Lazarus

OK this is version 4.0 not sold on it as i dont think the 1x2 tiles look that good but tell me what you think.

the middle roof will only be held on by the 4 gray 1x1 bricks so it will pull off easy. The way the top window is it wont clip to all the other windows and that.

Inside as requested. Only flaw so far is the smaller windows have no support from the top of them so not sure it is will work out ok it should be fine for what i am using if for. And adding an extra plate height might kill the look again.

OK well had a bit more of a play and the outcome i think is getting there.

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OK well what pinioncorp advised looks worse so not way i am going down that road. But yes cost is put them out the window so will have to deal with Trans light blue. But i think in the end it will look good I have also dropped the upper level my a Plate that make the top bit look a bit more rounded and a consistent shape.

OK with the white base Front one 2.0 rear 1.0 I see the issue with the windows but just tried to put those other bits in but it just dont look right.

Ya that would do the job looks a bit rare :-P But price is not bad only a few bucks. I was looking for that but the part number must of changed.

Hello All. This has likely been done a tone of times before but i decided to do this when i was thinking about getting the metroliner. I turned away from that just due to cost and the old loco does not look that good. This is based on the club car from the metro setup and changed to match the Passenger train. The Train base had to be made from other parts and the train base does not come in white and it needed to be white to keep the flow going though the train. As you can see from the complete set pic it matches up quite well. C&C welcome. Ta Matthew

Hello All. Just been getting some issues with LDD to Pov Ray tool, my rendering gets though about 30% and then stalls. Has worked before for me, have removed all software and added back on, removed any temp files that it leaves and still does it. Any clues. My pc has ample speed and graphics. Very high end system.

Spot on, just what i was after. Time to make me some Minions

Would love to know how to make this, my wife would also love this. Be good for her Bday thats coming up.

Ohh i fully understand that, my whole layout is custom and over 70,000 parts and now working on rolling stock and locos. Just saves me a bit of time if i could just buy a set like i do with my houses. Its more about keeping Trains alive for the young, not for us oldies who will design something and bricklink it and wait a month for parts. 10 y/o cant do that. Also i feel there is just something about opening a new box of lego off the shelf and making it. It like the smell of new books, you just like it. you dont get that with bricklink orders haha.

The lego show i was just in two months back, the amount of people who said "what lego do trains as well" was shocking. And the kids where hooked when they saw the stuff they would completely ignore all the static stuff like star-wars and all the other gear on display. Parents happily pay $800 for a death star but wont pay $3-400 for a train set dont think so, come on lego the people are there and the money. Spend less cash on dumb stuff like chimera and ninjargo.

personally i think the EN was a fail not that good looking loco compared to a lot of other sets what are out there. With some of the US locos and the Horizon being some of the best looking ones. We need more add on's not more trains. back in the 90s we had crossing stations sheds heaps of stuff all for trains. now in the 2000s we get really bad looking station and i cant think of any else for the past 10 years.

The one i have designed is going to be about 3-400 to make so i would be keen on something it they did do something before i get around to building that. What is $400 after the amount i have spent so far on lego, just a drop in the ocean :-)

Like the photo shop work thats kool. Nice build

Sounds like a dead motor to me i have had this before, the light still being on means you have power going though the rails and the wheels are picking up power. The motor working on its own to will little load means the internal bushes are stuffed on the motor and they would for a while but they will overheat and it will stall. I have had 4 motors do this to me. And as i am heavily into my 9v train i need all the motors i can get and they are not cheap to replace. So i made a fix for it. have a look here. http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=83667 - Also in regards to cleaning the track wet rage will do the job or a Rail cleaner rubber like you would use for models train. But i never clean my track and the only stuff i have had to clean is 2nd stuff i bought with sticky gunk on it. 9v track and motors work way better than model trains, need little cleaning and maintenance.

A4 all the way for me i say. I have loved that loco all my life. I even have a photo of my as a boy on the footplate.

i personally would have the wagons/coaches push the loco. I did this with my flying Scotsman and it works well, as long as you remove all O rings off all the wheels on the loco.

Thanks for the Info Guys. Going to order some 12v controllers when i have the cash and do some playing. Sounds like it is going to do what i want it to do what will do wonders for saving space and amount of cables i need around my train set.

I just got this, bought it as soon as i saw it. Love it and was a fun build. Really liked the kids short legs my fist min fig with kid legs haha. I just did not like the way the bin does not hang in the middle like the pic and slides to the side. Only one thing i did not like. It was a good add on to one of my houses in the back yard.

OK so these are my specs for the motors for my turn outs. Current consumption: 2,800mA RPM: 20,700rpm Proper voltage: 2.4~3.0V I have currently tested on a Hornby select DCC transformer what only puts out around 15v DC and 1 amp. This has ample power to do what i need but takes to long to charge the caps in side the controller so i suspect it is drains them every time i switch the motor. It did the same for my model train point motors also thats why its my spare as its utter crap. I run the above motor though a MOM switch so they only get power for a Sec then stop. Do you think the 8 amp 12v controller will kill these due to the increase in amps.

This output sec II: 12V DC (also actually 16,5V) would the amps not be at a constant for this are it is DC, understand the above comment for the sec I: 0-12V DC

just to check when you say 8VA you mean 8amps? Cool sounds like what i am after saves me getting another power supply to for my remote switches. I like that old school speed leaver they show in the manual for this controller might make that up and find the sweet spot for the 9v motor and make a block so the leaver cant go up to 12v (16v) With the speed regulator is there anything you can feel when turning it to know you have gone up a notch.