Blakbird

The tall version has diagonal braces and is therefore better.

For any of the modules, I'd say about 10 is a minimum although of course it will work with only one. For a circuit with several modules you'll want at least 50.

Instructions for Akiyuki's Lift Triggered by a Stuck Ball are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 105 pages 1068 parts This is Akiyuki's smallest module so far. The ReBricker did the reverse engineering. I set up the LDraw file using The ReBricker's video as a starting point. My file differs from The ReBricker's in considerable (but not very visible) ways. Most importantly, I completely changed the gearing to be more like the original. There is nothing wrong with The ReBricker's gearing, but it is different than what Akiyuki used. The primary difference comes in the fact that my motor is installed one stud higher. This changes a lot of the gears and also allows use of a clutch gear and elimination of the worm gear. Having now built it, I can confirm it works very well. I also borrowed a small change to the slopes on the back side from jesuskyr's interpretation. Another difference is that I used 6x4 bent liftarms instead of 7x3 to support the lifters. Doing so requires some fancy SNOT (which I believe Akiyuki also used) to provide the proper pivot in the side wall: The model works quite well, but my one complaint is the color scheme. Most of Akiyuki's modules have a highlight color, but this one is very plain and therefore has nothing to draw the eye visually. I may experiment with some customization. This is a quick, easy build. If you are on the fence about whether or not to build any of these modules, start with this one. Enjoy!

Yes, the instructions will have Akiyuki's colors. I have a parts list but it is still changing as I make final corrections.

That's just a big tile. As nychase said, you could substitute the newer variant, but you could also simply use a plate covered with a bunch of smaller tiles. You just need a smooth surface for the balls to roll. It would certainly be helpful. Collecting the parts is a huge project. The question is, how much would you charge for this service? Awesome! I'll start working on those instructions next. At the moment I am building the Lift Triggered by a Stuck Ball to test my instructions. It is going well. This is the smallest module so far.

I think this model is more or less supposed to be a version of this thing. A pretty obscure topic, but also very interesting.

Sounds like a pretty good idea to me. Make it so.

Just when I thought I had seen everything, Sariel gives me something totally new.

Nice! I like that you used a LEGO compressor. How many cylinders did you use in the compressor? It would be nice to be able to display this at events without a shop compressor.

Maybe they were just referring to using it in the 2016 trebuchet competition.

You can hide out in my LEGO room.

Instructions for Akiyuki's Tilted Rotors module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 89 pages 1223 parts It seemed like it would be a simple matter to create 3 identical rotors each with 4 identical platforms. Wow, was I wrong. First of all, each rotor is different. Each has shorter arms and therefore the ball gradually spirals toward the center. Not only does each rotor have different platforms, but even within a given rotor there are as many as 3 platform types. After agonizing for many hours, I realized that at least the placement of the platforms had to be 90 degree symmetric, and a top view should prove that the platforms are aligned to allow a ball to roll from one to the next. They good good statically, but what about dynamically? When they are tilted, do they interfere? To answer that question I had to make an animation: The animation shows that everything appears to align perfectly. (Yes, I realize that the torque links in the animation are fixed and interfere with eachother. I only wanted to prove that the model would work, not make an accurate kinematic simulation. I've already done that for Sheepo's KA-32 rotor head.) Furthermore, once the equations for the animation were complete, it was an easy matter to render it again but this time with the camera revolving around the mast at the same speed as the rotors. This does a better job of showing the motion from the point of view of a ball. I couldn't help but notice how cool the stackup of frames was when I was making the animation, so I saved that as well. It does a good job of showing the overall envelope of motion: The initial build was difficult because I had quite a few errors in the instructions. All have since been fixed. Mechanically, this is a very reliable module but as Akiyuki himself admits, "The ball spilling is not zero". In fact, it was spilling so many balls that I was considering using some LEGO nets as a catching device so I could collect the dropped balls in an external hopper and prevent the gearing from jamming on them. However, it appears that the secret is the rotation rate. Only gravity causes a ball to drop from the waiting indexer into the first rotor. If the speed is not right, the ball will either fall too soon or too late and miss the platform. Similarly, the transfer from the first to second rotor involves crossing a gap and this only works reliably with the right speed. I found that the 7.2V from the rechargeable battery box was just right. A full 9V box is a little fast and you can't slow it down. A train regulator at full speed is also a bit fast, but if you throttle it back one notch then it is perfect. Once you get the right speed, it only drops about 1 ball in 100. This seems related to the little divot on the ball slowing the drop very slightly if it is sitting just wrong. Since the indexer is lifted by the passing of a rotor arm, it does not need to be timed. Although the lift supplies one ball per cycle to the indexer, the timing is somewhat important. If the ball is provided while the indexer is already lifted, the ball can easily fall. A ball needs to be supplied when the indexer is down. This is only timing to set up. There is one very important thing to mention about the build. Not every turntable is created equal. Before I started building, I had about a dozen turntables laying around. I found that some turned very easily while other turned with considerable difficulty. I don't think the model would have worked with the latter. I chose the 4 best turntables from my stack. I also found that if you take the turntable apart you will find a couple of small spherical bumps on the gray part. These cause friction and also stabilize the platform. I found that if you shave these bumps down a bit it reduces the friction and makes the model run much better. My model works fine on an M-motor and doesn't struggle at all. Also make sure that you use the 1x4x3 transparent panels without the side supports for the outlet ramp or the balls will not roll. This model would NOT work running backwards and in fact would probably destroy itself so it contains a ratchet to prevent that from happening.

I'm glad to hear instructions are coming for this. I have a long history of coveting Jason's models. I've built the combination safe and my son likes it so much that he is getting one for Christmas. I'll be doing the horse and Sisyphus when possible as well. Long ago, I made this render but never built the models in real life:

If the idea is to eventually make instructions, then it would be best to use individual lengths so they can be added in steps. Furthermore, it would be ideal to actually use lengths which exist so that it can really be built. It is a big project! That worm gear was introduced last year apparently as an intended replacement for the existing version but in a 3L length with a fixed attachment method instead of sliding. However LEGO pulled the design from that set (newer versions of the set contain the old worm gear). Apparently there was something inadequate about the design. No one knows if it will ever come back, so it could turn out to be a very rare part since the only way to get one was in the early versions of those 2 sets. Oddly, in both cases the worm gear was extra and only used in the B-model so it has never been used in a set. Works great in the GBC module though! By the way, for those who haven't noticed I've updated the montage in the first post with all of the modules which are currently complete or near complete.

You can always check the first post to see which models are still needed. If you are looking for another one to work on, I'd recommend either the Catch and Release or the Pneumatic Module, but feel free to choose whatever interests you.

Instructions for Akiyuki's Fork to Fork module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 129 pages 1743 parts Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to jesuskyr who did the work making the LDraw file based on Akiyuki's video and creating most of the instruction steps. This module went together very smoothly even with the first draft of the instructions. I had only a couple of observations: The model was much too slow and obviously did not support the 1 ball/s spec. After checking Akiyuki's video, I could see that his was much faster. A closer look at the video led me to believe that two gears on the same axis were NOT on the same axle. After fixing this, the speed went up by 3x and the clutch gear started working, so I am convinced it is right. Jesuskyr's interpretation uses 5 more stages on the snake slide than Akiyuki's. This means that the output is too low to pass balls to a mating module. If you want to connect it to other modules, it is a simple matter to remove the latter stages. When used alone the lower output is nice. The model is incredibly reliable: I haven't had a single problem with it. Like the Cycloidal Drive, it has a ratchet to prevent you from running it backwards. Running it backwards will not make anything terrible happen, but the "ferris wheel" will turn the wrong way. This module can support a large load of balls in the input hopper without jamming. There is really no timing to adjust here. The forks are virtually self aligning based on the fact that knob wheels are used which have only 4 teeth. It is really obvious how to orient them. The relative timing of the ferris wheel doesn't matter. It will still deliver 1 ball per cycle.

You don't see very many firsts in the LEGO world any more, but I can safely say that this is the first (and best) LEGO foil cube folding machine I have ever seen.

I've updated the instructions and parts list files for the Cup to Cup module to call out panels instead of train windows to allow the window pass-through. I've built this version and can confirm it works. I've also now completed physical constructions of Tilted Rotors and Fork to Fork. I found lots of issues with the instructions for Tilted Rotors, so it will be a while before I can get the changes incorporated, however the problems have all been solved and the module works well. Fork to Fork works flawlessly and just needs some build order improvements.

I know what you mean. The distance from the engine to the wheels ends up being different and therefore there is a stiffness differential. No wonder they occasionally get stuck in the Czech Republic.

Instructions for Akiyuki's Cycloidal Drive module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 133 pages 2081 parts Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to jesuskyr who did the work making the LDraw file based on Akiyuki's video and creating most of the instruction steps. Before I knew he had made a file, I was working on it myself. I started with the internal and external rings. I thought it would just be a simple matter of copy and rotate, but nothing is ever that simple. The external ring has 10 lobes but they are not all the same; there are 2 types of construction. Likewise, the internal ring has 9 lobes with two types of construction. On top of that, there are also the radial supports which are not uniform. When I finished, I had this: Making a 10 and 9 sided figure which is mostly empty in the middle out of only elements of only integral length is not easy, but Akiyuki makes it look easy. Even though it looked just right on the computer screen and the angles all came out perfectly, I was worried that I had missed something and wanted to confirm it would work so I made a quick animation. With an external gear of 10 teeth and an internal of 9 teeth, the overall ratio is 9:1 (reversed) so I put those rates into POV-Ray and came out with this: It looks perfect! (Incidentally, the inner wheel has 120 degree symmetry so I only animated the first 3 revolutions and then looped the frames. The effect is invisible.) It was at this point that I found jesuskyr's file and was happy to see that it agreed almost completely with my own, so from that point forward I switched to his file. This module worked out really well. There were only a few small tweaks I had to make to the build. Most importantly, there were a couple of things that couldn't be assembled and therefore required some pin changes and build order adjustment. I also found that the 3rd stage of the output ramp had a slope that was too shallow so balls would not roll down reliably. I adjusted its exit down 1 stud and then adjusted the attach points appropriately. That worked great. I also found that the feeder ramp (the little ramp that feeds the wheel) was installed too tightly and would fall apart after a while. Again, I found a way to move things one stud and remove the problem. After that, it works flawlessly. I don't think it has dropped a single ball. It does take a considerable amount of power and uses the capability of that L motor. This particular model does bad things if you run it backwards, so it incorporates a ratchet which prevents that from happening. If you try to run it backwards, the clutch gears just slip. There is minimal timing to set here. The only thing to adjust is the indexer to make sure a ball is released close to when the wheel needs it, but there is a wide acceptable tolerance band. You'll see a small turntable used as a gear in this model. Why? The ring gear of the turntable drives the wheel, and therefore is geared based on 56 teeth. The indexer needs to be able to release exactly one ball per cycle. Because the outside of the small turntable has 28 teeth (half of 56), this is possible. It would be very difficult to achieve this gearing any other way and could require many stages. The cycloid ring is not the only great part of this module. Don't neglect the 7 stage stair lift at the input hopper which is really fun to watch. Each stage is built differently and becomes increasingly complex. You can see what I mean in the instructions.

Done.

That would be OCD. And I do the same thing. Actually, I tend to align the "castellated" direction with something that doesn't rotate, and the smooth end with the rotation direction. This is to avoid any possible friction or jamming. I always do that too. It also bugs me when you can see red 2L axles inside a split. I also care about the molding direction on the 5x7 or 5x11 liftarm frame. I like the open side of the slots to be facing inward or down. How about in LDraw? I rotate all my gears so that the teeth mesh properly, otherwise it drives me crazy. And of course, all attached axles must be rotated to match.

That's one of the greatest things I have ever seen. Amazing work!

if you can make an LDraw file or even detailed photos, I volunteer to make instructions.

The latest news: I finished building the cycloidal drive today and it works perfectly. There were a few portions of the instructions which had a poor building order and a couple of areas that were physically impossible to put together. I'll make corrections and updates to the file and then release those instructions this week. I'll be building tilted rotors next. I'll let you know how it goes. The last two parts for my Cup to Cup v2 arrived (the window flags) and to my chagrin I realized that my clever train window solution didn't work. The flags interfere with the windows. I had to switch to 1x2x3 panels but they don't exist in DBG so I had to use transparent black. It works fine and looks OK, but now the instructions and parts list are wrong. I'll make the updates soon. If you are planing to build this model, don't buy the train windows. After that my next build is the fork to fork for which I have instructions ready. I also have a draft for spiral staircase which Rebricker has reviewed for me, so that will be next. He is also doing some work on the fork (different from fork to fork) file. And finally, dim is still working on the basket shooter, after which I'll take over on the instructions. So we'll be busy for quite some time yet!