Lazarus

The 9v i think have only 4 steps, i will need to find a sweet spot with the 12v. But do that have an accessory Port on them. Not just the track power? I know the track power will go from 0-12v when nob it turned but the AC/DC output should run at constant 12v if it has one at x amount of amps.

Hello All. Looking at replacing my 9v controllers with the older 12v. I was told from one of the guys at my lego club that they have a higher amp and as long as you dont run it at max they run the 9v motors very well, Also gives toy more control as you move up the speed steps. I was doing a bit of googling and found these also had come AC and DC sockets on them what are not track power and for accessory very much like a DC model train controller. So what i am keen to find out - Is the a AC/DC socket on these (for accessory's) - If so what Amps run though these. End goal is to use these 12v controllers to power my remote switches and my locos.

Love them. The Mk1 coaches looks sexy as, would love the plans for them. I have some of my own design but love to know how you did the roof.

the ShellRaiser is based on a subway car in the show. :-) Then turns into a truck/tram cars with wheels.

Apart from having to hide the battery pack in some locos. But good idea.

I am using (Tamiya Sprint Dash Motor Mini 4WD racing for 4WD Car Kit) but it was just one i picked up from a hobby shop. So i think anything will work just your normal cheap toy motor.

With the new conversion as above the (fixed/upgraded) 9v motor with PF internal motor has all the same pros and the PF so i see them lasting a very long time. Also having the Heat cut out still in both motors will help also. In regards to the speed regulator needing lew volts/amps to move the train. I was meaning, when i run the same loco with the same load with two standard 9v motors i had to run more volts and amp though it to get the same performance as i do now with the new PF gear.

Ya those solutions work and are lego made what some people want to keep it that way. But the size and the looks put me off, i like to keep the look of my layout and realistic as possible. you could do it with this buy you would end up with heaps of line side huts around the show haha. Also i suspect $ for $ the version i use would work out cheaper also. Unless you have all the lego parts already.

I got more PF motors the other day and tested out the 1 9v + standard PF motor and it works ace. This is going to save me a lot of cash and i spread my 9vs across all my locos, i think with this new mod i just need to buy 2 more 9v to have all my locos powered and wont need to play swap a motor at shows. Also found the performance is outstanding compared to two standard 9v, a loco with dual motors now can pull easier and at lower Volts on the controller what reduces stress on the motors. One thing that was commented on above also. I did need to rewire the pf cable and switch the polarities around on the cable in the 9V motor so the normal PF motor would run in the same direction. No big deal took longer for my Iron to warm up than switch two wires around. Will do a video 2moro been stuck at work all weekend.

Taking the O rings of does wonders. That is way easy most of the drag comes from.

I have found just recently with the trailing locos say in the horizon and the red passenger train the tecnic train wheels add a heap of drag. So i swap them to normal train wheels where i can. If i cant i remove the rubber o ring off and then remove the axcel and replace with tenic pins in each wheel removing the axcel is the key bit here long story behind it just needs to be done :-)

I have never been a 12v man i started in the 9v error and never left. I do see the pros of 12v mostly the remove switching for turnouts is my fave. The con of the 12v error is the track is horrible very unrealistic even in lego terms. Yes 9v most train will need 2 or more motors but you can get around this by running 9v and pf motors to save cost. (check out my new videos on how to fix a 9v motor with pf motor). I now only need to have on 9v motor in a logo paired with a PF motor, any 9v guys will know this is to save the $$$. 9v motors are costly to buy 2nd hand and even more new. I have 7 trains at present all needing 2 motors and one needing 4 due to being 8 wide and huge brick count with loco and coaches. So that's a lot of 9v motors that's why i wanted to make away for me to save $$$ and did that by watching the above video. With the remote switching there is ways around that also with some modding if you are upto it. I now have remote switching on my 9v turnouts with another mod you can see on my youtube channel.

Its is a nice size layout and you have the locos and track you would expect on this size layout. (good comment) My comments would be and some of what i am slowly working though on my own layout: 1. You need more detail there it little lego other than the trains and track no theme going or anything else to look at. (this is the bad comment) the rest are tips. 2. I built my layout in sections mostly 4 base plates by 4 base plates. these are then glued onto a sheet of 20mm mdf cut to the size of the 4 base plates. This gives you the strenth you need so you can move the section around without pulling stuff off it. 3. you stick your track and what ever detail onto the sections like buildings and so on and leave it always attached so you never need to rebuild much when you are going to show. 4. i then build large wooden boxes the size of the 4 base boards and normaly stack 3 sections in this box you build the box hight depending on how high your sections are. this makes them very easy to move around in a van or car and when you get to show you just pull out all your sections and place them together and preseto your layout. 5. Planning and design is key with this. I have my whole layout designed on LDD in there 4x4 sections and build sections as i can aford it. 6. ballest your track so it can stick onto base boards even the turnouts this also gives you that needed detail on the track (if you want help with this Msg me and i can send you some plans on how to ballest your track.)

Nice layout, if you check out my other play lists on youtube. Our club layout is on there also we just had our show and i ended up killing 4 motors hence the real need to try and fix something for cheap. Ya the pf motor does perform better than the old 9v so i was thinking of doing this mod on all my 9v motor just to increase the power. Also the motor in the video above i found another old good 9v gear that i replaced with the pf gear and it runs like a 9v again less noise. Some how i think the PF gear has a very very slight difference i can see by eye that makes them louder but still run fine.

1) I suspect that it is likely that the pf cable exiting the shell would interfere with a 9v cable on the metal contacts (unless the 9v cable only connected to the outer two contacts, overhanging the end of the motor by one stud). If so, then it is likely that one would have to choose between 9v or PF power output from the top of the motor (i.e., include the PF as you did and don't use 9v, or don't include the PF output and use the 9v contacts). you could always cut down the 9v connector a little to give space to the brick on the 9v cable. I only us pf light due to them being brighter so this works best for my, also you dont need to do the cable mod. 2) if one does use the PF output to power a second, unmodified PF motor, directional LEDs or similar, then care should be taken to ensure the proper polarity on the output (or risk the need for using a PF pole reverser). yes unless you run like the horizon and want to run two motors in the front. and some other locos that benefit from two motors in the same loco. but this way you can get a 2nd motor for $10 us instead of using more expensive and hard to find 9v motors. 3) just a caution to those watching at home. At some future date Lego might change the subcomponents of the PF train motor, in which case, the viewer may need to modify your process accordingly. Agreed but these new motors where dated 2005 haha. But from the looks of 20 years of lego trains the motor internals have changed very little.

That duck looks quit good nice work.

HAHA in saying that i have a tripod. I was out of it yesterday after converting 4 of these in a row so did not think. Thanks for the comments. As for the PF vs 9v. First i think the PF internal motor will run better due to constant power. And from my small bit of testing i have done with load and with out, it really does look like it out does a 9v. I have one more PF motor on the way what i could test vs a converted one before i gut it. Also more pro this this the pf cable off this motor can join to that of a PF motor and power it with out batter packs. This page it good it says the PF motor has the best performance over all motors so more pros to this you will get more pulling power. http://www.philohome...s/motorcomp.htm

Video 06 Playlist

Hello All. Been meaning to do this conversion for a while, so managed to get around to getting some PF motors off brick link and started converting. I was going to do it with pics bought i though i would give a videos ago, so check out my link to youtube and comment on what you think. So far i have fixed 4 of my fault 9v motors this way and they are running well. There will be a few videos i am going though and editing but they will be all linked to the below link thanks Matthew Video 01 Video 02 Video 03 Video 04 Video 05

yup never took owner ship of it. Maybe should read before comment.

Hello All. been wanting to do this quite a while and now got around to modding one of my switches. I have seen this idea done before and could only do it from pics but i have made up some videos. When i make my 2nd one up i will take some step by step shots. Watch and comment Thanks Matthew

wow 3d printing if only i had access to that.

Thanks for the comments about the lego show. I did not have a huge amount there this year but thanks for all the good comments from who spoke to me. My setup was the Trains on the right as you walked in.

Hello All. Should be a simple question. And i could of found it out myself but have limited wheels at present so could not afford to damage any. the technic pf wheels you get in the new sets the bogie wheel not the standard old 9v complete wheel. The rubber O ring around the wheel that provides grip if they where attached to a PF motor. Can this just be removed to decrease the grip of the wheel so i can use in on bogies and not increase the resistance and increase load on the motors. key thing is with out effecting train running. Like will it increase derailing or the wheel wont run smooth. Ta Matt

trying to avoid powering the loco and have the coaches push the train. If i fail at it this way i will need to switch to PF what i really want to avoid. I have been unable to make the tender 4 wheel with a 9v motor so that option out. So only way to power the loco is with a motor in the cab to keep the look how i want and i dont think one motor could pull four of my coaches due to brick count and size.