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aFrInaTi0n

Technic Admin
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Everything posted by aFrInaTi0n

  1. As you just asked in a private message about my experiences with my two units: I am not there yet and hope I can test em in the next weeks. Nevertheless for me the two units are an kickstarter invest and for me it was obvious in the first place that the first generation of a product may have flaws or issues - so to say you can put my two units off any list in your head for doing a callback, they are mine now however they end up, as I find it much better for you staying interested in your product and us all in the future having a cool product (and you finally then some RoI, as I guess currently you are paying us with your efforts of soldering and producing the units with "bare hands". Happy to support you also in the future for next rounds (after I finally may have time to test the 1st iteration :D). I was questioning myself why nobody is doing R&D in that field as I see a working design filling a huge gap.. Edit: The other think I would miss of right now: some little update in the main post with some written up "how to use & better not use" part or something. That would really be helpful to run it in the desired conditions to not easily cook one's units :D
  2. @Toastie time marker -> may be helpful for a person which is more into pcbs and functions of components than me... edit: but not sure how much of the electronics of the old & original servo motors may be related to the PU L Motors, as the difference is PWM vs old non-PWM? Just realized that possibility in that second.. :o edit 2: mixed two threads and had wrong, non fitting content in here -> deleted... seems like thinking is not my strength today... *sigh
  3. Question here: Have you opened a MK Servo once to look at the PCB? If I remember correctly, it has just 5 different contact-fields: +100 position "between" (>0 and <100) 0 position "between" (>0 and <100) -100 position (dont kill me for the greater / lesser than fieldsnot being changed accordingly... :P) I am still not sure from the cost / decision perspective to not directly 1:1 copy a "fully stepped" version or investing in some other electronical solution to read the values in analogue values. But I think it may have been "good enough" back then and as they are still selling those (or we are buying them), why changing a working concept which may just result in more prodution costs per unit.. :D
  4. If I got it correctly the calibration should lead to the PWM algorithms finding the correct stopping points on each side and should map the position to the range of the controller / the virtual input range (-100% to 0 to +100%). As I am no satisfied customer of Fortronik, my personal opinion may go into the direction of them possibly not offering the best product in regards of their software stack - but it may be my very singular experience which is kind of the same but other: Setup of connection and other stuff should work better, sometimes one feels just "betrayed" by the software doing things "on its own" which may drives at least me crazy very often... But to think in solutions instead of complaining: I would doublecheck if both endpoints have the exact distances or if they may bend from the pressure of the calibration attempt (possible solution: The amount of power for the calibration can be set between high/medium/soft - putting it to lower values may result in less bending & more resulting accuracy) The "suddenly going off center / doing crazy things" I can't really explain from my perspective, I have just an idea of the PWM signal getting another value and the buwizz software may missread it as "centered already" - because PWM signals of their exact position need much rpm for this to work, theory here is: too less rpm for the position-recognition ever being able to work in a sharp and precise way. Hope that somehow helps, possibly others may have better tipps, fingers crossed for getting your issues solved! Best regards Disclaimer: I am not electrician nor do I have deep knowledge there, but from what I understood of PWM, the calculation of the position can be done with the different phases which are creating the impuls(es) for the motor to turn. That all is done in a pulsed way of setting the signals - as I am an IT person: may it be for some reason one or more pulses may be eating because of real-time passing as the controller board may be still busy with working on the commands of the last cycle possbily leading to "skipping a pulse" in consequence and creating the "sudden" offset in center? That may be a question for @Toastie or @oracid - sorry for mentioning you both, can one of you help me out here to say if this theory may be total bs?! If one can, thanks in advance (I think both of you should have plenty of experience with PWM..)!
  5. But the latter is also true, at least there are GoBricks and CaDA which are resellers to other brands within the chinese marketwhich use the parts to then create their (possibly same model) sets to be published under their brand.. Hope I did not Voldem%$# with calling the other brand already, if so some mod may adjust to the better..
  6. Gave them my implementation but it is that easy to program - those are talented people and I guess they found their own implementation. So I am more than happy for them having the functionality included on their page than I would be mad about it - less maintenance for me Edit: Fun fact: lately before LDraw released their functionality, more and more Facebook users recommended it to other users - so it was a nice feeling of the tool being "good enough" to be recommended.
  7. Update for my tool: It is considered DEPRECATED as the ldraw site has implemented a functionality to download complete .zip files with all needed subparts / assemblies.
  8. @SylvainLS You may update your guide as LDraw now offers the complete .zip files to have all subparts included.
  9. @Arioh your pictures are not accessible anymore. (I recommend to use bricksafe.com :D)
  10. To be sharp, it is one from the manufacturer GoBricks (where MK buys parts from to create their sets from). This only allows for +90°/0°/-90°
  11. If the imported model doesn't show up in blender, you probably didn't set up the Ldraw Lib in the plugins options(default location is C:\Ldraw\, but can be configured, official site is ldraw.org). Edit: you also may approach me with the .io - I can dedicate my rig for some renders...
  12. Second user & time it happens... @Jim I suspect something not working out in the background...
  13. Nice add, but I guess he just wants to have the clear distinction between both sites. So I think he was not pointing out he will drop the other site, it was just in the discussion of the MOC-Page on RB itself, if I got it right.. "The reasons for this change is to decouple the sites a bit"
  14. Seems I am the 1st who received his units?! Thanks @NoEXIST - mine arrived today! 😍 Those are really looking great. Now I need to get me some lipos + a charger to start in some weeks with testing them out! Some pictures for the interested ones:
  15. Welcome! One thing to mention though for possible future readers:The aspect ratio of the original picture needs to be met for the resize taking place - just going with "/1024x1024.png" will result in a cropping of the original Image from center and no resize. So for having the resize applied, workflow is: Get the original aspect ratio of your picture Get the right value for the vertical fitting value from the right aspect ratio to fit the 1024px limit in horizontal from e.g. the following table from Wikipedia (Linkie) Apply them with /1024x____.png ("____" standing for the value taken from the table)
  16. I can recommend https://bricksafe.com/ - it is from the creator of rebrickable and offers 10gb free space for lego related pictures for registered users. Also they have a nice function to resize images via link, so by appending a certain string, you may bring the images in to the right allowed max pixel sizes of the EB rules (1024px max!). Just giving an example of how their resizing works: Normal link to the original picture: https://bricksafe.com/files/aFrInaTi0n/temp/Mirror-Render-Stage_16.png Link with a resize applied: https://bricksafe.com/files/aFrInaTi0n/temp/Mirror-Render-Stage_16.png/1024x568.png
  17. I may re-start my ranting series againt the vendor... They really seem to suck and are doing this shitty non-informing behavior AGAIN with their customers!!! Not complying to their given word to the community already once is considered bad pratice - but seems they did not learn a thing.. Right now I would really recommend new customers to NOT BUY products from Fortronik, as the company is a pita when it comes to supporting their product with software updates... waiting the second year for no (relevant) new features like a mandatory needed failover mode for losing the connection.
  18. Nice!!! So I quickly need to get the right other rc like lipos, charger, remote etc I reckon.. :D Btw the remote needs to be some special one? Sorry to just ask, as I lately not having much time to follow threads.. :(
  19. but its only same width for all 4 of a set, isn't it - so all are the same and go on the regular rims then?
  20. @R0Sch They could have been more soft - but as we both know this would lead to stronger wear.. And for the material hardening out it is the same for all rubbers.. so for me not worth to discuss. I think most of the people may just want to buy them for the looks - the rc field (with strong requirements) is considered a niche - unfortunately.. 😄
  21. I think for RC needs it may heavily rely on the temperatures, weight of the model and power to spin the wheels (and finally no moving parts melting or cracking... :D)
  22. @Lego Tom: I may just torture them on tarmac / concrete
  23. Just some pictures of the new CaDA tires. It is the 1/10 ones, have the 1/8 also here but no nice rims for doing shootings. Both sizes are exact clones of each other. Both are manufactured very well, profile and round shape given, for the softness aspect: on a plain desk surface they seem to slip more than they may grip. Full Resolution Image Full Resolution Image Full Resolution Image
  24. ah sorry, then I got it wrong from the gif / not looking closely enough :D
  25. @piterx put down the Manual for the MOC, as it is not really working "so well" from his perspective.
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