1974

Why not just buy them off Bricklink, scan and mod them? 7067stk01 doesn't even cost half a dollar

All fine suggestions, but the OP did write :

Sure. I'm done buying new LEGO sets and my son luves all the old castle/city/space/technic stuff .. unfortunally, he's finding out just what Bricklink is all about, haha

I just wired a 40r/5w pot inline with this one : .. connected to a 4,5V battery. Worked fairly well If you can't find a suitable pot in the UK, pm me and I'll send you one

Sorry .. Potentiometer : 30-40 Ohm 4W Can't seem to find a UK dealer (Maplin got none, ebay.co.uk none either) That regulator Duq linked to looks nifty. Says 6-15V but it'll most porbably work with 4,5V too. Speed regulation looks to be a pian though (trimmer under the heatsink), you might wanna change that for a potentiometer of the same value (1/4W is fine)

You could wire a potentiometer inline, but it's not optimal. PWM is better and that is what PF uses. Depending on your electrical skills you could wire up an LM317 (find a datasheet, it's all there. You need a 120r resistor and a 4k7 potentiometer + some caps). This will give you a 1,25V to around 3,9V variable psu If you just want to use a pot, then you need to find out how much power the motor draws. If it's say 100mA, a suitable pot would be (4,5V-1V)/0,1 = 35r .. get a 4W type just to be sure

This is very good looking And it's also my preferred way of building. Studless is no fun

The EN looked like shit before, Now it's approaching something good You did well

If you have time + a BL store, you can get a Unimog cheaply from many sources. Sell the rest on your BL shop and the pneumatics will be free (or you can even make some money out of it) Right now, the pneumatics are worth 1/3 of a Unimog on sale The trick is to actually sell the rest and not use in your MOCs Do this with ten Unimogs and you're most definitely in pneumatic business

That's damn right ugly And, I'm a fan of Thomas too

Much easier to just reverse the wires in the motor. I'm sure I've seen pics here .. That's what I do

What Tony said. However, I'm getting tired of taking my trains apart and I'll not spring for TLG's overpriced box, so I'm in the process of making my standard boxes rechargeable. This will need som cutting, swearing and other non standard LEGO business so it's no for everyone I'll give notes when I'm done

It's never a good idea to parallel batteries. The more advanced the types, the more care you need (balancing resistors and what not) If you want more juice, you use the same amount of cells, but with higher capacity. This however, means going out of the LEGO realm I would not parallel standard LEGO batteryboxes (both types) as you cannot be sure that the batteries you're using are close enough in spec/voltage Also, with double the current capacity, you're approuching the safety of the wires used by TLG In short (<- bad pun!), it might work, but I'd never do it

If you just want the loco, you could buy a complete set right now and sell the carriages for a real good price on ebay and thus get a loco somewhat cheaper than BL'ing it It would not be hard - or expensive - to build multiple carriages in different colours than tan/brown

You can also just sit tight and wait. This is one set that resellers have horded like there's no tomorrow. Lots of people allready have it so I expect prices to actually fall when the resellers can't get rid of their stock at 2x retail or whatever You could also join your local LUG as sales amongst members tend to be friendly. I've gotten quite a few big sets that way (like Diagon Alley 30% below retail even when it was still available at LEGO.com, 6991 monorail at half BL prices and many more luvly sets) LEGO freinds are LEGO friends

Thanx for the review Definitely gonna get the whole line I think the exploding rock is suppose to be attached to the track and then you can hit the train Also, using an ordinary trainmotor with those wheels will make it go really fast! Like too fast for younger kids ... I have a train with that setup and to make it run smoothly I'm using a pair of fake AAAs

I guess it's this product : http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-11182-Pledge-FutureShine/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1364847997&sr=1-3 Which can also be bought in the EU from Amazone.co.uk : http://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1364847841&sr=1-1-catcorr However, If anyone know of a different brandname, that's available in the EU, I'd like to hear that. My googlefoo is weak on this one and googling acrylic liquid in danish just brings up a lot of artificial nail products Got a lot of scratchy trans yellow I'd like to buff up so I can has classic space

Eh? http://technicopedia.com/1996.html

Welcome to the Internet! No, but you'll grow old real fast if you worry 'bout crap like this

I'm in the process of photographing all my trains, so I'll have something to show soon The actual RC electronics from the old RC chassis does not take up a lot space (I've taken it out of the chassis of course) and I've just used a standard 9V battery with it. It'll make the little 7727 run fairly fast and I can use PF channels for other trains/cranes/stuff at the same time I kinda like that old RC chassis and have build some nice trains (imho) with it I've also used one of the old square block 9V Technic motors and it's fully visible, looks great with the rest of the grey train (diesel shunter, like the 7720). Don't hide those wonderfull motors I also saw someone do a steamer with a big XL at the front here sometime ago. Thought about doing a similar thing with the black 12V Technic motor also

Efficiency only matters with battery powered trains. You can also use the various Technic motors that's been released over the years. I've got about a dozen of the first generation RC motors, they're not that bad actually I use all kinds of motors. The old 12V motors with piston rods works nicely with PF. I've used the electronics from the first generation RC and put that lot into a slightly modified 7727. Looks and runs great The sound from the PF motor is not due to the motor itself, but the PWM controller (the IR reciever)

Here's a really good resource for inspiration : http://www.darkroastedblend.com/2007/01/category-trains.html I can spend hours reading that site (retronaut.com) as well

Reality is quite often more wacky that our wackiest dreams :

There's also this one : http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2740c01

China is not 'a new great market', unless TLG drop their prices way below what LEGO costs in the US (which is allready 50% of EU retail). So who is this pressrelease for then? Many companies have been caught in the 'china frenzy' only to have their 'partnerships' with local factories (actually goverment owned, on terms that would NEVER be accepted in the EU/US) selling products (or worse IP) out the backdoor I guess, this is what TLG is trying to avoid with thier own factory. IP don't mean shit in China Just as Jørgen Vig Knudstorp (someone quite important at TLG) said here : (In danish sorry, run it trough Google translate) http://www.business.dk/oekonomi/lego-tvivler-paa-kina Yes, China is in fact getting too expensive for quality products. But since TLG cannot even do proper quality in Denmark - and do not seem to care all that much - would outsourcing to a very difficult (economic/cultural) part of the world imrove that? I fear not