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BrickDesignerNL

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  1. BrickDesignerNL
    @ekba maybe this post can help you
  2. BrickDesignerNL
    Why is the arduino needed in between? The Hub has BT as well, right? So can't we just let the hub receive the data directly from the Android app via BT and process it in python on the Hub?
  3. BrickDesignerNL
    There are more people who like to do the same as you with Windows machines or Chromebooks. So it will be beneficial for others if you'd publish your document online or even as blog/webpage or maybe even as a video, step trough guide. Where you tell, what mistakes/false starts you did, and how it eventually worked for you, and what you came accros. So that people who make similar mistakes, see how to recover to a working situation :)
  4. BrickDesignerNL
    The first time I saw them I though it wasn't LEGO until I build this one: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8851-1 The upper part rotates using this par https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3403c01 that would easilly let go of the top, so it's joined together with these (trough the center hole) so it won't fall off when lifting some heavy load. On normal axles and using normal bushes these would probably get lose over time.
  5. BrickDesignerNL
    Does anyone know what Lego part is used here on top for the eyepiece (foto is from 2013, Lego Ideas): I got some suggestions that it might be an inverted / inside out Lego tire. Does anyone know what tire it is? Thank you for sharing this! Very smart and clear demonstration. Now I understand why some Lego GBC components I see online sometimes have that unintended speed-up and show-down, while it should be moving at a constant velocity. Thanks, I've learned something new!
  6. BrickDesignerNL
    @Rudivdk and @syclone thank you!
  7. BrickDesignerNL
    Hi, I have ordered a few dozen 26287 via bricklink and actually found 2 versions in my order. One type has the LEGO logo and 42195 molded on it and the other type has no logo, no part number and has a notch on top. Is that common that part 26287 didn't have the LEGO logo on it? Or did I get an order with half real LEGO and half "other brand"?
  8. BrickDesignerNL
    The balloon with face?
  9. BrickDesignerNL
    I think you've nailed it! This is an extended model; just adding a 1/2 bush between the 12T & 24T gear (it becomes wider, so fixation and yellow axle changed as well) This introduces the "free gear" in the middle: When put on a flat table no-matter in what position the gear on the red axle starts, when you start spinning the 8L axle, the gear gets to the center and stays there, the faster you spin, the faster it tries to move away from the other gears. And then re-tested with the first build; evolves to locking. So in short; you have to continuously keep pressure on one of the ends of the red (yellow in the initial post) axle to keep the gear in place. So the ends of the red (yellow) axle acts like a switch: when the axle is pressed it starts moving until the pressure on the switch is gone or weak enough to resist by the rotational energy that wants to move out the gear. Building instructions can be found on rebrickable.
  10. BrickDesignerNL
    Thank you Raskia for the feedback.Would the 3L axle with stop and a 1/2 bush give enough stability as well, in your experience? And looking at it differently; would the pushing of the yellow axle to the right help to enough re-ensure the 12T gear into it's position on the axle pin? Or your experience is that such would not be sufficiently in durable operation? Thank you very much for the suggestion and feedback. Thanks for that feedback, I'll look for better angles next posts!
  11. BrickDesignerNL
    25214 (the elbow piece) has axle holes - there is no version with pin holes in production at the moment, so the 2476 with pin does not fit, below is an alternative with 18677 and 36840, and to get a symmetric visual I've used a 1x1 plate. An other alternative can be using the 2x2 turnable base and 2x4 Technic plate: the white 2x2 tunable base (27448) can also be used as foot.
  12. BrickDesignerNL
    I'm working on a small model that needs to revers it's pattern when it hits the end, and again when it's at the start (like auto-reverse in an old cassette deck). This is the first concept draft I made using only pieces from 51515-1 and no clutch gears and driving ring, and utilizing the "double bevel" feature of the gears. Resulting in a 2.5L instead of 5L gear width. How it functions The long axle turns, the 12 gear double bevel on the yellow axle can be pressed in two sides, press left and it turns in the same speed and direction, press right and it will turn in the opposite direction of the black axle. Part list and building instruction can be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-65251/BrickDesignerNL/easy-push-to-reverse-gear/ TODO I would like the reverse to turn in the same speed as the forward. - so size will change
  13. BrickDesignerNL
    Thank you for the compliment. And good suggestion! Tanks! Thanks for the tips! I tried at first to fill the base plate with tiles or jumpers like this (this structure is optimized for positioning of minifigures in the strategies typically used in korfball matches). But I found that my kids loved playing with a field with studs better. It's a VERY GOOD suggestion you give to use the 2476 for the basket and the pole, why didn't I think of that! Thanks! @higgings91 For details on how I made this build stable, you can look at this earlier MOC I made: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-52888/BrickDesignerNL/korfbalpaal-met-bal-korfball-post-with-ball/ I gave that as a birthday present to my sons korfball team, they build them directly outside on the pavement and started playing with them; trowing the lego ball in from different distances. I didn't notice them falling apart or getting lose from the base plate during play, but I'll have a look to see how to improve it. The set has one lose part, that's the bar of the high jump: so that during play this can come lose when the minifigure hits it during it's jump.
  14. BrickDesignerNL
    Hi everyone, I've created a post my first ever Lego Ideas contest submission: I hope you'll like the concept of this set I designed.
  15. BrickDesignerNL
    This is my first LEGO Ideas contest submission. Concept: one set to create multiple sports (more than shown here) so you can always build any sport you and your friends like with just one set, and start playing. The field is modular so you can I hope you'll love it, and will vote for it if you like it. Thanks! https://ideas.lego.com/s/ca:68a77abdd25247acb9f590a999774b55
  16. BrickDesignerNL
    In honor of Piet Mondrian and in memorial of his 77 years passing (1 February 1944), I share with you my Lego based interpretation of his work: 'Composition with large red plane, yellow, black, gray and blue' I hope you'll appreciate this. I've enjoyed making it. PDF building instructions and part list can be found here (for free): https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-51795/BrickDesignerNL/composition-en-rouge-jaune-bleu-et-noir-economical-version/
  17. BrickDesignerNL
    Just found this page https://lego.github.io/lego-ble-wireless-protocol-docs/ is this also for the spike prime / robot inventor hub?
  18. BrickDesignerNL
    (removed by user) OT: [sorry, I was reading an other topic and replied there but for some reason my reply ended up here, in a topic that I hadn't even seen .. ] -sorry
  19. BrickDesignerNL
    As earlier quoted the protocol used by the hub is TTL UART. And you can link two hubs together if you make a link cable with two connectors. Since it also has Bluetooth it might be interesting to see if you can find a lib that can scan for other devices, and then connect to them, to so then the hubs can talk serial (uart) over bluetooth between the hubs. The bluetooth MAC-addresses of the hub are exposed in code when you sync it with the hub (zip file contains xml with this info).
  20. BrickDesignerNL
    I thought let's bring this info to here for the case it will disappear elsewhere. Thanks @Tcm0 until now I only read people saying it was not possible :) So this is very good news :) # Sender Spike Prime or Robot Inventor Hub # Code by Gianluca Cannalire import utime import hub from hub import port port.A.mode(port.MODE_FULL_DUPLEX) a=port.A a.baud(115200) i=0 while True: utime.sleep_ms(150) p=hub.button.center.was_pressed() if p==True: i=i+1 hub.display.show(i) print("Send: " + str(i)) a.write(str(i)) if i==9: i=0 # Receiver Spike Prime or Robot Inventor Hub # Code by Gianluca Cannalire import utime import hub from hub import port port.B.mode(port.MODE_FULL_DUPLEX) b=port.B b.baud(115200) i=0 while True: utime.sleep_ms(150) s=b.read(100).decode() if len(s) > 0: hub.display.show(s) The above example code from Gianluca Cannalire to let two LEGO hubs talk to each other via a wire between them, if you press the center button on the "sender" it will increase the number (up to 9, and then starting at 1 again) and show it on the hub, send it to the receiver hub, that then will reads the number and displays it. His comments: Adding a small delay after the "mode.(port.MODE_FULL_DUPLEX)" you can fix the above mentioned error, as Nard Strijbosch suggested.
  21. BrickDesignerNL
    This is my first creation with the Robot Inventor set, 51515-1 , created in stud.io using LDraw parts as custom parts. I hope you like it and it inspires you to build. The PDF building instructions and part list are available at Rebrickable for free. I haven't build it myself because I do not own the set, but greg10 did and posted a photo. In LEGO Studio the motor cables are not available so; I recommend to use the 49283 Wire Clip with Axle Hole (also available in the set) to manage them so that they will not end up in the wheels.
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