Blakbird

I've generally been able to get a smaller file size/page ratio, though I couldn't explain why. When you are ready, if you want to share your LDraw file with me I can try exporting with my settings and see if we get a more reasonably sized file.

There's nothing wrong with someone asking if you would be willing to sell something. It is actually flattering that they appreciate your work. However, they often have no appreciation of the value of what they are asking. If you spent 100 hours designing something, then lots more hours and money acquiring the parts just tell the person, "I suppose I could sell it for the right price, but it would have to be at least $10,000 to cover my costs." If they think that's too much then they don't understand and no further communication is necessary. If they say yes, then you made ten grand. Some people are actually willing to spend that. You might be surprised! Probably not this wanker though.

I assume Akiyuki changed it for a reason, so I'd recommend the newer version. I had a similar problem with the Bucket Wheel Tower. There is a 2 LDU interference on one of the ramp slopes. In the physical build, it is not a problem and actually makes the ramp line up better.

Since we were discussing multiple versions of the Cup to Cup module, I've also noticed that there are multiple versions of the ball shooter. Specifically, Akiyuki seems to have changed the back panel significantly in the newer video. Which do you intend to use? Original: Newer:

Instructions for Akiyuki's Cup to Cup module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 65 pages 1089 parts Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to djm who did the work, made full instructions, and presented them in this topic. There was discussion at the time that this was a simple module for Akiyuki and while that is true mechanically, having now built it I can say that there is some very complicated SNOT in here which is not at all obvious upon initial examination. This is one of Akiyuki's earliest modules from when he was still learning his craft. Perhaps partially because of this, there are many different versions. The original version presented in his video is very crude aesthetically and does not have an output. A survey of his videos from various conventions and presentations reveal at least 3 later versions of the module with varying degrees of changes and improvements. Djm's version represents an amalgamation of these roughly at the mid-point of the design cycle. It has the nice looking ramp and input hopper and a small sensible output ramp. Later versions included a much longer (and less practical) output ramp. I built the model directly from djm's instructions which worked great, but there were a few things I wanted to change: The bottom of the input hopper has a significant flat spot where balls can stall and not make it into the spiral lift. It is not unusual for 5 or 6 dead balls to accumulate here. I changed the slopes at the bottom of the hopper to more forcefully drive them into the lift. I can't tell whether or not Akiyuki did the same thing based on the views in the videos, but I think he did something similar. The frame is weak torsionally because it has only a bottom rail. This makes the model fragile and a bit hard to move around. Later versions of Akiyuki's module added a top rail, so I added one as well. This makes the model very sturdy. Later versions from Akiyuki included some transparent side windows on the input hopper to make the mechanism more visible. I added these. The image below compares djm's version 1 with my version 2: Visually, the changes don't look like much but it was quite a challenge to integrate them without screwing up any of the other mechanical or structural features. The windows, in particular, took me forever but I am pretty proud of my solution which uses train windows to allow the flags to protrude into the support column. Again, I can't be certain if Akiyuki did it the same way based on the videos. Because of all the variations over time, there is no way to say that this an accurate rendition of Akiyuk's module or even a snapshot in time, but it captures what seem like the best features of all the versions (in my opinion). Some of the timing is pretty tricky here. Because all of the 40 tooth gears driving the cups are in series, if you adjust one by even a single tooth then it messes up everything downstream. I ended up using the molding lines on the gears as a datum and painstakingly counting teeth before I got it right. It is also important that the spiral lift drop a ball exactly when there is a cup there to receive it. This operation also requires single tooth accuracy. Once you get it all set though, the module is extremely reliable. It never jams, and any dropped balls roll back down the ramp to recirculate back into the system. It can also handle large loads of balls in the hopper without issue. For whatever reason, my wife is fascinated with this module more than the others. It has something to do with the sound the rhythm of the balls makes. It is quite entrancing.

Yes, but I took them with my retina and stored them in my hippocampus. It turns out Eurobricks doesn't support that format. Stupid outdated software .....

I just found this set at my local Toys R Us. I was surprised to find that the pullback motor didn't work. An inserted axle just spun freely in either direction. I got out my jewelers screwdrivers and took it apart and couldn't find any obvious problem. When I put it back together it worked fine. Go figure. In any case, now I know what the inside looks like!

That's the best functioning LEGO drifting car I have ever seen.

That right angle joint is freaking me out. Doesn't seem like it should work, but it obviously does. I had to stare at the gears for a while as well to understand why they rotate the same direction.

I wonder if this is a case in which the B-model was actually intended to be the main model but then they switched it for some marketing reason. There is precedent of this happening before with 8284. I'll be very interested in hearing more about the Top Fuel dragster B-model. Thanks for the review Jim!

Awesome reviews as always. In response to your confusion about the apparently useless raising body shell on the dragster, they did it that way because that's exactly how real funny cars work.

I have LPE-Power's V-8. Stop by and I'll show it to you. Addiction is inevitable. It's the least I can do to return the favor. Paul Heatherington stopped by my table at BrickCon when he saw the Bucket Factory. Apparently the two of you are in the same LUG.

You can borrow my compressor. You have to have one to run an LPE anyway. I have made about the same progress! Yes, sorry that I forgot to mention that one. It is on my list as well.

Excellent, I'll get started on this one. He has both a beam and an axle sorting device which are purely mechanical (no Mindstorms). There are videos posted for each: That would be super cool, but if you felt like staying with the GBCs don't' forget about the ball cleaner! That looks like it would be an enormous challenge. As a status update, I am currently collecting parts for the Cycloidal Drive, the Fork to Fork module, and the Tilted Rotors. I have draft instructions ready for each. When I have tested them and confirmed they work, I'll post the instructions. Expect them in the next couple of weeks. After that, I hope to have a PDF for the Lift Triggered by a Stuck Ball and I'm hoping the Basket Shooter will be in the pipeline as well. I'm also planning an update to the existing Cup to Cup instructions. Lots of work to do!

Brick shelf doesn't recognize the rotation EXIF command from your camera. Just edit the file in any way (like resize it) and then re-save it and it will show up correctly.

Reading YouTube comments results in a loss of all faith in humanity, so as a rule I don't do it. I'm going to assume Akiyuki is the same. He does also have a blog though, and he always replies there but it is all in Japanese.

This was a result of the "improvement" after the initial problems with 8043. The new versions of the actuators have less friction but more backlash and wobble. If you can find some of the older actuators, you will find them to be more stable.

Sadly, I have no way of contacting him. I would love to have him personally involved in (or at least aware of) the project. As far as I know, he only uses YouTube, although the people who made the video obviously found him somehow.

The 8454 fire truck had stickers on discs in the wheels in exactly the same way.

You can do whatever you'd like! If someone else is already working on it, you might want to coordinate with them directly in order to avoid duplication of effort.

I've been looking forward to that one. I don't have any information on the state of that module. I wasn't planning to do instructions for any of the Windstorms modules (mostly because I don't have any Mindstorms) but I could probably be convinced. I have little doubt your wish will be granted. The spiral staircase could use a test build. Contact me off list if you are interested.

The pinned index at the top of this forum has a list of sets which have been reviewed. You can see what still needs review on that list.

As the person who made the instructions for Crowkillers' Gallardo, I can say that this one looks substantially different. I think it was merely "inspired by" the prior model. $10 seems reasonable to me given the effort involved, though I cannot confirm the quality of the instructions having not seen them. The model looks great though!

He is certainly very creative. It is one thing to make something complicated, but these devices are also elegant and even beautiful.

The mechanical linear actuators only come in a single length with a stroke of about 5 studs. The answer to "is there a way" questions is always "yes", but there is no good way without totally destroying the part and having access to a machine shop. These are screw actuators, so they hold any position without backdriving without power.