Lazarus

Very nice room and woodwork would love a space like that. Really nice wood work you have skills.

I have my normal 9v LH and RH motorized and due to low torque motors on them to keep the size very small i need to stop as much resistance as possible. I found with out any lube the motors had issues even after removing the stock resistance. But even some of the stock 9v switches i have bought are very tight so i bet just some CRC on a none motorized switch would switch easier.

Thats better, maybe some internal detail also. like seats and stuff.

Hello All. Some of you would of see my layout work so far over the past year or so. For an update I am coming close to the end of the main layout, but i needed a fiddle yard for my trains. I was just going to have it connect to the tunnel on the main layout an just go onto a table, but my hands got designing and it ended up turning into a 8000 piece tunnel entrance to the fiddle yard what will not be displayed with the layout. Just go the hill and tunnel done after a few weeks, then moving onto what will be in the fiddle yard. This is what i have this far, it is probably a year off getting built as I see have a lot of other projects to get done before I really need this like more trains and rolling stock before a bigger layout. Once this is complete my layout should be getting close to 6-7m x 2m about 300,000 pieces all of my own this is a one man build. And thanks to Murdock for the original tunnel design. Links to my layout http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88999&hl= http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=81400&hl= http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=80116&hl= thanks Matt

I think the underside between the wheels needs something quite a bit of white space there.

Get 12v controlers I use them and they are fine just note on the controler where 9v is. These run at 8amps, I needed the amps for point motors and they also run alot smother when trains with lots of motors and load. The 7864 transformer has three outputs: - sec I: 0-12V DC (as noted by Bricktrix, the maximum voltage is actually 16,5V) - sec II: 12V DC (also actually 16,5V) - sec III: 13V AC The maximum load for I is 8VA The maximum load for II and III combined is 8VA If you want more amps, you could take a look at transformer 740: - sec I: 0-13V DC, 11VA - sec II: 16V AC, 16VA - sec III: 3,6V AC, 6VA

WD40 or CRC in NZ, I use on my 9v switchs Its awsome stuff.

Enlighten is the best way to go I say just for starting up, it works just as well with PF and is cheaper so for a 4y/o who will probably break stuff, i know i have two of them. If its cheap you wont care so much if it get broke.

Nice work, good detail close to how I do my roads and track :-).

Hello All. This is my project to convert all my 6 wide stuff to 7 wide. My sources for some of the design has come from other Class 37s that others have made. I am updating this top as this is the continuation of the same model project. As I am going 7 wide and am trying to put a bit more detail in, some of the 37s had cow catchers/ snow plows, that I was keen to put in.

That coach is crazy big, and looks really good, but you would need nice long sweeping bends. I dont have the space for this, i cant even setup my 6m by x 2m set in my house.

Best I have ever seen, really keen to try and reproduce this. To base all my level crossing on my layout are the older UK type gate and not the lift arms. But it looks very good not big ugly motors showing. Very clever.

Dont worry very nice build.

Horizon Express x2 Load and Haul Railroad Red and yellow cargo trains (PF ones) Red Passenger train (PF one) 8 wide A3 Pacific In the part collecting stage 7 wide A4 Pacific 6 wide Class 37 6 wide Class 47 6 wide class 20 7 wide class 33 7 wide 125 HST Lost of rolling stock mix of 6/7wide. All running 9v

Awsome bummer i only use LDD. :-( Love the rods anyways get heaps of people asking me where i got them when I am at shows.

Most of my Moc locos are 80s BR diesels. I have a 37,47,20 all 6 wide what i need to make 7 and a 33 in 7 wide and A4 pacific in 7 and A3 pacific in 8 wide. I decided this when I was looking at the 33 and thinking it does look better in 7 than 6. the 37,47 and 20 all look good from the side but always looked to tall from the front. I think he is talking about base width. some bits will stick out an extra stud but its the base size well i think we are talking about here.

I would say 7, I have done some locos in 8 and 6 all custom and I think 7 is the sweet spot. 8 wide the models look good but the track is two narrow so the wheels look like they are not wide enought. 6 wide harder to put detail into them due to limated space and sometimes they look to high from front view. 7 is my sweet spot I say, I will be going though all my loco designs over the next few weeks and converting them all 6 and 8 wide locos to 7 wide so all my locos are the same.

Nice wheels

Looks nice, only comment I have but could be hard and that would be try and slope that blue on the front with slope plates over those roof 45dec slopes.

I like the look of the crossing but have you checked your clearance with your locos. one brick high looks like it will hit motors and the underbody of wheels. Check my crossing on my Moc as I rase my track up by two plates I needed to try and level that to my road plates. Also that road system looks costly in plates.

Check out my Moc page for my 8 wide FS model I did a year back.

Comes down to cost in the end and how much you want to put into the hobby, getting into any train hobby is going to cost. Lego is hands down cheaper than modeling N,HO,OO scale when it comes to cost of trains and rolling stock and switches can set you back $50 just one a single decent one and locos and be in the hundreds some close to $1000. Lego holds it value to this day the older lego stuff is worth more as long as it in good con. So you have resell there where normal model trains dont hold value. If its all about playing go PF, if its about the hobby and its a long term thing go shows big layout and so on 9v hands down. Where ever you invest the cash you will always get it back if you need to sell. Ohh dont buy a new lego 9v thats a tone of cash just buy the cheapest used one and fix it if its not faulty. But with the HE if you are running two sets I would recommend 3-4motors unless you going to trim some fat off the model.

I would say 9v as you have backward compatibility, if you do want to get into some of the older trains. But if you are not jumping into trains like some of us are and spend endless amounts of cash on it. Ya go PF. I personally just hate battery's.

Amazing again love your work.

Got to be a USA loco, not UK. Could be a NZ loco.