gyenesvi

Thanks a lot! I doubt anybody else would be working on new parts but you.. And if we wait for the Studio developers, it's never going to arrive unfortunately..

Has anybody seen custom Studio parts for the Audi set? It's missing the new wheel hubs and the tires. I checked @Philo's home page and they are absent in the 2023H2 parts pack, while all the Liebherr crane and Yamaha parts are there. Why is that? Any chance of making them @Philo?

Cool idea, and nice start, some sections are quite nice, and the conversion between the SP1 and SP2 version is a nice touch. Unfortunately I have to agree with others about the boxiness. And what's even worse for me is not the flat shapes themselves but all the clutter on the flat surfaces being built from many small parts. And it's all worse on the SP1 version, as that by nature has more flat surfaces. At first I thought it's due to part limitations of this being an alternate model, but now I see it's not an alternate of the Daytona set, right? So what's the reason for all the small parts, when some sections on the hood could be done much smoother by using more 11x5 and 11x3 panels? Is it that you don't have more? So I think the SP2 version is a better choice for avoiding the boxiness, so I'd focus on that one in the presentation and just mention that it can be converted to SP1 as well. But more importantly, I would use more of the bigger panels that you can free up from the cover of the second seat to build the hood section with less clutter. I'm especially not a fan of the curved line where the openable clamshell separates from the rest of the hood, that line gets lost in all the clutter. I'd try using 11x3x2 wing panels there to make that line more defined, and possibly give that section some curvature. Also, a bit less clutter on those protruding things behind the seats (don't know the name) would be nice maybe by using fewer larger wing panels. There's a video of the real build and some functions, it's just hidden behind the instructions link, which I guess many people don't follow. I definitely agree you should link your videos in here, as that would show the real build immediately. It looks better than in renders, and also shows the openable parts and the conversion, which I wasn't aware of at first look.

Thanks for the detailed video, it has bee really informative! The performance of the small angular motor indeed seems good enough for this model size. And I love how you adjusted the model colors for the motor :) Plus it's good to see a model with a single L motor performing well enough. I love the UTV as well, looks nice and drives well. These could be great categories for future Buwizz competitions as well ;) That tow truck is pretty cool, the transformation concept is genius, and well implemented! I like that you like to build such things just for the challenge of building it, totally understand that :)

Cool idea and nice looking model, I especially like the hood section as it smoothly gets narrower at the front. However, I have some technical criticism. First, the suspension seems kind of non-existent, it seems that there's more flex in the parts than the actual suspension travel, although there would be space under the fenders. The other thing is that the front fender wobbles around too much with the wheel. I understand it should steer along, and I guess it should also move up and down with the suspension, but the way it tilts forward/backward as the model drives looks kind of odd. I guess it's been hard to fix it to the wheel though. Can you show a picture about how that's done?

Many people would want to use their own existing controller I guess, so it should be possible to separate that out. Yes, I am only interested in parts independently, not a kit for one model. I want to mix and match. What does BM mean? This is what I need. But this does not list all the parts. It would be good to see them listed separately from kits, so that I can clearly see what parts you have. Well first thing is list all the parts you have, and for all parts provide clear photos and indicate separate price. Also show / describe how they connect to other parts. I want to know what I can build from these parts. It's supposed to be like lego after all. For example I don't even know what length of metal driveshafts can I build? What lengths exist as parts, and how can I join them if I need to? Also, it's still not clear what inputs the diff can have (just axle or U-joint as well)? How do I use it in a live axle? How do I join a U-joint to the input end and a straight axle to the output end? (though the output end is now more clear because the guys here posted photos, but from the website it's not clear) So does that mean that the motor has two pinholes in the front? Are there only two? Or more? Can it be supported on the rear end as well? We need connection info for all parts. Also sizes. What's the size of that motor (how many studs length/width/height)? For the wheel hubs, what connections do they have? (pins, axles, U-joints), are they the same size / geometry as lego hubs? What rims can I attach to them and how? Things like these.

Yeah, that's what everybody wants, but we don't know if this is it or not. The electronics just seems like anything you could buy in an RC shop, not more lego compatible in any way (no lego casing and mounting points, just electronics and wires). Well there's just one positive review either, who has actually tested some of the components (other than the seller himself, which does not count as a review). So I'd say it's pretty much a gamble yet. My biggest problem is that we don't even know what the components are exactly, and what their specifications are.. There is no remote included afaik. Neither battery, it seems.

I love these small models as well! There's a great challenge in cramming all that stuff into a small space, and you have some nice tricks in these models! How did you find the performance of the mini angular motor for steering off-road? I also bought that motor, but after initial testing it seemed quite weak, so I have not yet built anything to test it properly on real rocks. Was it strong enough for you to turn the wheels in stuck situations? Also, you power it with Buwizz 3, but it's meant to be powered with 7.2V system as far as I remember having read. Isn't that a problem on the long run? Are you running it on 100% power?

Now that's some nice off-road performance, and also good speed in high gear! It's great to watch that suspension at work. Actually, those axles would have issues if there would be differentials in there :) Those axles are from @Attika, and he had the so called quarter stud problem in the original version, which were built with diffs; in short, it would require to have lego axles that are about a quarter stud longer because of the downward angling of the driveshaft coming out of the diffs. With axles of regular length, they can slide out of the differential under torque, because the diff only holds them on half stud length, and so if there's quarter stud movement allowed, it can disengage. So this is solid exactly because it does not have a diff, and so the axle in the middle is a single piece connecting both sides, so it cannot slide out of the diff. And I think this helps a lot to make it good enough without diffs, because this way the wheels don't go in opposite directions when steered (as would be the case with a high scrub radius steering). So all in all, it's a nice combination.

Really nice builds, I love the drift car especially, great looking design! I also like the mini trial one with the realistic suspension. Though wonder what the 6 links are for, I can understand 4 + a panhard rod, but what's the 6th? Steering link? The event and the race categories also sounds interesting, I like that you kept the model sizes fairly small and restrictive on the electronics. I would like to participate in such events in the future, I wonder why it was not advertised around here? (or is it just me not knowing about it?) It would have not been too far for me..

By piece count this may be more, but there are quite a few dual ones there (left-right mirrored / two pieces that must work together / width variation on the same tires), and a few single-use pieces. I wonder if we take that into account (for example counting duals as single part) if we actually have more true novelties for this year?

So can the input end be changed? Can you put a U-joint in directly withou having to add a 2L axle? I think I saw that possible in the output end.

Well, because the developers don't care? I don't know, but following up with new parts should be pretty top priority I agree. Many people also raised this. There are parts that are years old and have not yet made it into the palette, even ones that are available from elsewhere (Philo's page). Though the wheel hub is in there (under Technic - Steering). Studio has a ton of small irritating bugs and weird behaviors about connecting / moving / snapping parts. I have filed a couple of bug reports - nothing happened so far.. At the same time they have time to start adding experimental features like auto-generation of build sequences, something that is super difficult to achieve properly. I believe they should focus on the basics first. Also the graphics rendering could be improved a lot. Making animations is pretty impossible if you don't have a powerhouse at home. But this graphics workload is nothing compared to today's games, which can run in real time.. So I think it's just weak implementation..

Thanks! It is a single servo placed in the middle, you can see it on the renders above.

Okay, I have heard about motors that have screw points at 16mm distance, so do you simply screw them into the pinhole then? About the kv rating, I understand that, but is the 3:1 gearing that you mention inside the motor? There's one thing though I don't understand about kv rating and maybe you can help; I see sometimes that the same motor (same brand, same size) is available with different kv ratings. I get that the one with a bigger kv rating will be faster. But does that mean that it will also be weaker in terms of torque? In other words, does the one with the lower kv rating have more torque while being slower? Or is the lower one simply slower at the same torque (so less power overall)? I'd be interested in slower but more powerful motors for off-roaders. Ad one more thing: do you guys have some tricks to mount batteries to lego parts, or do you just throw them onto the frame somewhere? I have seen somebody attaching them to 5x7 frames or something like that..

Looks powerful! I have been wondering how the motor is fixed to lego parts? Does it have attachment points in the front only? What kind of? Is that enough? Another thing I have been wondering is whether the system is best to be used safely (that is, avoiding any melting and axle twisting) by only running metal axles through liftarms with ball-bearing and O/H frames, and also connecting with meatal U-joints. But I see you use them more liberally, even included gearing. I'd been thinking what drivetrains would be possible through 'safe' operation. I'd like to use such a system for 4x4 cars and those would definitely require some gearing to allow directing the motor output in two directions. Wonder if it is possible with using only metal / beared components everywhere? And if you violate that 'safety' rule (run axles through non-beared liftarms for example), how fast you get to pay for it.. For example, did your plastic gears suffer?

Here is the promised action video :) Also, free building instructions are available on Rebrickable, and more photos are available on Bricksafe. And 68mm RC4WD Brick Edition tires are perfect fit for this model, especially with white rims :)

Yeah I understand it can be problematic with 4 buggy motors, but with 1-2 L motors it cand efinitelt be useful. My assumption would be that it’s the smaller scales where you really need to spare that 1 stud of length out of the gearbox. For bigger models you can just probably fit the 3L ring. Another area of potential use of the 2L ring would be a diff lock, there usually there is no space for the 3L ring. I wonder how important torque resistance is in that case.. Do you think the diff lock puts much torque on driving ring, it being pushed out of the diff?

Thanks for the info! Is that also true for the input side of the diff? For that, the shiny metal piece on the input side would need to be possible to be taken out and replaced by the U-joint, as it seems to be the case on the putput size. Is it like that? Well I also use those words differently. Gearing up is when the speed goes up for me.

Wow, I have just seen this, it looks fantastic, really clean lines, nice part usages, and glad you filled it with interesting functions as well. Great B model! I can really relate to that one :)

Thanks for the images, it seems promising, though I am a bit more worried about the friction, it seems to be too much squeezed onto the gear. Not sure why the ring groove would have to handle serious torque? I don't think there's much torque acting in that direction, pushing the ring out of the gear (as it is perpendicular to the spinning direction, and that's where the lot of torque acts), a small obstacle can be enough to keep it in place. In case of manual gearboxes, the ridges on the connector on which the ring is sitting is enough to keep it in place most of the time. True that under much torque, after getting some wear it would click. But the wave selector is definitely going to hold it better than the connector's ridges. That's really easy: the gearbox motor will lock the orange selector in place. BTW, I guess this piece is not compatible with the old 2L ridged connectors..? That would also lock it in place by a click. But the ring does not seem to have openings in the middle, those would be required for that click. So I guess this ring is not going to work for a manual gearbox with the red changeover catch..

Why would it be geared up? Small gear on input, larger gear on output means gearing down. It's like all lego differentials. That looks neat. Does the U-joint have lego axle hole on one end? And the diff when used without the U-joint? Or do they accept metal (hex) axles? How deep does the U-joint go in the input end of the diff? How far out will be the flex point?

I guess you mean the one on this picture, but in a standalone package. https://www.zenelego.com/collections/technics-rc/products/power-functions-rc-accessories-compatible-lego-technic-plus-rc-motor-set-1 That could be useful, and also the other parts in the package sound interesting, but it is strange that for the package, there are no images of the other components. I'd be interested, but for 100+ Euros, I'd expect to see what I am buying.. For example, does the motor have a housing to attach it to lego parts? And, no clue what a "bearing drive axle" means, any ideas? Is that a wheel hub? The package does not seem to have one otherwise. Also, if I want components for an AWD car, I'd need to double up some components (like the diff), but not the motor and the ESC.. This could be good but needs quite some improvement on the marketing / sales side..

Thanks for the photos, (un)fortunately, that does not do a good comparison, as they are not side by side, so there is still hope :) My concerns are not exactly the depth, but rather whether it even fits inside in the first place. That's exactly what I want to avoid :) Hoping that somebody else will test these out before I buy parts separately.

A simplification of this idea is when you connect short axles with 2L or 3L axle connectors, instead of using long axles. The connectors themselves already much stronger than bare axles, and in most situations you can get away with only using 2L, 3L or 4L axles, maximum 5L inside a gearbox. Those are much less prone to twisting and bending, especially since those are the points where the driveshaft is held securely in a pinhole.