Lazarus

Yes it will :-) the wheels at ether end can move.

Sorry for bring up one of my old topics but the tenders on my FS have been nagging me for a while. Ok so issue is powering this loco, I can push from the coaches behind the loco but it tends to have some issue with the dual tender. Yes i wanted to get it dual but have now dropped the 2nd tender and made it single tender but powered. Now the hard bit the EN tender is two short to put in a motor and 2 wheel so there is 4 wheels in the tend the FS needs to have. So this needed to be extended to 20 studs long, what i find over all it looks better with the longer tender with the loco being 8 wide. SO this is what i came up with powered rear tender so now the loco can move on its own. If i need more power to pull coaches they can be added into them.

Nice Kiwi Locos Thumbs up.

Best parts I think are those trees really life like, Would like the plans for those. Dis like the over sized locos on such a small layout. Although they are well designed and look good just scale looks off. @Hrw-Amen May Layout that is almost done and a bit bigger than this I fully own, but our main club layout is owned i think by 5 people. So you are right some of these larger layouts are bit off a few people.

Its done just with a RC motor the 3v ones that go in scalecric cars. Wire it to a Mom off Mom switch and away you go its simple but small and effective. The wiring is more complex the the motor itself. You need to pop out the switches remove the resistance on the leave so it moves smothly and also lube it up and the small motor has enought balls to switch it. But you need to run a higher volt though it or it wont switch. I dont know how long each motor will last but at like $5 each its no bigy. The test one i made i switch about 50 times and its still going, as you only power it for a seconed it dont blow it it from the looks well atleast not right away.

There is still a lot of detail left to go and buildings that are not shown here. There was two things i wanted in the layout but has limated space one was a bridge and the other a tunnel. I have the bridge and have a tunnel that will lead off to my fiddel yeard. Thats why the bridge was there and needed to build an idea around it and I think the camp site looks nice.

@Kieran > Look at my topic for fix the 9v motors > http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=83667&hl=lazarus#entry1622708 @Murdoch > I fell in love with that signal tower when i first saw it, one of my first models I made for my set even if it does cost about $250 to make :-P, Bridge very simple and looks good.

I could only see u making the 6X8 25 Degrees but chopping in two and adding a roof tile. Easy dont with right tools, make stuff 8 wide can require you to mod parts. 7 wide does look better over 8 I think, I would chop the hell out of that controller and make it fit. Ahh with DCC you can get software you run your trains from your PC, I run digitrax gear with my HO train and then run off my PC. So you would get best of both worlds.

Ahh I love the 4563 that was my first set ever when I was about 7y/o. I still have that complete and run it on my new layout just for me. It is nothing compared to some of the custom locos I have but still my first so its my Fav.

Ahh the 12v, one big reason for that, the aux power on them to run my turn out motors also I had issues trying to find a aux power with enough grunt to flip the switches. 2nd needed the extra amps for some of my locos that run 4 9v motors at once on the same rail those 9v controllers are just not built like the 12v. The leavers on the 12v are not just there for looks but they also restrict the amount of power I can run though them. So when that leaver and pushed all the way forward its not running at 12v. My club has tried and tested 12v controllers with 9v and as long as you dont run full tit and over load the weight of the trains you dont damage the motors. (also i dont care about burning out 9v motors as I can replace the internal gear for really cheap and about 30mins work) On the extra bit on the end I still need to make I will also have a fiddle yard on another large table but at present that will just be track to store my trains. On the extra bit what still needs to be made has a tunnel on a siding that leaves off to the fiddle yard. Brick count for layout about 100k bricks excluding trains and cars and figs. Thanks for all the nice comments, Well if you are in NZ it will be complete for next Octobers Auckland lego show. What means i still have a heap of work to do. Also for decouples I might look at the model train work for some options as I have the Aux power i could put in some HO Peco ones, not to worried about this at this point as each of my train have a set rake of wagons. So it will be a matter of pulling them on to the fiddle yard and sending the next train on. On a side note the back area when the bus stop is where my station is going. I am just waiting on more parts for finish the roads off and some odds and ends then on this and then mid bit is complete and then onto the end. This station alone has 5k worth of bricks will cost about $400 NZ to make.

ohh the grass was a good idea but I dread doing it now. The time it takes and the brick count is crazy. but outcome make it more 3d, goal was to have little to no flat area like most lego layouts/sets

Sorry to say but you have killed the train i think. That train would also take a lot of work to make 8 wide the front would be hard to make 8 studs and keep the same look. This is one of the best every train kits lego has ever done i think. Also that train already weights a tone due to the brick count making stuff 8 wide adds even more. My 8 wide locos have as much bricks in just the loco than the whole horizon kit. I like what you want to do but how you are going about it is a hard way. I know you proberly already own all that hardware so you dont want to buy stuff what is fine. But all this could be done in DCC with 9v motors and track and it would be very tidy. You could make it fit 6 wide with a little bit of cutting and hard wiring the cable.

Hello All. Did have an old page for this around but thought I would put up a new one. So I am about say 60% though it, still another section needed to be added onto the end what will make it 4.4m x 2m. enjoy.

Sorry town guys this should of gone into trains, but it has a lot of town stuff on it. Admin can remove if they wish.

Hello All. Did have an old page for this around but thought I would put up a new one. So I am about say 60% though it, still another section needed to be added onto the end what will make it 4.4m x 2m. enjoy.

My version http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/370944 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=85381

Well i am after some ME models streight track if any one wants to get rid.

Red Class 37 not sure i like it, its a very fresh color haha. Changed out the wheels, Have you tested your boggie on a bend might be a bit tight with 3 wheels in that setup.

I have the Zephyr for some of my model trains its an ok start. but for the cost i would just spend the cash and get a full on command station. Issue with the zephyr is its low power output i found running locos with DCC sound this is N scale locos they would slow down when playing sounds like bells and horns. But i did buy it so i could just link it to my PC and use software to control my trains. For that i did not need a full on command station i just needed to setup a basic loco net to control remote switches and connect up my PR3.

I would swap u a PF motor for a 9v one no questions asked. But i find with the cable coming off the motors they are a bit stiff to turn if the cable is brand new. Also i think the PF cable is a bit thicker than the one you are showing in the pic. Maybe move the cable to the rear slot in the base see if that helps or maybe take the cable out and flex it a bit to loosen the cable up a bit.

I like it, awesome work.

Thanks for the info Selander and sorry my spelling is not that good :-) I have made the changes, thanks i would of not noticed that till i built it.

Hello All. So first off I hope I am aloud to put this version on here due to the issues of the last ones i put up annoyed some people due to them being clones/copys/remakes. SO first up the basic model is copied of Michael Gales work, what you can find here. http://www.flickr.co...ale/8982777747/ And after some nice comments I was advised the above version would not be the type of Brake van that would of been used by Rail freight. So i went to work on converting it to a "20 Ton Brake Van" that was used by rail freight to match my Locos i have been designing. So i hope there is enough changes to the base model to not class this as a clones/copy/remake and base it as an inspired model.

Hello Michael Yes i copied your work as close as i could, due to me thinking the design was perfect. These where for my own layout not for resale, i did not think it would turn into the issue it has and drag you into this. Like i said if you had the lxf files for some of your work i would love to have them/Buy them as I am a big BR fan. But my skill is lacking when it comes to building i am ok but even from copying your pics i still have no clue how you made some bits work. Your snot work is amazing. My biggest fave of yours is the HST and i have tried to remake but my skills just cant do it. I do not want to be known around the lego world as someone who steals work. But when i see something good and unable to get hold of the plans all i can do is try and copy it. If i knew how to contact yourself i would of just asked for the plans, it looks like you are well known to some of the builders and they informed you of my work. I hope you accept this as an apology Thanks Matthew

Ya i looked at some real life pics for break van, yes they where mostly wood but some where painted in other colors. I might change it up a little more but just rushed though the van last night.