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z3_2drive

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by z3_2drive

  1. ok so I've been thinking...I want some extra gearing so in the chassis I think I'll use a 12t/20t combination, but do you guys know if installing....lets say a 2 speed gearbox... will be worth it? or having one ratio with high torque?
  2. I would love to see this built- subaru impreza hatchback and modified by crawford performance.
  3. my bad, still, anything can happen...
  4. oooh yes it would but it would need to be without the 'friction ridges' .... maybe lego just needs to make stronger u-joints as a single piece? I think it's been a long time since we've gotten an updated u-joint...
  5. That would sure be awesome, but you're getting into the hobby rc range with some of those ideas like the various electronics and pre-made adjustable parts...unless you want technic to evolve into a plastic rival of hobby rc standard
  6. Love it, you are a professional body builder!
  7. yes I agree, I was just messing around with ideas because i've used the 12/36 combo in the past, but my building skills and parts inventory have improved since then, so here is version 2 which I built yesterday: ^need more 3x5 thin liftarms to make the other side ^heavy duty u-joints take up too much space, sorry. ^these pieces keep the 12t in place by reinforcing the axle it sits on. ^these keep the bottom link mounts from popping off, I will figure out some to do the same for the top link mounts.
  8. Haha watching all of you think of replacements...If you can afford to change the length of the links(I'm sure you do with such a big MOC) just place a 7l liftarm between two of these- -and connect with 2l axle+pins and there you go-stronger link with same towball connection as original 9l link, just 2 studs longer Good luck on that beast! EDIT: other than that I'd use ideas previously stated, especially the use of studded technic beams, not studless, wherever you can.
  9. amazing, the air ducts look a bit odd from the back but the front...reminds me of a futuristic f1...Love it
  10. Alasdair, I might just do the custom u joint but I'll make the chassis first to see if it would fit, because it would change the geometry I currently have, and Tim, yes I love them too but their size can put a little bit of stress on the axle when going over obstacles, and if this crawler gets fully built, I will decide whether knob wheels will be necessary (torque-wise)
  11. April Fool's day has passed, so it's time to get serious. After building my large speed chassis with the new hubs, I was so eager to build I disassembled it right away I think I have a video, but not completely sure, because I deleted some... Anyway after a couple days of messing around with various ideas I came up with a solid prototype. Features are: 4 link connections, gear reduction 1:9-using a nifty reduction right before the 5x7 frame(which has knob wheels so I don't break any bevel gears), a telescopic driveshaft which I got from a youtube video-not sure who it was by; new 8t gears, and to top it off, my 1.9 Rok Lox tires Photos: I guess I will build a chassis then the front axle. This crawler will probably use buggy motors considering the reduction.
  12. I broke both my hockey spring pieces in the past so I don't trust them but it is a good option!
  13. I thought it was going to be true! nice joke
  14. well its been a VERY long time and long story short: It wasnt what I wanted so I went through countless mini models and ideas till I had another go...and guess what? Third time's a charm! it is VERY fast-key is DIRECT DRIVE, no gears whatsoever. It drifts, it spins, it handles great! the front steering has a caster angle which helps the return-to-center steering. Video will come another day but for now pics(I threw the model together as quickly as i could ) ^rear axle was tricky to build around motors, but new hubs helped a lot ^interesting battery placement makes the center of gravity low and in the middle of the car. Hope you like it!
  15. because it's not-I'm pretty sure. I recall sheepo's mini cooper s had a 4 speed sequential gearbox but i'm not sure about the dimensions...
  16. I got a new xl motor recently and it seemed smoother/more quiet/faster compared to older one but that must be from wear-and-tear on the old one. I'm sure all motors have some slight differences but not enough that you should be worried...
  17. yes, and that is a vital mistake-you are using instead of <new wishbones which go well with double CV joints
  18. oh, and since you said you purposely stretched the image, why not use the new wishbones? the one you present are the old ones like in the 8466...I think you will benefit if you use the new ones
  19. Well I've been somewhat of an artist ever since I first picked up a pencil. I used to draw nature scenes, even coral reefs, but since late elementary/early middle school I've become fascinated with mechanical things, and I love cars, trucks, buggies...vehicles in general, so that's all I draw now I've also tested my sculpting skills by taking a ceramics/pottery class this year, and so far I've made some of the best works in the class according to my teacher. And a new hobby I started this year is mountain biking-great fun and exercise but also a chance for me to learn how to replace parts and tune brakes, maintenance, upgrades etc...something to replace lego if i ever go into a 'dark age' which I most likely will as I've been finding less and less time to work on things... oh well, and by the way my newest WIP drawing of a mazdaspeed 3- its pretty good but it will be even better once finished
  20. the way he has it now the wishbones are not aligned with the shafts...we'll see how it turns out...
  21. that 42003 really is a mystery...I hope it's not another pull-back...maybe the set does not exist?
  22. MUST HAVE! hopefully I can get this, I like the new sets but that blue, and those wheels, and...EVERYTHING! really great job
  23. looks great, BUT-you definitely need softer shock absorbers and maybe lower gear ratio(maybe), either way nice MOC!
  24. uhhh....what are you on about? the driveshaft comes straight out of the motors, then into a 20t gear that drives the differential. Out of the differential comes a pair of these--connected by a pair of these--(they touch so they dont move along the shaft) and the second light grey piece connects into this hub(which has yet to arrive)- So-no u-joints here and should be very strong, but plastic wear is expected from non-greased pieces moving at high speed and using those yellow knob wheels drastically reduces performance of a high speed vehicle-they're only used for trial trucks/crawlers. 2 extra 20t gears are hopefully going to keep the differential in place and free of skipping teeth edit: I think you're confusing U-joints with CV joints
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