88high

Hello everyone! you may have seen my other topic on how should I make my I-beam suspension. And as i read through some of the replies, i came across saberwing40K's reply, and i saw that he used angled beams for the I-arms So, that got me thinking... maybe i could use them too! So, i gave it a whirl, and had one of those AHA! Moments, when everything fit together and made perfect sense. So, i just stared by building the mount, and working on the I-arm beam connections. so, after making two symentrical and equally-spaced I-beams (by using one shorter and one longer angled beams, and extedning the shorter one on a stud over, i was able to make my I-arms both equal !)So, with the equality figured out, i went onto bracing it (a easy task) and also steering. steering took me a while to figure out, because i have to get the links in the right place, and not have them move the hub when the suspension went up and down the range of travel. my only possible solution to that, is to use the small A-arms with ball joint, and the hub carrier that matches for those, and some 9L links. but my issue as i found out, was that the suspension geometry had to be in the exact center. and of course, that is imopssible with the 9L links, because there is that STUPID little bar going across the link ball socket . So, i had to whip out my razor, and carefully cut off the small bar, so i could stick a axle through it. So, once that was done, all i did was mounted the shocks. And what did I just invent??? The VERY first Lego Technic I-Beam suspension!!! I feel very happy, knowing the challenges i overcame with the suspension geometry, and the I-beam overlap centering! I am also ery proud of myself for making the very first version of this (to my knowledge). So, I just made a short video with iMovie demonstrating the suspension, the travel, and the steering. Also, here are a few pictures (i will put up some better-quailty ones soon): Enjoy!!! Thanks for reading! If i get enough requests, i will make instructions!!!

Great idea with the mount! I think it will work, if I add some ball joints for the steering knuckles. I now just have to figure out some steering linkages

Hello everyone! Since my roll car didnt turn out so well, I decided to make my 3rd Lego Technic RC-buggy-motor-powered baja Prerunner truck. I have the rear suspensions down, but i decided to go with something fancy for the front... I-beam suspension. I-beam suspension is a type of suspension specially developed for desert trucks, for the big bumps in the terrain. Typical independent suspension has A-arms on each side of the suspension unit, like most of the models from lego. (see the bottom two) I-beam suspension, has two beams that cross eachother, to mount on the opposite side of the frame that the wheel it is going to's side. This results in MASSIVE travel (up to 25 inches) for front suspension. Here is a photo: This is what I would like to make. I want to use a studless mounting bracket, that can fit on to the RC unit's nose. I would like to use some of the current Lego A-arms with the ball joints or ball joint sockets, by extending them by using thin beams. I have sone a bit of experimenting, and i have found it pretty difficult to make a compact system for keeping the beams from hitting eachother. I was either thinking of having one side of the A-arms having beams on the INSIDEs of the A, and the other sides on the outside of the A. However, that was not very compact. Maybe I should do one beam on the inside, and one on theoutside of each beam, to make a altenating patern. Wll, anyways, i just need some help with finding the most compact setup, with a strong bracket, and the use of the RC units steering servo for steering... Any ideas anybody???

You could have just used that $$ on parts or sets...

I am In Prescott, arizona

Once again sheepo, another amazing, astonishing, mind-blowing creation! I sure hope you make instructions! .The transmission with 5-speeds is rediculously awesome on a trialtruck, and all 7 motors...just wow...i was sitting slack-jawed, drooling when i watched your video. Plus, maybe you should make a Modular TrialTruck Parts thing like you made with your supercars. I would be glad to help you if you did... Just email me!

I have seen somebody make Misha Van Beek's huge monster truck and try and sell it on ebay. I took a good look and saw that some of the parts underneath the frame were random colors. I was thinking of getting it and replacing them, but it looked like a pain and plus, the price at the end of bidding was well over $500USD, and that is too much for me, for a multicolored monster truck...

Ok, I just tried out muy chassis, and i just cant get the whole car compact enough. I am trying to use a front axle similar to zblj's redneck rollercoaster. ZBLJ PLEASE HELP MEEEEEE!!!

Ok, here is my opinion on this. I still think it is possible to have some fun if we modify the whole duel part. Duels will probably cause huge fights between builders , which will tear apart our Lego community . We dont want that, do we??? So, we do want the idea of a bunch of builders building on a "technic common theme", correct? Well, what I was thinking is that we could have each month be a different THEME month! We could have various themes for each month, and builders can choose to make a creation for that month's theme. Nobody will vote, nobody will be dissapointed, and Hey, as Omniktron mentioned at the beggining, we may get a few new ideas or Technic-Techniques from builders! I say this will be a lot more fun and peacheful between builders. Now whos with me???

Alright! Gonna start th project tonight!!!

THAT SOUNDS LIKE A TON OF FUN!!! I completely support you! I am ready and eager for some duels! Bring it! Here are some themes: •fastest car •stunt car •tank •army •half track •strong trialtruck •auto gearbox •monster truck •wacky cars •land and water cars •drift cars •limousines •low riders •sportscar •construction equipment •dumptrucks •trial trucks •2-wheeled vehicles (motorized) •walkers •omnidrives •rock crawlers •4-link susp trialtrucks •pendular susp trialtrucks •Tatra contest •unimog contest •helicopter •transmissions •differential locks •wheelie cars That should get us started. let's Go!!!!

Yes, perhaps I may mount my bb in front of the axle, however that will throw off the whole shape of the car...

The whole drivetrain idea is going to be powered by a RC buggy motor for sure. Also, I was thinking about some gear-and ratchet lock system that you can engage by remote...

Hey y'all! I was just surfing around YouTube when I came across this crude-looking, but awesome stunt car. It is a shortened 2-door VW gold, with raised suspensions, and a egg-like rollover on the top of the car. The driver will be able to floor the VW golf forward, slam on the brakes, and have the entire car roll forward and keep going. Here is the video: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CEQQtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DLsQEuDKDjTs&ei=VsSpT8qoDqno2gXv1eWmAg&usg=AFQjCNHLu8fkNZORllyONJhh4_sI_ApFMA Ok, so, I was wondering to myself...is this possible. With Lego, and of so, how should I go about building this stunt car? Here are my ideas so far: •small, sturdy frame •stiff front independent suspension, rear suspension similar to Zblj's redneck roller coaster •maybe a battery box that slides foreword and back, and slides forward when the car stops abruptly. •some type of remote-control wheel-lock system for abrupt stops •rollcage made with flex tubes •small-wheel-scale I am very much pondering the possibility of this project, let alone how to go about it... I am just stuck on the whole how-do-I-do this??? Aspect of the build. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions or techniques for this project??? Thanks so much for reading, I look forward to this project!

You can modify a bush long enough for your needs by taking a 8t gear and a razor blade, cutting off each tooth, and then put a axle through it, and cut a bush your desired legnh out of your 1-stud wide area. Good luck!

I know i will willingly admit that I used more "famous builders" instructions to get my techniques up to par with them, but now I have mastered technic building techniques, I can start building 100% original MOCS like my ol' grey trialtruck (my first good original technic trialtruck) Speaking of which, has instructions in my Brickshelf gallery. Link is in my profile.

My main frustration is gears and propellors. •The Lego group only makes two props suitable for RC boats with one of them having a terrible axle hole! •worm screw gears are not the right length! They are about 1/4 of a bushing too short, causeing them to slide. •also, I understand Ur pain with the mini LA. Perhaps a solution to that is to put something hard or some glue on the inside of that clutch. I will experiment with that soon. •why doesn't Lego make the same gear toothage as from the new 3L diff!!! •the sides of the 8t gear slip into the small ridges of the pinhole!!!

I think 3D printing would be a awesome idea as long as the colors are the same as lego's, and the sides are very exact, and the plastic mix being a good quality. I have modified 1/4 size axle spacers out of a 8tooth gear or a 1/2 technic bushing. It works well on wormscrew gear applications.

Yes. I understand that. However, the most common reason why they slip is because of a unsturdy spacer. Take the 3L beam for example. If you snap it in the 5x7 frame, it only has 2 attachment points. Yours has a better because it has 8 attachment points, and also, it attaches to the top of the axle. It al depends on the gear casing, not as much the axle bending away from the other bevel gear in such a small space. Hovever, on rare occasions, that is a factor. Thanks for your explanation, I hope you like it!

Oh, i understand. i thought it was a weird half-drive axle. it works fine without those gears

You just have to be careful of these scumbags. I almost bought a 8110 'mog off of some 3rd party site for 139.99. There were no ratings and the seller was supposedly in the US. But, I thought about it, and I guessed that it would be best if I used just $40 extra to be sure I wasn't ripped of. I got my 8110 off of amazon for $20-30 less than the normal price, plus free shipping. I also bought a 8367 hot flame RC for dirt cheap. The average price for a new boxed 8367 is $159.99. I got mine for $94.99 off of eBay. I wasnt sure if i would get scamed. But, i took a risk and found out that he was just a seller that didn't realize the value of his set!!!

Uh, what I mean by wacky gearing is that you put one 20t clutch and a 20t single bevel on one side, and a 20t double bevel on the other. Why?!?

Well, if I raise the pneumatics all the way up, it can do a "patch out" without my foot holding it.

Hey everyone! I was messing around on my driveway witha experimental pneumatic-lowrider RC buggy motor car...and i found out that legoRC Buggy Motors were capapble of making some burnout skidmarks and a bit of tire dust on my driveway! Here is a short video of it! I hope you like the bird chirping and i hope you can see the small black marks at the end '>http:// aaaah the stupid media thing didnt work. let me try again

awesome, love the pics, Send me a email once the instructions are done:) I love the rims!