Ryokeen

I see i use them there already, the printed diff casing probably would also be fine, but don't want to risk it. But i changed the lower links at the rear a bit. Also i'm currently adding small plastic sheets to protect the electronics and gears from dirt and smaller rocks. Had a few more test-runs with a few non lethal crashes. Only one steering arm broke as i drove with the left wheel into a wall haha I hope i can make a video soon, but it rains almost each day atm. And while it's still wip and not fully stress tested i don't want to have to clean it that much :D Might also post another RC / display model soon, once i got the wireing a bit better looking and hidden.

Nice work. The choice of color, supsension(love the front one), choice of wheels and their fitting size difference, awesome. And that the bodywork can be removed in one piece makes one want to tinker with it and tune it.

You mean on the rear suspension links ? I got plenty of them in almost ever lenght :D But i don't rly see how they would help there.

Wow quite a few responses :) And i like the rowbar idea..amphibic offroad XD @Aurorasaurus and @gyenesvi valid points about the rear axle swingarms, gonna redo that part. It's the first part on that thing i build anyways so it kinda was made on the rush :D. On the rear axle i can move the damper mount more in the middle of the swingarm, but at the front, no chance with those dampers and brick parts. The dampers are around 2.5 studs in diameter so an upper suspension arm would need 3 studs space and that makes the whole thing unstable, i've tried it. Oh and even most offroad RC cars, even the big ones have the dampers behind or in front of the upper suspension arms. @Daniel-99 Well i just like to mix parts and techs to see how a project would benefit from it and if you got some rc parts or dampers go for it, might even help with finding the right spring stiffness or give you more suspension travel(and they won't break that easy) So far i only glued 4 parts, wich are the 4 towball parts for the steering as the clutchpower there was simply not enough. The Driveshaft is made out of a 4L axle, a 6L and a 7L carbon axle. The 7L is the one connected to the diff and so far none of them moved a single bit. The metal gears sit quite tight on the axles. One reason for that motor was the size, i've already used a 540brushed one and that here is almost the same size, so i knew how i could mount and connect it, but it is overpowered ;D For the start problem i'm simply gonna use a gyro. An anti-rollbar would need a very stiff upper mount, but due to bricks being a bit flexible i'm afraid they might loose their purpose. Btw insted of gueing the u-joints and the axles you could also try fitting a smal spring in there to push the u-joints in place even if the axle moves a bit. @gyenesvi So now for your questions :D It is rwd and i do a bit of downgearing prior to the dif. 12t pinion to 20t, then 8t to 24t. Might be not the most stable approach due to parts 32184 used as screw mounts, but so far it hold up. The motors weight is supported by a liftarm in the back, it just lays on it. I use rc tires on lego rims, think those are some 1.9" crawler tires, a bit wider than the rims but even with the foam layin they fit well. Yes the diff and the wheel hubs are from Zene and i bought them separately as i didn't need the u joints, receiver and so on. I just wanted to give those parts a try and so far they work. The diff was interesing cause it's closed, lubed and got bearings. That's also the reason why i use steered hubs in the front and back. Their 1:8 hub pack is like that and i didn't want to be limited to rc wheels only as rc on-road tires have just a few to small sizes(mostly 68mm) About the 4 link system, as i said i'm gonna redo that, it's just a bit complicated as i don't want to use the 3D printed diff as a structural part, so i have to somehow build around it.

Well where to start, after i got back into building technic sets, the urge to create something of my own took over and i started to look around places where ppl discuss mocs, building techs and so on. That's how i got to eurobricks and the topics about rc and brushless motors in the lego world took my interest, cause moving things are cool. The eagle truck and in general the various mocs daniel-99 made gave me the motivation to create my own trophy truck and see how well bricks and rc components match. It's currently still wip as it's lacking a proper bodywork and might change once i can test it properly(to rainy atm). I'm not the best at presenting so feel free to ask. Quick overview: 4-Link live axle in the back Double wishbone in the front 3250kv brushless motor on 2s Lipo Geekservo for steering All carbon axle driveshaft fully with ball bearings Metal gears and metal u-joints Strong chassis for serious offroad driving Underbelly protection So far i'm using wheelhubs from zene with ball bearings and their closed metal differential. The whole driveshaft uses carbon axles, metal u-joints, metal gears and ball bearings. I kinda tried to mimick tropy truck suspensions, so it got a 4 link live axle in the back and a double wishbone suspension in the front. Havn't figured out how i could add roll protection on the back axles as my first attempt didn't seem to help. The use of triangle geometry gives the chassis enough strenght to take a fall from around 50cm without any damage. Another way i used to reinforce the chassis is the use of longer m3 screws and mathcing nuts as they fit perfectly through 3L pins and stabilize them aswell as preventing the connection to get apart. Good thing is they don't rly damage the parts, as they work similiar to 3L bars inserted into pins, just better. As i said i wanted to test how well rc components match with bricks so the first thing was using a brushless motor. The size is almost the same as a 540 brushed one so it was easy to mount using some m3 screews and 2x 32184 parts, for now. An mod 1 pinion gear with 12 tooths provides the connection to the drivetrain. As the motor got quite a punch and high rpms i decided to only use metal gears on carbon axles seated in ball bearings. Additionally i lubed them with some lithium grease. Currently the total gear reduction is 1:10 including the diff. That gives me around 2500rpms on the wheels with a fully charged lipo and plenty of torque. First i used 9L springs but in the first freefall test one of them broke, so i thought why not use rc dampers ? And 1:10 scale ones fit quite well. Their upper holes fit the pin diameter and the lower balljoint connection got a 3mm hole in them. Some screwing later they worked like a charm. Might even switch over to only use such shock absorbers as they can be tuned better. So far that's all, if one got questions, just ask, if one got suggestions, pls let me hear them.

So before posting i thought it would be better to ask. I might want to make a few topics about the mocs i've worked on but i'm unsure if that is okay since they use quite some parts from alternative brick producers(like gobricks, cada) and also some non lego rc parts and electronics. So the question is if that is still okay for mocs, i've seen some topics about brushless builds and such but yeah better ask :D Greets Ryokeen

First off, rly nice model i like it and the added modifications for ppl who have some more parts are just amazing. Good job there @gyenesvi There is just a slight difference between games and a render from a cad software or studIO. Games render with tricks, a lot of tricks to maintain high fps, where as studIO/LDD povray just bruteforce computes an image. Rendered images in studIO or animations(which are just a series of images) are made with raytracing/pathtracing which gives more realistic calculations and is a technique that in itself is not easy to optimize. The thing is just that without proper data on surfaces, light, environment, even pathtracing looks like some image from a early 2000s game. That's where studIO is laking. So yeah it does take a long time and could be optimized better but then again, studIO doesn't use lowpoly meshes for a renderere so that's just a lot of computations to be done. If you're interested in that topic pm me, any more explanation would be way to offtopic.

And i share the same concerns, the back part with the large gears is problematic no matter what you do and the selectors could still move a bit up down, due to axle flex. As i said i would also go for the single servo approach as it seems more stable, reliable and simpler to build. I mean it's a tank so better have it sturdy and not falling apart once you want to conquer a capet edge :)

@SaperPL Not sure if it'll help as i would go for the single servo steering but regarding fixing the orange shifters a bit better: Not perfect where the big 28t gears are, but no obstuction and at least a bit more stable. The lbg bushes fit with the 24t gear and i've used the 1 beam i think part since i noticed in a build that with 2 bushes there is enough play that a orange shifter can disengabe a gear.

Damn that one looks fantastic. Your models bodywork always amaze me, they flow so nice.

Atm not rly :D have only started on my journey. Currently i use an absima 80t 540 brushed motor(around 20€) as i rather have more torque than rpm and first wanted to use it for a crawler or in a bigger tank. But with a 4 speed gearbox it's still fast enough in my delorean :D Tomorrow an Razer ten 3652 3250 KV should arrive as a somewhat cheap brushless testing motor. For me the criterias where, how fast the motor turns, as you need more gearing and ballbearings for high rpm. Price ofc ;) and torque. Finding proper torque values can be a pain. The motor i use has no problem moving my current model even in 3rd gear(think 7:1 downgear including differential, so around 720rpm) from a halt. And than thing weights 3-4kg :D

RC 1.9" Mud terrain crawler tires with foam inlays Got 4 of them and they fit quite well onto 56*34mm rims. They do bulge a bit outwards on the rims outer edges so ackermann geometry is a bit harder to do. But apart from that they have good grip and sit way tighter than lego wheels. Also the foam inlay fits between the tire and rim aswell.

Motors with 3.17mm shaft can use a mod 1 pinion gear with 12 tooths and those match with lego gears perfectly. So you can start with a 12:20 reduction or 12:36. 540 motors and most rc motors are screwed to an chassis with m3 screws which in turn fit trough pinholes but the head of the screw won't. Think further back is a youtube vid where one showed how a 540 brushed motor can be attached that way. And from my own experience i can say it works quite well, if you support the motor a bit at the back aswell.

Guys i get that you mostly want to give advice to @brunojj1 but first it's stated that he should not tell others what they should do or not do. Yet several now tell him how he should behave, what he should do. Sounds pretty unfair to me. It's said that he accepts an "ambadassor" role, well he designs sets for cada so yes i would assume he got a better contact to them than most. And if you're proud of your work for a not so little company such as Cada, you are free to state that and also maybe use your better contact to help others. Cada nor him(at least i did not read about it) officially stated that brunojj is and official speaker of Cada. So the community did their part pushing him a bit in that role aswell. Closing..think this won't lead anywhere

Small update from my side, they did send replacement parts perrty fast and so far they now work as they should. They do have some initial rolling resistance but for it seems like that comes from the type of bearing used. Positive to mention is that the parts are quite well glued/screwed together so a wheel won't come of unless something breaks.

Somewhere earlier in the thread, someone posted a pic of the used battery a HPL502852-5C-3S1P 800mAh. Just had a quick look at it and i would assume, that running 2 buggys or simply drawing that much current is just to much for the bat. It as a fast discharge rating of 5C. From what i know that would mean with 800mAh it can max deliver 4amps in total. Save a bit for the board it's easy to get above that. But yes it would be better to either lower the current before a shutdown happens or only shut down the port drawing to much.

Should be here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-150275/Loxlego/audi-avant-rs6/#details

@wower The diff is fine, just white which they said the color is kinda random. It's output axles need proper support as even the slights angle causes the diff to almost block, but might be different in a whole model. The 1:8 Wheelshups were a problem, but after a small chat with their support they are gonna send a replacement. If the new hubs work as intendet i can recommend them. The ballbearings are fine(2 per Hub), looks like they use MR 117 ZZ / 2Z 7x11x3 mm bearings glued into a cada hub. The connection from the bearings to the wheel(replacement for part 35189 ) is custom printed and at least seems to be a pretty sturdy print. Just be aware that the 1:8 secure the Tires with a screw in the middle so you need the 44 wide hubs without a center hole. Also be aware that the normal 56x34 rims won't fit In the peugeot-hybrid-hypercar kit they show a pic of the remote. But no idea wich one that is

So i was a quiet reader for some time, mainly about lego combined with rc. But since i ordered a differential and the 1:8 hubs from them and they arrived today i thought i should give some feedback. I might just have had bad luck but, so far i can not say that it's worth it. The differential has massive internal friction(if you hold one side it's almost impossible to turn the input) and i was suprised that it came in white. The hubs are unusable as they won't spin freely cause the 3D printed part is tilted causing the whole rotation axle to be missaligened. That's the case with all 4 hubs. @gyenesviI only got the diff with the adapters where you can insert an axle. The Clutch power on the axle is quite high but the adapter itself falls out to easy. So you have to brace that again which kinda makes the whole idea with the ball bearings obsolete. Btw. the Diff seems to be a common rc metal diff with a 2:1 ratio.