Jeroen Ottens

Interesting topic. My style has changed a lot over the years. As a kid I tried to build realistic looking & functional models, but they typically were a letdown in the functiondepartment because I didn't brace properly or used wrong gearratios. After returning from my darkages I discovered that my study mechanical engineering could be applied very well to LEGO models as well, so the models became much better, but at the same time my ambitions grew. Which then still resulted in models that were too ambitious. Then I got my job at LEGO where I really learned to build economically and fit for children. This has had a massive influence on my buildingtechniques to this day forward. I still use a lot of the rules I learned at that time. After I succumbed to studless building (I resisted until the introduction of the 5x7 frame) I again changed the style to be more visually pleasing, but less function dense. This was mainly driven by inexperience with the studless system and lack of parts which meant a lot of the volume in the model was needed for proper bracing etc. As the parts availability grew I started to densify my models again, while maintaining the outer visuals (and even work towards more and more closed outer surfaces). Now I see that I start to use more and more systembricks to detail my models (in my upcoming Ferrari commission the doors and chairs are 80% systembricks). I don't think I will really crossover to the modelteam style, but there is definitely a trend there...

8258 is a great set, I sort of had a second dark age after I quit at LEGO and this set really got me back into it (after I already started tinkering with studless building with Bully). As for finding Bully: Have you checked the place where are the left socks go?

Brilliant, made my day

These ugly ribbed hoses will be replaced by flexaxles. But for reasons beyond our comprehension LDD doesn't allow for 19L flexaxles to be bended, hence the use of these alternative parts.

A list of things for the bodywork to do: - fixate the panels above the front wheels - raise & fixate the 5x7 panels behind the rear wheels - add some interesting details to the rear window - add rearlights - soften the wheelwell of the rearwheels

Thanks for the copying. Chime in on the bodywork if you like, no problem. It will be a bit daunty to keep track of all versions when we are editing all at the same time. So maybe it is an idea that you send your versions to me? That way I can keep one version which I will share on the forum when the next significant update is available. Looking at your picture I would not keep your edits though for two reasons: 1) The 12L flex axles are connected to the door, but when that opens that 6L beam will not be there anymore. 2) I personally don't like the 3x11 curved panel you used. It makes the trunk much blockier, the flexaxle softens that shape again, but by use the long tapered panels that effect also achieved.

The link is for the partslist? Do you also have the link to the LDD?

Yes that is what I meant

Sure, be my guest

The chassis is getting a little cluttered with all the connection points I am adding for the panels. @Didumos69: Do you see it as your task to clean up the chassis after I'm done, or do you want someone else to take care of that? @IA creations: AFAIK no-one is yet appointed to the interior, so my blessing you have. But of course @letsbuild has the final say in that. If you do it, will you work out a solution for the steering as well?

Hi, Here is a first sketch of the rear shaping. Let me know what you like or dislike about it. Can one of the testers check whether the door can still be opened? https://bricksafe.com/files/JeroenOttens/LB-X18 - exp - JO.lxf.png And the LXF File: https://bricksafe.com/files/JeroenOttens/LB-X18 - exp - JO.lxf

Great little model. Any chance of some shots or renders of the internals?

@letsbuild: which version do you want me to continue with?

Great build, I especially like the 3-stage mast and the see-through feature

Great to see an integrated gearbox. I'll spend some time this week on the bodywork. One thing that worries me a bit is the proportions of inside vs outside. The gearbox is eating almost all the space on the inside, so chairs will be rudimentary at best I think Can someone test the gearbox with the linkages? Is there enough room to switch the red levers? The axle with balljoint looks to be quite close to the #2 connector behind it...

I usually colorcode the functions in my creations. The rules I impose on myself are: - axles, axleconnectors and bushes in the same colour whenever possible (typically red, grey, black or yellow) (I even pay a lot of attention to axlelengths in the design so that I can use only odd or only even lengths in one mechanism) - moving levers also in the same colour whenever possible - pivot points, supporting beams for the axles, etc. in the colour of the chassis Sometimes I also make important fixed parts the same colour as the mechanism (for instance parts that block a rotation like in a 1->8 gearbox) These rules still give a lot of uniformity in the overall appearance, because the amount of moving parts is typically limited, but it still is visually interesting I think.

Given the new colourscheme in this forum I would bet on a friends model?

Looking great, very clean. What do you plan to do with the 3L axles sticking out?

When you are in reverse, it doesn't matter what you do with the paddleshifter. The first half of your video you are in reverse, so it always gives the same speed. In the second half of your video you are in Drive, but there seems to be a lot of backlash in all these clutchgears, so it takes a lot of revolutions to engage again when you switch gears (a couple of times you already switch the to the next gear I think, before the one you selected was engaged. Anyway, in the second half of the video you clearly see different output speeds for the different gears, so I don't really understand your question I guess

Can it be that you are in Reverse?

I got sidetracked on yet another project (and to be honest I had the second part already finished when I showed the first part). I have a first version of the boom lying on my table, I also figured out how to route all the cables for the 4 stage boom and how maximize the volume available in the outer boom. I just haven't got around to order the extra parts (I need an insane amount of black 3x11 curved panels. Luckily the hovercraft is a good supply for these ). So don't worry, it is still ongoing, but with the holidays around the corner it could take a while longer than two weeks

The 16T gears have a huge variation in friction. If you have an older version (with the four round holes in it) you should use that, they typically have much more friction. For the newer style 16T gears there is a difference between the older ones (very low friction, almost sliding on the axles) and more recent ones, which have reasonable friction. So it worth testing a couple to see which one has the highest friction.

OK, thx I'll still wait for the chassis update though...

I guess the new waveselector also works on the old 2L driving rings? Or do these old rings not work with the new 20T clutch gears?

In my DB11 I prevent the high-low switcher from switching more than 180 degrees. This way you can't switch from 1 to 8 or vice versa. I can imagine that blocking the 2L lever with towball to go full 360 will achieve the same effect. It doesn't automatically switch back to 1st when switched to neutral (although I have thought of mechanisms to do that, but most of them relied on some sort of wind-up elastic, which gave too much tension in the structure when in 8th gear or too little force when in 2nd gear)