recklessGlitch

Uhm as I understand I do have the output coordinates already in the last three numbers, But i'd like to get something like one Euler angle between 2 rotation matrices to get the difference, any suggestion or hint where to get that? most things i found on the web tell me: these matrices are unambiguous so how do I use them (something simple would be nice using floats, vecor3 or maybe quaternions)

It is called a Centimeter and it's part of that new invention they use in the modern part of the world for a couple of centuries now, it is called "The Metrical System", sacrificing tradition for clean usability I don't understand why they did not go for mm (0.1 cm) which is more common, but the good thing: within the magic metrical system it is just a digit it to the left, aint that awsome? Sorry for the sarcasm, no offense.

I see what you mean, Thanks a lot

Hey folks, another Motorization: all Functions of the 1989 Batmobile (LEGO 76139) RC controlled - yep the Batman again... Without sacrificing any of the nice details: Cockpit is still there, steering wheel works, just all motor driven and I motorized the guns and the roof and even made a tailored sbrick profile. Building instructions: Motorized LEGO 1989 Batmobile on rebrickable Driven by 2 LEGO Power Functions L-Motors (1:1 transmission) steered by a LEGO Power Functions Servo Motor guns engaged/disengaged by Motor roof opened/closed by Motor special Sbrick profile with programmig and grafics included a lot of space for up to 2 battery boxes/control hubs easily reachable under the trunk hatch (details on my rebrickable MOC page) Watch a Review of my motorized 1989 Batmobile on youtube: The Batmobile from Tim Burton's Batman 1989 with Michael Keaton is definitely one of the coolest, it's not as funky as the 1960s TV version and not as tank as the Nolan version but in my opinion it's simply a beaute! The 1989 Batmobile is using over 3,300 pieces, and over 60cm long. I added a few hundred bricks, mainly LEGO Technic and reused some others. So I ended up with over 3500 parts and (batteries included) almost 3.5 kg. That's heavy! So I needed a powerfull drive. I was thinking about the buggy motors but these are large and I wanted to put the batteries into the trunk. So i went for a pair of LEGO Power Functions L-Motors. These are some of the strongest LEGO motors and very small and efficient for their power and speed. The 1989 Batmobile is sleak and lies very deep on the road so it is geometrically impossible to move up any small hills (or even carpets). It will get stuck with its floor height of less then a brick. So it will only drive on a flat surface anyway. So it can be build for speed instead of torque power which the 1:1 transmission of the two L-Motors will do: It's a speed build, literally. One reason to put the batteries into the trunk was, to reach it easily for changing/recharging or simply switching on. Another reason was, to not put them into the beautifull cockpit with its nice self opening windshield - self opening? Yes, now it is motor driven ofcourse. And you hardly see the mechanics on the floor. Okay, the Batman minifigure included is way too small for the car but I found a Batman LEGO LED light, that fits into the car. Just be carefull when closing the cockpit to not get stuck. Slide-open is no problem. The car’s turbine exhaust by the way does not drive the machine guns anymore (it does in the original) because now a motor engages them. So I could make the jet exhaust it look like a real jet engine - the only exterior I changed. To make the two machine guns hidden, under the hood pop up, just press a button now. The Batmobile comes with nice little Bat emblems printed on the wheel rim - try not to lose them while driving, they are rare parts. The set of specially designed tyres for the front wheels is steered in a very specific geometry. I took care to keep that working the exact same way because it works very well for steering. The Build was complicated, took me weeks to get it right. I didnt want to change the exterior and as few as possible from the cockpit. You shouldnt see the opening mechanics. And I wanted to have all the features working, even the steering wheel (though steering is handled by a servo motor now) Every time I thought I got it, something else made problems, untill finally it all worked out. You can skip the trial and error (and breaking old LEGO gears) part: I made instructions and made them easily readable, so you can have it speed build in no time. I believe everyone should be able to build a LEGO set and try to make my instructions like that. Now it's hard to say, which one is the best batmobile motorization I ever made: The Lego 76139 1989 UCS Batmobile has more functions: motor driven MGs and a motor driven roof, the remote controlled motorized Lego 76023 UCS Tumbler I modded however has a full steerable front suspension for the independen wheels. my special Sbrick profile with some automated scripts is included I even made a cable layout for the power functions cables and extentions if you ended down here you may also be interested in or

Y yes, this GameOfBricks kit is the one I used. Good set for the price. And if you get my instructions i will even include a 15% Discount onto their kit. Same for the batman tumbler instructions.

I will get the same kit for my birthday (mid of march) so will build it in in 2 weeks and make a video. Anyway, these light kits will work, with my motorization! Made it that way on purpose. They dont need much space for the bateries.

That is a standard 2 cell lipo battery pack. lipo batteries usually come with 3.6V (3.7V is the same) and you can stag them as any battery. so there are 2 battery cells in there 3.7+3.7 = 7.4. And no, 500 mAh is nothing. If you want to change batteries for your LEGO or cada or whatsoever you can use something called "step down converter" or "buck converter", pretty chaep on ebay, tell it to output 9V and they will do. if you want to do some serious hacking, you don't need all the rubish half hearted boxes from lego/cada/mouldking nor the expensive s-brick or buwizz, you can take some power functions motors, connect them to a 6€ esp32 microcontrtoller using a few other chips and controll your cars with bluetooth (app or game controller) or even build your autonomous LEGO killer robot to frighten the hell out of your neighbour's german shepard ;-P Did something like that with the big batman tumbler, check it out:

totally no OR. you can hook up rc components to the esp-32 even more easy than power functions. And as i said, you can use a battery of your liking. I used some old lipos from a rechargable drill (ryobi) but some RC lipo packs - no problem. So if you want to use those RC vomponents, go for it. Especially if you want to do robotics or just use a smartphone or a playstation controller, you can use the esp-32 and go cheap as hell. Or just mix. That's the point of DIY you can decide what you want and patch it together if you forget about Lego Brick like connectors or any other proprietary stuff. - only accept artificial boundaries if they help your creativity :D

Ahah! If you really want a poor man's lego controll, or just more possibilities than LEGO or buwizz or Sbrick offer (for example wifi :P, not to mention bluetooth or autonomous programming) just really do it yourself for example, in my Batman Tumbler I use an ESP-32 for controlling 2 Motors & 1 Servo (power functions) 4 independend lights, powered by any rechargable 9-24 V battery. That hardware costs about 30,- € kaching! :D more technical details on my blog: https://benjaminkiesewetter.de/private/lego-tumbler-rc-motorization/

Hi folks, I made a motorization for the good old big Batman Tumbler, if youre interested, seems to be the only one out there, the instructions and details are here. full front suspension with moving swing arms (those big things in the front that hold the wheels, like in the movies) Power Functions servo motor steering system, nicely hidden so you won't see it through the windows or in the front what's more powerful than an L-engine and faster than a XL-engine? Right, two L-engines! This motorisation retrofit is fun! Differential for the back axle, with those big wheels you will need it all gears run stable, no cracking suspension for the back axis using springs of the same size as those pseudo springs from the original set a retractable roof (no separate roof parts like in the original) a few other small modifications to make it look a bit closer to the original and make it more sturdy not to lose parts while working very stable frame

Thanks, put quite some Lockdown-winter-nothingelsetodo time into it :)

I got the Ecto for christmas and I felt the urge to squeeze in some remote controlled Motors. The new Powered Up have just the thing (although they are badly documented) One month after christmas I had it up and running. Tell me what you think. • quasi invisible • minimal invasive - all gadgets work • Battery replacement with no dissambling • light and sound kit still fits in • Lego POWERED UP Bluetooth Remote Control • no discontinued Power Functions • complete Instructions on rebrickable I made my first video about that: For this motorization I used LEGO's Powered Up Large Technic Motor for steering. That thing is just made to be used for the steering. It can act like a servo, because it has an internal position sensor. It is slim and dark bluish gray so it replaces that kardan drive below the front seat perfectly. Aditionally I didn't want to take it appart every time I change the batteries, so you can reacht it from the bottom.

I love that thing. And I was amazed about how they squeezed in all the gadgets. I also made a pretty much invisible motorization with Bluetooth control (Powered Up) Description on my blog Video about it Building Instructions on Rebrickable