on how much torque he wants to put the load under before the clutch gear slips.
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Maybe it would be enough to power the middle wheels on such a small model. I'm thinking you could maybe just use gears and chains to go from the wheel to the chassis. I don't know what's inside the body, but it seems like it's just hollow space.
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See how it's been used in 8466 for instance: Page 39 +/- a few pages lego.com/cdn/product-assets/product.bi.core.pdf/4164096.pdf
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Anti-virus software is so last decade. Don't have it on your computer and don't click anything on sketchy sites. Adblock is all you need. Just read through it, and without the device in my hand, I find step 6 fairly confusing, maybe some pictures would help tremendously
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I love to see complicated mechanisms and try to figure out how they work from a photo. I posted similar photos of my Fastbale MOC knowing exactly how it works. However, now that I see it from another perspective, nothing makes sense , so really, a video is the only way to explain anything, I've learned (just now) Good to know for the future. Also yes, universal joints have a ton of slack and they don't rotate evenly, gears have much less slack and the CV joints rotate evenly, so it's a good combination.
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Ah. I see now. This is so much better. It could actually work. Okay, so maybe I haven't given up all hope yet. I'd still have to change out all of the gears that have slipped from rounded edges though. It's quite an operation. By the time I get back to my LEGO and this creation, I think I'll try it out. For now though, I am currently doing some scuba diving for an unknown period of time. At least 3 months, hopefully a year.
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I bought some White lithium grease for this very purpose, however I decided not to use it, as the problem was not friction after all. The rotating parts are getting caught on the brick arches on the long black plate, and also getting caught between the rotating disc part and the liftarms going across. The tolerances are simply too small. That is a good point, but would however, destroy the looks of the creation. I think you should be able to see in the video on the backside, that there are no gears going the whole long way. Everything is geared down continously as you go from the fast end to the slow end. So there's a lot of gear slipping as well. I do remember seing this video though, thanks for bringing it back to my attention :)