langko

Not sure if I like this car in real life but your's looks great so far! Headlights look at lot better underneath the panel, I really like those red rings at the front too.

Completely agree with this. I had done some testing with CaDA end of last year/start of this year and had experiences with these 3l connectors shattering under load... That was even with normal motors before the more powerful motors in the Apollo. You replace the axles, then you have to do the connectors, then the cv/u-joints, then the gears etc... then you eventually have a car so fast the wheels pop of the hubs when you drive it and the problems never end.

Thanks for the heads up, I put an order in this morning! First time since the new system... will see how long it takes to arrive to Aus. I got a set of yellow diffs to try out on an RC build, still much cheaper than trying to get them from bricklink... I got some 3x19 frames and a bunch of the newer black parts from the Ferrari/Mclaren F1 cars as well.

This looks awesome so far! Very creative idea, look forward to seeing it in action. It looks quite big, what’s the rough diameter of the wheel?

Good to know, thanks! Yes but its pretty easy to look at the original model and see what he did. Most of them can be changed to black without effecting the look and its easy to see the work arounds for the other stuff. The hose was the only thing that wasn't immediately obvious... I was worried it had been cut, that's a no deal for me.

Ok, I just hadn't seen them last time I checked and I had seen it mentioned here before. I know some people buy the set just to get the instructions so they can build it out of LEGO... No point doing that if the instructions are freely available. I had a quick look through the instructions and it doesn't look too hard to change it for the dark azure LEGO. Only thing I wasn't sure about was the 12L flex axle at the front... Does a 16L axle fit? That's the shortest in dark azure... What did you do in that spot?

If anyone is interested in instructions for the Apollo IE, they are up on CADA website for download. https://www.doubleeagle-group.com/cada-bricks/moc-v12-hypercar-c61053w

I understand what you mean with the clutch gear. The Cada version is definitely not space efficient in that regard. Thanks for the thoughts on the Jesko! Look forward to seeing some more photos with the Regera. How long do the clamshells/doors take to open? Is it like the Regera where you have to turn and turn the gear for quite a while. Some of the videos I’ve seen are very slow, which kinda takes the fun away a bit for me tbh. It’s a shame with the rear wheel steering, that’s a function you don’t see much of so would’ve been cool if it worked better. As for the wheels popping off I’ve experienced that as well with the Centenario rims they sell. It got so annoying I don’t use them for anything anymore. With the roof not fitting in the front, that’s actually accurate as the real one doesn’t either. I remember watching a video on YouTube with Christian talking about the car, it’s to do with the triplex suspension now in the front, as well as the air vent/scoop in the bonnet.

Thanks for the in progress shots and feedback, I appreciate it! From experience I think the sagging is to do with the backlash as well, even if you assemble it correctly. But I understand what you mean, its like building gearboxes and the like - if you press the gears too tightly between beams etc... you will add too much friction. Interesting to see the range of motion on the doors. If anything the Regera opened too far (say 100-110degrees), where's this looks more like 70ish degrees. Which is surprising considering the mechanism is so similar. Part quality looks more or less like what I've experienced too. Plus what's the go with all the instruction errors (and in critical places as well)? LEGO/CADA doesn't seem to make much difference lately in the regard... I can more than accept TLG adopting the odd ideas from competitors when over 90% of those competitors parts are copied straight from LEGO Definitely an interesting solution. For sure looks more complicated/harder to manufacture. How does all this effect the models they already sell? The Lamborghini and Ferrari both use the wave selector, are they going to start selling the sets with this new part? (assuming it even works with those designs?)

Wow that is quick! The few things I’ve got from China have taken 4-6 weeks (to Australia). Interested to hear what you think too, so far the only videos about it I’ve found aren’t in English... but by watching them the functions seem to be very mixed, the doors especially look like they work terribly (above video the person linked is 1 example). Surely we don’t need a whole new thread for that... we can talk about the model here.

Good luck with your project The new shocks look great with this layout for sure! And you avoid the issue of having them off-center like they are in the back of the SP3. Would definatly recommend red as the bodywork instead of white. You have much better part availablity in red and the final result will look much better.

Now I understand what you mean, and you infer correctly again. I've done some testing with the setup in a dummy frame... It seems the connector only catches when the blue gear is rotated at a specific angle (when a tooth is at exactly 12 o'clock), other wise it just passes between the teeth. I also think there is just enough backlash in the gear that when the connector does catch it still rotates through ok. Admittedly this is not ideal but it seems to explain why you can get away with it in a static situation. In a moving situation you are in trouble. Out of curiosity I took my Bugatti (pimped up version) and Lambo (stock) and testing the gear shifting whilst moving. They run a completely different setup to the Pagani so it was interesting to compare. Both models completely failed and I seem to have broken something internal in both of them... I also have another unreleased MOC of mine, I designed a new unique paddle shifting/gearbox for it. It uses the above mentioned microphone pieces, there are no interfering situations like you've mentioned, and it has zero elastic bands (runs entirely with soft shock absorbers). In a static situation it is by far the most reliable system I've ever used, yet I tested it and that still struggles to shift whilst moving. Which makes me wonder what one has to do to achieve that in a N/R/7 or 8 gearbox with a shifting mechanism. Is there simply way too many gears/knobs in such a system? Or will a manual system be too slow too operate under such conditions to work properly? (compared to the quicker shift with less gear/knobs that be achieved with a motor) In response to 1: I think any idea that is reliant on you choosing the right combination of parts isn't the greatest solution. The microphone parts work the same every time regardless. The Bionicle Eyes might not be a bad solution, they might just not be the best one. In response to 2: The Centenario gearbox runs of a different system and doesn't use the Bionicle Eyes, (also no N/R in the setup) so I think its a bit hard to use as an example. Have you tried the shifter connected to Anto's gearbox, and compared between the Eyes and the Microphones? That does make sense with the RC but I can't think of a good reason to put such a setup in a RC model haha.

To be honest I had never thought about shifting while moving but I have tested and it works at a very slow speed, but not when things are moving quickly. I had indeed gotten rid of both 35186's in my model, simply because mine was a stud more compact and didn't need them. The overall layout is a bit different to Anto's due the needing to block of the 8th gear to create only 7 gears. The 90degree limiters/blockers work a bit differently because of that. I'm curious why you think the driving ring (or lack of one) makes a difference in relation to switching between 4th-5th? My understanding is that it would the same in both cases, for me the weak link is in the shifting mechanism not gear layout. From experience the Bionicle Eyes on the knob gears (58176) are not ideal because they create too much friction. Using the microphone (90370) parts work better because they are slightly smaller in diameter and therefor have less friction. Sadly this model still uses the Bionicle Eyes as it was designed well before I learnt the above mentioned fact, and I just haven't bothered tearing the car to down to fix it. But that would definitely be a change I would make to the model.

That looks awesome! Even simple things like getting rid of those orange 3L pin with bushes makes a massive difference.

I've done some research and you are indeed correct on all accounts, I appreciate the feedback! This is a great example of why I would ask someone like yourself to go over my work before I ever released instructions for any of models, another pair of eyes is always good. (See top photo below for the Huayra shifter). I had gone with the logical (for me anyway) assumption that up shifts up and down shifts down. It doesn't help that my personal car only strengthens that assumption as it works that way... But since my car is a poor example of a high performance hyper car, cars like the Audi R8 (bottom left) and Bugatti Chiron (bottom right) also work this way. Morale of the story, don't assume and always triple check what your are doing. Good news is that design wise its a super easy fix for the model, you only have to change the orientation of a particular knob gear. I actual recall having it the correct way initially but I changed it because I didn't think that was right haha. I would be interested to see which way @Jeroen Ottens has it in his Huayra models. In his current wip thread he has written the following "In the right most position the shift can move forward/backward to shift up/down." The way that is worded insinuates (for me anyway) that his version works the same way mine (incorrectly) dose...

IMO out of all 4 of the CADA master series models this one is easily the least accurate looking one. I like the white and green colour scheme (better than the white Apollo - that was a wasted opportunity to do a really cool unique colour), but the scaling/overall proportions is out by way too much with this one... The rear wing has also been assembled upside down in the video compared to the photos on the website/box... You can see the stuff up especially towards the end of the video when they are showing the manual movement of the wing. (top is photos/bottom is from video) As always, its hard to comment on functions without actually building the model, as you can't judge things properly. But the function list does look interesting, especially around the 9 speed gearbox/rear wheel steering. I'm excited for reviews of everything. I noticed they didn't manually show the doors being opened which is a worrying sign, (given the known issues with the Regera doors), I doubt they'll open as smooth/fast as the animation... but I'll happily be proven wrong in that regard. The flaps are cool idea too but the activation process looks a nightmare. It looks like you have to remove the front wheel to fit the external tool... I feel like that just defeats the whole purpose. At the minimum I'd expect the tool to fit between the tyre and bodywork (like the rear key in the Chiron).

Yes I know what you mean with the "puffy" comment, although I think the proportions are blown out way more in this Jesko. Check this comparison of the side view. The entire model looks wayyy to big for the wheels. The front and rear overhangs are too long, and as you mentioned the rear is much higher (use the location of the rear lights as reference). The real Jesko has 265/35 R20 (693mm diameter) front tyres and 345/30 R21 (714mm diameter) at the rear. Average that out to 703.5mm and compare to the CADA tyre size of 80mm: Scale = roughly 8.79 if using those tyres. If the above length of 62cm is correct the would translate to 5452mm using the mentioned 8.79 scaling. The real cars length is only 4610mm... (hopefully all my math and car/tyre research is correct haha). As a guess the newer Ferrari SP3 tyres would help a lot, either that or the bodywork needs to get a lot smaller (Smaller rounded wheel arches from the Batmobile/Ferrari 488). I feel like Pvdb nailed the proportions a lot more with his smaller 10:1 scale model. I also have the same curiosity to see if it all works with the CADA pieces... I don't think this is even possible to be built out of genuine LEGO... Only colours with those wheel arches are orange/dark blue/dark azure. Orange would be the closest but I spy panel 24116 in the rear there which doesn't come in orange. The other 2 colours won't even come close with all the missing panels/connectors.

Maybe this is why the instructions for the Regera got removed from rebrickable? Looking at the video the chassis looks very very similar if not identical in some places, just with the addition of the gearbox/4 wheel steering (there was plenty empty space in the Regera chassis to fit that it). Most of the other functions: door mechanism with folding mirrors and selection stick in the center console, front flaps synchronized with the front suspensions, external tool in the rear to control the clamshells... all look the same. I must confess I prefer the look of the Regera, it’s just appears a lot cleaner/smoother. It’s a shame the curved wheel arch panels won’t used instead of the straight top ones, that could’ve looked a lot better. Anyways I definitely look forward to the reviews on the this one! And seeing how it compares to his Regera I have.

Well in my experience I must also admit that the part quality is terrible. Parts are way too loose, friction pins may as well be non friction pins they have such poor clutch power... The 3x13 curved panels are horrible, see the photo below. I have 3 of them lined up with the LEGO tapered panels on the end for reference, none of them line up... I had 1 especially that was so twisted it couldn't be used. Part tolerances with the connectors aren't great either and its quite common to have things out of alignment. All parts shown are from the "Ferrari", and the "Lamborghini" parts were not any better. Overall the parts quality is one of the main reasons I have refused to work for them.

Very cool B-model! Great presentation of the model although I would love to see some photo's of it built from actual bricks (not just renders). The front lights desperately need a trans clear dish to really nail the look, off course that's the limitations with a B-model though... I agree with a couple of comments above. The wishbones in the seats is very clever and awesome part usage! And I also agree with the side view appearing quite flat... James Miura B-model (from the Porsche) is an excellent example of getting a bit more shape into the side profile. But again I understand you are limited with the pieces. Thanks for sharing!

I quite like the white/red with the neon yellow deleted! I don't mind the all yellow either especially if a bit more black was added into it (maybe around the tail area), all red with black could look good too. Some combination of DBG/LBG/Black could also look cool if you wanted a more stealth type helicopter. I highly doubt dark azure would work given the limited colour palette... It's annoying how we now have more connectors available in neon yellow than dark azure... and the dark azure colour has been out for wayyy longer.

Yeah I think it’ll take a while for it to hit the normal stores, and a while longer to get a decent deal on it. I pretty much stick to EOFY, Black Friday, Boxing Day, Amazon etc... sales, haven’t payed full price for a set in a long time and that’s defiantly not changing now haha. I’ll let you know if I see a good deal for the Daytona. All the price hikes do is push more people over to the dark side, and when those sets are like a third of the price I really don’t blame people for doing so. This is true, and while I could admittedly afford the price hikes I hardly see them as value for money anymore (Even less so now than I already did). They could at least release sets without design errors and loads of instruction mistakes (looking at you Ferrari) and fix the terrible colour inconsistencies with parts (looking at you Lamborghini) to somewhat justify the $700 prices. I’ll stick to making my MOCs because the $ spent vs time/enjoyment you get out it is much much better value than buying and building sets.

I presume you mean the bike? That jumped what, $60-70? I managed to pick that up for AU$230 at an EFOY sale. Good timing now that LEGO’s bumped it to $389 haha.

Yup the price increases that were talked about a couple months ago are now in effect. The Ferrari has jumped $40 to $699 and the Lamborghini has jumped a whopping $130 to also be $699 Time to start thinking about retiring from this hobby...

Huge respect @Akassin, @Jim you are awesome for making this happen. Definitely made my day reading this, what a lovely thing to do.