Lipko

Nope. The only reason I don't really like it is that I don't want white panels for MOCs. And for the color vomit issue, I like it usually. I like that not everything is so obviously colored, like body is red, chassis is black, gears are grey. Wooo, I'm a better designer than TLG. However, in the 42000 colors do seem too random. the Unimog was way better with the red and yellow axle connectors. in my opinion.

The topic is getting to linguistic heights

I guess I have very opposite opinions than other AFOLs. I like the simplified instructions. Not that I couldn't build older sets (I could build the red test car when I was 7 and the 8880 when I was 9 without much effort), but this type is nicer for me. I don't get bored/tired so quickly with building. And for the random colors: I like it too generally, but in this model, it does look messy for no reason.

Okay

Um, aren't the whole thing is about Lego? I mean if an essential part of the model is not Lego (the surface of the wings), then the whole thing becomes pointless. You could make your own Foam-cut wings and stick them on some Lego body and call it flying Lego.

I think you should make dedicated topics about your specific problems, otherwise there's a big chance that your questions will be missed. Especially in a "....'s Corner" type of topics, where many people just look for images. Like myself.

What do you mean you are building it?

I know it's a standard but it's not forbidden to use an own format for the actual controlling. I would guess that even real CNC machines do that. With raw data you could store 2..3 times more data, and the fetching would be easier too. That means, of course, that you would have to make a small desktop program that converts the .txt to a binary file. But you already have the interpreter, so it's should be pretty easy. EDIT: if 0.01 mm precision is enough, you could even use fixed point representation too (0.00 to 655.65 mm), doubling the amount of storable data Okay, I don't want to derail the thread, keep us posted!

Are you sure what you are allowed to talk about? Isn't there some kind of Thesis privacy? Don't get in trouble, but it would surely by awesome to see the tutorial and the source code. EDIT: so, the whole G code is stored on the nxt? If so, then using a binary format would be much more efficient IMHO. No parsing and less space.

Well, any part, I just love looking and source code (is it really some C like code)? EDIT: for example the G code interpreter would be nice to look at. I did an interpreter/parser for 2D, but that was pretty specialized, so not too interesting.

Please, post a source code snippet

Building with actual bricks is the best, if you have tons of parts or if you are very experienced... I personally can't imagine designing a model without having at least two models built at the same time, otherwise the building would be cumbersome. What if you have to disassemble almost the whole thing just to change a beam? You can take photos while taking it apart then rebuild it again. Just for a part in many situations. Rebuilding the model while having the previous iteration at hand would be great, but that means a lot of parts. Maybe it's less problem in Model team, where you have less specialized parts, but in Technic, I see it as a more serious problem. With a software, changing a part no matter how deeply it's built in is a few seconds' operation. Sure, there are many traps, that's why you have to actually build the thing too after you have something in software.

My girlfriend says you take a Boeing plane, put a Lego logo on it and a stud, and you have your flying Lego. I'm breaking up with her.

I want to try in black, but no parts for that... I will soon have other pics to post, but the progress is quite slow.

Agreed. Just bought the 8109 yesterday for the 3x11 red panel, the wheels and the more of the 13 gear racks. I don't know any better sets in parts/price ratio than the 9394 jet plane. It has red panels that the 8070 doesn't have. The 9396 is also quite good: three of these a few of these , 2 transmission rings and levers, a big 36 teeth gear. I also agree that (especially in the first year or years) it's a lot better to buy sets than just parts. You can learn a lot in the studless system when building sets, you can meet parts you'd maybe miss when working with a design software. You can see interesting techniques, interesting color schemes (I personally love TLG's sometimes random-ish colors in the internals).

You can decrease the turning radius if you apply Ackermann steering and move the differential forward a bit (half stud, maybe a whole?) I like the new hubs, I hope I can get my hands on the 42000 set soon, but I think the more specialized suspension arm feels neater. A custom one can perform better, but somehow it feels a bit stepping back in technology. So new hub+old arms for me, unless I want something tough.

Sorry for offing! Yes, it's not an easy question. I'm more into cars, when a less realistic engine is acceptable. With a motorbike, it's a different story. I guess a transparent block would look lame too.

Yes I have. I have also seen covered real car transmissions, real cars without numerous little holes on their body, etc.

Are the differentials placed like on the picture?

My guess is that the motors and the electronics are so simple that probably the least problem is with them (and I'd guess that the motors themselves inside the Lego parts are off-the-shelf pieces, correct me if I'm wrong). The most problem is with the plastic material and the shape of the parts. I guess they can only use the Lego parts as reference, but the shape of the moulds is a totally different matter. The mould is not precisely the negative of the parts (the plastic deforms a bit when removed from the mould), and mould design and manufacturing is very expensive, they can't (or don't care) just play around and tweak the moulds to get the correct (1 micron precision) results. But these are just guesses, I'm not a technology person.

Thanks, I never really took the effort to understand how the Lego versions work, but this one is easy to understand indeed. It's good that you decided to post it! +pretty good photos!

I know flex is normal, I'm just wondering how flexible are other builders' cars. I know I can make the model as solid as possible, but if most of the Lego cars are this flexible, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. If I had the money I'd just build one of Paul's or Nathanael's cars to see those for example.

Thanks for the replies (keep them coming)! To my experience, adding more longitudinal beams is much less effectively stiffens the chassis than adding stiff corners (one of the edges of the corner should be longitudinal). My chassis has quite a lot of longitudinal beams, the images may be misleading. Even the "cover" of the gearbox adds beams, because the half-stud offset is achieved by the placement of the gears. There is always at least 6-8 beams running parallel. At the gearbox, there is a second layer of frame 2 studs above the bottom. This second layer can1t be seen on the images. The problem with corners is that corner parts doesn't fit in the chassis, but maybe I'll do something about it. The question is that if twisting is not a big deal, then I don't have to sweat too much on reinforcing it when (if) I redesign the chassis.

Hi all! My current studless car WIP model twists quite a bit. About 10-15 degrees under its own weight (when resting on its two opposite wheels) measured between the two ends of the chassis (body parts not taken into account). The model doesn't have PF elements, but it's quite heavy anyway. The wheelbase is 34 studs long. The twisting doesn't seem to affect functions (gears won't slip), the model isn't for outdoor use and isn't for offroad-ish use. The model seems to bear repeated twisting (doesn't disintegrate), hatches stay well aligned etc. So the question is: should I be concerned about this, is it a noobish mistake, if it's a mistake at all? How about your studless cars or official studless car sets (for example 8070)? The Unimog seems to twist quite a bit too, but it's not fully assembled at this time. Thanks for any answers in advance!