MY1

im still trying to figure out how to do animations and stuff but I at least can build stuff

I got my sian for Christmas and I've noticed at least 5 missing pieces and some pieces that weren't used in one box ended up being used in the next box and I'm not talking about just pannels and flex rods I mean pieces in numbered bags. was wondering if anyone else had this problem

I have a MAC which I always keep updated. I use mecabricks and I really like it. while some people dislike the fact that it is online I think thats the best part, plus u can import stuff from Ldraw and LDD.

lol most of the pieces come from the landrover defender, the panels mostly come from the old mindstorm set and other various sets that had white panels, and then over the summer I bought some white panels and white flex axles and they took an awfully long time to arrive. I also got the Lambo for Christmas but I'm not ready to take that apart just to get a solid body color

I got the Sian for Christmas and I've been trying to get a way to add limiters to the gearbox so that you can't jump from 1st gear to 8th but to no avail

lmao I think ur gonna have to take apart most of the car

I have done some more work here are some pics: so I have totally changed the suspension set up on both front and rear axles the first 2 pics are the rear axle. it now uses an L shaped lift arm instead of a T shaped lift arm. this allows the direction of spring travel to be less vertical and more horizontal. this makes the springs only 1 stud above the rest of the axle compared to before it was 2 studs. it also gives the springs less travel but since the car is already low to the ground I don't care. the last 2 pics are the front axle suspension setup. this new setup kinda fits inside the axle and allows for the same turn radius and the same suspension travel. this is the rear-end clamshell hood which was probably the hardest thing to design so far and it's not really done yet. of this placing the white panels on the edge to be in the right direction while also being sturdy was quite the challenge. I came up with this solution of using an angle connector, number 3, connected to a weird triangle piece with axles coming out of it, to get the correct direction. the panels with the gray beam still have a lot of play in them. and I have not yet figured out a way to attach the clamshell in a way that most represents the movement of the real car. this is the rear bumper. its still pretty crude and needs some work

probably not especially if he doesnt have a mask

depends on what you mean by lego technic, sets, loose pieces, what sets or what pieces. and also does this guy have a white van

same problem here

i have the same problem

here's my idea: so the first picture represents the gearbox you can have 3 16t gears and the red one, which my dog decided to chew up, is movable. the 2nd and third picture is the mechanism/ contraption. The first gear will be connected to the steering wheel so that it can turn whenever the steering wheel is turned. Next is the red gear attach the red gear to the contraption with a gray pin then attach the other end to a lift arm which can be connected to a lever mechanism in the cabin. This allows the red gear to be pulled in and out of the way of the 2 gray gears. the third gear is attached to the rear steering rack meaning it can only turn when the red gear is in contact with it and the other gear. While this might look like a flimsy structure I would hope and assume you don't turn off the rear steering while your turning, that being said there is no friction that could cause the red gear to come off of the contraption

I wish I could participate, I don't have any motorcycle wheels or shocks so I know mine definitely wouldn't win in terms of looks

I have made some progress on the Pagani here is a pic of the entire thing so far I have added seats, dash, better doors, and the immediately recognizable Pagani exhaust pipes. unfortunately, nobody responded to my asking about the doors. I decided to use a 7m flex rod try to get a pointed looking edge. I also put an orange slope piece on the end and a 12m flex rod on the top. here is the dash at first glance it looks like it's attached by the black connector pieces but then I realized that it was very flimsy so I attached the two technic beams to the dash and those technic beams attach to the frame by the steering column u can see which frame I'm talking about in the above posts. here are the seats. as you can see very high-quality leather, tri-colored and quad-colored. the top part of the seats connects to the pin with a stud which holds the seats from excessive amounts of movement. last is the very recognizable Pagani exhaust. I used the pin connector tube pieces as the exhaust pipe, they are connected to a half stud offset piece which centers them on the back of the car. interestingly I found that I had 2 mettalicy looking pin connectors so I used those Im sure i can find two more of those but for rn i just have 2 different colored exhaust pipes

does anyone know if LEGO will replace pieces that were individually bought? For example, let's say hypothetically I bought 4 sets of 1:10 scale tires and rims, and hypothetically my dog got one of the tires and absolutely destroyed the rubber. could I say that I have a damaged piece and get a new tire for free.

no that is brunoj's ferrari it is in 1:8 scale this is in 1:10 scale and that review is a review of a CADA product which isn't actually lego but pretty much the same. also that one is motorized.

ya I agree this setup isn't ideal, Sariels is probably more user friendly, to have pictures and stuff I would have to make a website and incorporate the program into the website. code sculptor is simply a tool that is used for running some code, its not really made for people to go to it as i have attempted. but as I said I had originally meant for this to be a calculator program which I could run on my TI-84 plus ce. I had never actually thought of it as being a language thing/ metric thing. for me if i search for the gear ratios of a Ford Mustang or about any other car the result is something like .3333:1. I too live in the US so for me i have just never seen gear ratio as being 1:3 in real documentation

so if you have a 24t driver gear with a 8t follower gear on Sariels the gear ratio would be 1:3 whereas on mine it would be .333333333:1 both of these gear ratios are the same however i have found that more often people tend to use decimals

I have noticed that while @Sariel has already created a web-based gear ratio calculator I myself have found some things that I dislike about it. First Sariel's gear ratio calculator calculates everything as being something:1 or 1:something, this makes it so that there are no decimals, while I'm sure he has intentionally done this, many gear ratios in real life are calculated as being something:1 My gear ratio calculator calculates everything as being something:1. 2nd, this isn't a big deal but sometimes people like to 3d print their own gears which are compatible with lego. Sariel's calculator is limited to only gears made by lego. whereas mine the user must enter in how many teeth are on the driver and follower gears. like I said this isn't really a problem but it leads me to my third and final point. 3rd Sariel's gear calculator does not yet have the new red differential gear piece 65413 as an option. but mine I have a little note at the top saying that the gear has 28 teeth. with that information, you can then enter in that gear. here is a link to my gear ratio calculator https://py3.codeskulptor.org/#user305_U6IzdyXIAHcj1Si.py. my original plan was to create a program in my ti 84 calculator that could do this, because a calculator is much easier to access then logging into my computer and opening up Sariels gear ratio calculator but as I realized that calculators use a very different language then what im used to so I decided to put first write the program in python then translate it. so while it doesn't look anywhere as neat as Sariel's it gets the job done. to run the program simply hit the green run button in the upper left and it will start. Please tell me what you think I could improve or changehttps://py3.codeskulptor.org/#user305_U6IzdyXIAHcj1Si.py

how do u find gear ratio is it driver gear divided by follower or vice versa? and also what happens if u have two sets of gears

I think u portrayed the real Senna pretty well however, i think that the Senna isn't the best lego Moc to do because it really made Me cringe when I say the gaping hole in the door and the holes in which the lights were

they should just use a normal programing language like python or java script

as I said I would put in some pics when I got the chance so here are some pics Ive I need some help on the doors because they don't seem to replicate the shape of the real door as well as I would like them too> here is what I have for a door right now I I think that using technic panel piece 64392 along with the gray curved piece above would be a much better replication of the real door however I can't figure out how to do so

UPDATE I have now installed a shifting Mechanism using @Gray Gear ball lever joint thing along with a safe shift mechanism because what I found out is that the normal white shifting piece 49136 makes it hard to shift accurately with the ball joint so I decided to use piece 42195 instead which forced me to use the safe shift mechanism. I also found that someone did a speed build of @T Lego Centenario, so I got some inspiration from that for the steering bc for me getting the rack and pinion connected to the steering wheel sucks. My next step is to make seats. I had planned to redesign the Defender's seat unfortunately my dog chewed up part of one of the chairs and one part I think he might have ate. I will probably post some pictures later when I have time

np