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Blakbird

Technic Regulator
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Everything posted by Blakbird

  1. I have been thinking about the zig-zag lift. Those who have tried to build it have commented that it jams a lot. In Akiyuki's blog, he also mentions this problem and says that he added an indexer to solve this problem, but there are no videos of it. I assume it is similar to the indexer in the invisible lift or other modules which allows only a single ball per cycle. We should probably try to find a way to incorporate this.
  2. Hard coupling electric motors is absolutely no problem at all. Yes it's true that no two are exactly alike and therefore the power they provide will not be equal. They will therefore draw slightly different currents. But as long as they are on the same channel there is no chance of one backdriving the other. This is exactly how many real life systems are coupled and I do it all the time. Philo did a practical study on this some time ago.
  3. Thanks. Note that this is not the automatic train loader module that many of us are familiar with. This is the much older and simpler train module. The link takes you to some LDD files, but not actual instructions. Has anyone tried building this to confirm it works? You work fast and I am falling behind! I guess I need to start trying to catch up.
  4. I finished building this model last weekend and it is quite beautiful and functional. The instructions were excellent as always. I had fun driving it around my house and annoying my dog, but I had to stop when he started eating it. The functions all work wonderfully. The only thing I would consider changing is the location of the mini linear actuators used for the outriggers. Because they attach to the outrigger off to the side instead of in the middle, they bend tremendously under the weight of the model once it is lifted in the air. However, moving them to the middle would be no easy task.
  5. Thanks! I will add it to the queue. I am really looking forward to this one. I would like it if this module could include a brick-built pneumatic compressor to go with it so a shop compressor is not needed. The air requirements are not that high so it should be possible. Can anyone recommend an existing efficient design? The short answer is that the instructions have the ratchet because Akiyuki used one (in his later versions). However, I agree with you. Having now built this, it is clear that it can run in either direction with really no difference in operation.
  6. Sorry it took so long, but I finally finished the comparison image showing both your telehandler and Jurgen Krooshoop's much larger version of a (different) Manitou telehandler.
  7. Those are some huge models! Sounds like you have your hands full with projects.
  8. For anyone who has already downloaded it, I've made a small update to the Catch and Release instructions. I had forgotten to put "4x" on the page showing how to build the grabber arms.
  9. I haven't included any Mindstorms modules in this thread. Every module listed in the first post is PF-only and so are all the instructions. We do have some enthusiastic users working on some of the EV3 models, but none are presently listed. Not sure what you mean by "control panel", but is customary to run the modules with an old 9V train regulator so you can run them from wall power and adjust the speed. Alternatively, you could just use the rechargeable battery or even a regular battery box.
  10. Sorry about that: copy-paste error. I've fixed the links.
  11. Instructions for Akiyuki's Catch and Release module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 86 pages 717 parts Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to jesuskyr who did the work making the LDraw file based on Akiyuki's video and creating most of the instruction steps. I then made a few changes to coloration including: Made the bottom of the module black to be more consistent with other modules Made the hopper ramps blue like in Akiyuki's version Made the crankshaft blue so it would stand out a bit from the frame Made the base of the output ramp transparent. I built this model last weekend. I found that it did not consistently pick up balls so I made a couple of adjustments: Raised the floor of the hopper by one plate The model is somewhat sensitive to the rubber bands that are used. I used a doubled up blue band and found that it was too tight so the downward force was not enough to force the jaws open. I changed to a small white band looped over only two of the three fingers. I recommend just using whatever you can get to work. The module works very well once adjusted. There is no timing to set on this model. The crankshaft geometry controls the timing of the arms, and there are no other moving parts. This is one of the smallest modules and costs less than $100 to build, so it is a good place to start.
  12. I just used trial and error. It is actually quite tricky to get it just right. There is only a split second where the first cup is in position to receive a ball.
  13. Seems like that turntable needs to be integrated into your Grove 6400 superstructure along with the linear actuator. The old turntable is the remaining weak spot.
  14. Thanks, I will get started on this in the new year. That looks to me like the old handle piece, 424: I think he is just using it a 1L pin spacer. He is probably not using the new 1L liftarm because that only comes in dark bluish gray and wouldn't look as good. That looks like the same thing, a pin connector plus a handle. I don't plan to release the files, however I'd be happy to help answer any specific questions on the modules.
  15. The amount of non-LEGO that is acceptable in a model is a purely personal decision, therefore no one else's opinion makes the slightest difference. Do whatever you like!
  16. Nice job with the mods. It looks really good.
  17. I've been trying to wrap my head around the size of this MOC so I decided to make a picture of it next to 8454. Holy %$#@!
  18. I love how good this looks at this scale. I'd love to see it setting next to Jurgen's Manitou for comparison. Once you have finished the MLCAD file, I can make that happen.
  19. I am collecting parts for this now. I hope to have it finished by the new year. I'll post my impressions when it is ready. Actually, several of the Universal Set forklifts have had this feature: 8064 8082 and even the little 8045 mini telehandler These sets all keep the forks parallel to the ground, but cannot actually tilt the forks. The models with tiltable forks do not keep them parallel. It is certainly possible mechanically though. Some of the loaders manage to do this with the buckets, as does Sheo's front shovel.
  20. Wow, that liftarm sorter is going to be awesome. I'm excited to see it work.
  21. A matter of preference I suppose. I still vastly prefer MLCad over any of the alternatives. It operates the most intuitively to me. Even though my primary computer is a Mac, I can't seem to get anything done in Bricksmith. I can't even put two parts together in LDD. Sorry for the off topic. This MOC didn't need any software at all! (Except a photo editor)
  22. The rotors only move smoothly when supported by the stands at the outboard tips.
  23. Instructions for Akiyuki's Spiral Staircase module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 126 pages 1923 parts Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to jesuskyr who did the work making the LDraw file based on Akiyuki's video and creating most of the instruction steps. The ReBricker then did a test build from my instructions and gave me lots of comments on how to improve them. After all of that, my own test build went very smoothly. A few minor updates to the file were made to make the model more reliable such that at this point it works perfectly. There is really no timing to set on this model. The input indexer is physically locked to the motion of the tower, so there is nothing to time. The agitator in the input hopper is not sensitive to timing. The build, as you might expect, is quite repetitive. This is a physically small module with lots of parts, many of which are 1x1 plates or cheese slopes. If you build it all in one day, like I did, your fingers and wrists will hurt.
  24. I just finished building this model last night and have nothing but good things to say about it. First of all, these are the best photo instructions I've ever seen and may be the best amateur created instructions period. Everything is super clear and sharp. The build itself is incredibly well thought out, sturdy, and compact. The model has no wobbly parts; you can pick it up by any corner with no concern. Functionally, everything works perfectly. It is a joy to operate this model. I highly recommend this model to anyone interested in forklifts. It is roughly the same scale as 8416, the largest official LEGO forklift, but is many times heavier and more accurate. Although I have no real complaints, if I had to pick one weak point it would be the seat. I think it is too small for this scale and would look better if it was significantly larger. Luckily it is very easily removed and could be changed with minimal effort.
  25. This seems to be a common issue with the Akiyuki modules. Obviously he does a lot of testing and refining before making the video and presenting the module to the world, but that is not the end. The modules continue to evolve over time. One of the most obvious aspects I've noticed is the outlet "box". At some point he clearly made a decision to standardize the outlets and make a frame which is movable and would physically lock one module to the next. He went back and added this to older modules, and newer modules are already designed with it in mind. Older modules sometimes needed more changes to accommodate the outlet boxes like updated ramps. In some cases, like this basket shooter, the inlet side had no structure to accept a connection from the previous module so you can see in the later videos that he added a whole inlet hopper on the left: Good catch on the changes in control panel position. Based on the few frames visible in the video, I would speculate that the "H" is a crank which extends/retracts the control panel. From a storage point on view, this would make the module easier to store and smaller and would be less likely to damage the panel or use it as a handhold. I'm greatly looking forward to the next steps.
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