Lazarus

Loco is all made and made its first test run. Have come across derailing issues on tight bends am working on fixing this. Until i get the kinks worked out i wont have a complete plan to sell.

RC motors have the worst performance out of all 3 types. Best is the newer PF motor. the internals on all 3 motors are the same but there is no point using the RC motor unless u have one around you dont need but it will give you not the best running performance. I am replacing any of my dead 9v internals with PF internals. PF motors new go for about $9US what is CHEAP and little work is needed to swap over.

What about the rubber bands of the PF motor wheels they are common and anything i would think they would be the same size.

OK i can think of two things that might be the issue. 1. metal wheels are very durty around where the flange is hiting the track. proberly not this one oddly 9v motor wheels dont really get durty. 2. on all 4 wheels there is a copper/brass plate that presses on the rear of the wheel to transfer power from wheel to motor. This can get dusty and durty, its not that hard of a fix. You just need to open all the motor take the wheel axle out and get a achol swab (any sort of clean stuff should be ok) and clean the copper/brass bit. Also before puting it all back together if you bend the copper/brass but out a little more it should apply more pressure to the wheel and give you a 100% contact. Open motor Take out wheel axle only. Clean bush type pressure plates and bend out slightly.

Will taking out the thermal fuse do any long term damage if the motor does over work itself? Also just ordered the older RC 9v motor to playing. Going to do an internal motor swap into a 9v motor and see what happens. As i cant see or find any real info on if this has been done. Cost of NEW RC and PF motor about $10 > cost of used old 9v motor $50 So replacing the internal motors on these old 9v babys is the way to go. If i fail with the old RC motor i will then move onto the PF. Even if the RC motor works i will move onto the PF as these are ment to have more power than both the 9v and RC motors. From photos the internal motors look very close at most i am hoping a bit of soldering. I will also test if i can run a RC and PF motor piggy backing off the power connecter ontop of the 9v motor.

no if the bushes on the motor of almost dead it will act this way. I was going to try and put a PF internal motor into a 9v motor but not got around to doing it yet.

sounds burt out from my experiance i had 3 motors like this some that would run for a few secs and stop and some that would go for like 5 mins. replace the internal motor if you can find one if not time for a new 9v motor. like you said its not going to be a power issue. this is what happens to 9v motors over the year. try and get a replacment 2nd hand one but i would recommend asking the seller to test them with load for about 30mins before shipping. i have been sent 2 duds before though brick link as they worked ok on there own with no loco but as soon as you put load on it they over heat. It will be the bushes in the motor they dont last forever.

Sorry dint give out my plans but i do put them on my bricklink for a small fee once i have ironed out any issues. This will also be at a local lego show 1/2/3 June in Henderson auckland Nz

Ok so i have the loco made bar missing one lot of bits that are about a week out. I managed to get Pov ray working so here is a render on the loco

nice class 8, one of the better ones i have seen around. would like a lxf for it :-)

Nice model, i dont normaly like USA trains but this looks quite nice. Main thing i want to know is how do you make you LDD looks so good in the photos.

double slip would be the best or a 45dec X.

spot on there like the EN to short and to tall and it can be fixed with just a few extra studs?? maybe they done see this.

Model trains weather it be L guage or real models train like HO OO and N scale are all dying in this modem world. The average age of people who are into models trains to the point where they spend a lot of cash are normaly 40+. Lego is made for 10-15 year olds, shock horror yes it is not for old men that is there target ordiance. They are all about lots of new sets to keep kids buying in a cheap price range so parents can buy. Hard core fans like us who are older than 15 proberly only fill up maybe 5% of there market, thats not just trains thats all there lines they do star wars city and so on. Lego is expencive we all know that and takes up lots of space. It is even more expencive than normal models trains if you want to build a layout. Most of the market who would buy a current new design of lego train will only have space for a basic loop that they give in the box. We would all love more track options but it will just never happen from lego direct. It needs to be done by a 3rd party even then i dont think sales would be supper high so that 3rd party would have to proberly do its as a love for lego trains not for profit. Modifying what we have at present is not that hard, and i bet with most of us and the years of life under our belt we could easly modify a turn out if we had a guide. I might be an odd one out here as i am only 28 but i am an old 28y/o. wife kids and house, i have been into trains since i came into this world and i have model train layouts both N and HO and also now working on L. So there is a few young ones out there, and in saying that i am a moden day geek. I do IT for a living and been on a PC since i was 3. But there is nothing more fun that doing/fixing something with your hands.

Very common design, so does not look much diffrent from the last. Key things i would think of would be how high are you going to have this. how are you going to get the loco there. You dont always need to rase the track you could always lower the base boad.

Never liked the look of the amarican locos. like the old westens one. I dont they could do much of a better looking loco than what they have done in the new westen set. To be honest i think lego lack good designers of late some of the kits coming out are shocking and really ugly.

Tryed a few diffrent ideas brick making them and other windows but none of them looked as good as what was there already. It will still look ok in black it would look worse with any other type to big compared to the real loco. Good idea about the window pains but dont like the look but smart idea

Would love a black 5

Pics are bad very blury. Comments would be it does lack a bit of detail. I think the doors are wrong the idea is right but gray doors dont go with the tan and brown. I would try and make up a brick sliding door in the same colors. I can see a lot of small bricks used also a good amount of 1x2. i would change to 1x6, less brick out lines and less chance to notice the brick fade. Nice V1.0 but i would go back to it a keep working on it. very few on my designs are close to what i made in the first Moc

yup those does dont come in Dark red. And the windows. What is about 40% of the model. Might want to change those.

@ Zephyr I do dislike any of the tecnic bits as connection rods, so i am only using them for temp now to do some test runs. Then will look at getting the nice custom rods. Also one big downer from buy all my parts was the windows on the cab done come in lego green (dark green) so they had to be changed to black. I just hope it looks good when its all together it does not look as good as it did in green in LDD. The cheaper of the white windows are in a ok price i dont mind NZ $0.45 when i only need about 30-40 of them also these are from one of my main surplyers what is handy also save me on shipping.

Check out page one, one of the coaches have two 9v motors and can add more coaches with motors if needed as i am not sure if 2 will do the job. I have managed to make the bogies on the power and unpowerd ones almost identical and you cant tell them apart in the pics. but the first coach is the power car. I though of a few ways of powering but this is the best way to avoid killing the look. Also parts for loco ordered only cost $175 nz what is a bit costly but its about 1200 bricks the horizon is like 1400 and that cost me $240 nz so cost per brick about the same. I expect coaches to be about $100 a piece.

Sounds like it is sorting from my experiance of 9v. I would replace the cable betweel the controler and track thay are not that costly about $5 off bricklink. http://www.bricklink...m.asp?P=5306c01 Or to save a buck you could cut the cable and rewire it up where it is exposed. But is sounds just like it is shorting and the regulator is just kicking into its like safe mode. The light will also dim if you have two controler on the same track loop going in oposite directions. The make up of 9v is very basic is like DC model trains. One track is + one is - if there is + and - on same track side a short happens. It sounds like the damage cable has the + and - wires connecting if you chop the bad bit out and rewire and put some heat shrink over each cable that should fix the issue.

Everything is down both powered and unpowered mk1 coaches, mk1 restarunt car and mk1 break.

Note: Crossing/track ballast/refuling depot/roads/lineside hut has been no put onto brick link