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Verodin

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by Verodin

  1. Full price it would be way too expensive. The Tatra would cost 5000 SEK just in PU components. For comparison; the Liebherr R 9800 costs the same. This just brings home that TLGs pricing is just completely delusional. Now bricklinking the PU components makes these kinds of projects viable (for the time being at least). Now we're talking. If only instructions were available.... but he/she already said no in the comments And the new planetary wheel hubs of course. Hope they'll go down in price soon. I simply refuse to buy 42099 for the hubs, even with massive discounts. By the looks of it, stores just can't get rid of these sets.
  2. Oh I really like the crawler. It's like a little insect crawling all over the place. Don't know how to explain it, but it ticks all the boxes for me. I don't think the wheels are too small. For a real life look, yeah maybe. But the small wheels contribute to the funky look and work for me :D And it seems to be working great too!
  3. I have to disagree there (or we misunderstand eachother). Because with an sbrick you can stack, and thus all 3 motors per side will get power at the same time when changing 1 channel. 1 side per hub would (+1 spare channel per hub) works, but you'd still have to activate 3 channels at once. It is definitely doable, but I prefer to keep things as simple as possible. But... but... but... ah bah, I concede
  4. That was my original thought since I sources some additional hubs for cheap on bricklink. Running out of sbricks and the 2 hubs on BL costs less that a single sbrick. What worries me is splitting the 6 L motors over 2 hubs. Then it completely depends of software to sync the drive motors. So I'm hoping 4 motors will be enough to drive the truck (with changed gearing). And was thinking gearbox plus some lights on the 2nd hub. We'll see how it goes, so far it's only a growing idea inside my head. Yep! But at the cost of added weight ;)
  5. Considering the 'newness' of PU, I'd prefer not to cut any cables just yet. But I understand it might be the only option at this point in time. Plus I'm not in a hurry, maybe some official 'splitter' becomes available. Haven't even gotten all the parts for the MOC itself, let alone alter motors and gearing. Earliest coming winter when it's cold and dark outside Can always cut otherwise. Thanks for all the suggestions!
  6. With PF the motors will turn on and off at the same time, because they are stacked. With PU it will always be sequential and might cause excessive stress on each individual motor. Was thinking 4 motors instead of 6 and see what the performance will be.
  7. Speaking of Madoca MOCs. A future project would be building his 8x8 Tatra profa. Been thinking if this would be possible using PU components. The hubs is probably not a problem, but the PF large motor construction like below is probably not possible with PU. Any thoughts on how to pull this off in a reasonable way?
  8. Exactly what I thought when I saw the red hat. Grew up with Rien's characters. This would be perfect :D
  9. Since it was only once I'm not contacting them. Seems they have enough trouble at customer service. Their response times are already ridiculously long, I don't want to add to that with this minor issue.
  10. Off course not, but there will be no one selling this in the western world. Meaning I'd have to import from said country. Let's say a single cable costs 2 USD including shipping. Either it gets confiscated by customs or I have to pay handling costs for importing at only 5 times the price of the actual article. Not realistic. And buying bulk is not an option, how many extension cables does one need anyway? Without Sbrick, I've needed only 1 over the years. I thought these didn't have any connection holes, but I was wrong. This could work, although the price is only 150% that of the PF M motor and I guessing they are the same inside.
  11. Problem is that the PU connectors are patented and TLG has a history of hunting you down if you copy their IP. If anything unofficial shows up it will probably be small scale or they get sued :/ Btw, found this Q&A from 2018: https://lan.lego.com/news/overview/powered-up-afol-community-answers-r146/ It's a bit dated, but after reading it I'm left feeling a bit hopeless. Throughout the Q&A PU for use with Lego Technic seems like an afterthought that has low priority.
  12. Maybe someone already reported this, but I think I've found a bug. When I quickly want to test something (e.g. during building), I just go to the devices, connect and use the sliders. But the technic hub doesn't connect when clicking on an already known device. I have to search for devices first and only then does it connect. The search doesn't have to be completed, it can be cancelled right away and then it connects when clicking on the known device. Anything that can be done about this?
  13. If memory serves me right the device IDs of the technic hubs for example. The documentation has a table and newer devices are completely missing. Don't know if this applies to motors as well. Haven't taken the time to dig further into it. Kids kind of ruin your spare time that goes into these things :D But I have to be realistic. BLE is specifies all the needed tiny Bluetooth details and whether TLG or someone else completes the PU implementation docs/protocol/etc, the chances of it being usable many years from now only skyrockets. Nothing kills of a product as quickly as a secret proprietary protocol and that is fortunately not the case here. A plus is also that Lego is used all over the world by who knows how many people. This also greatly increases the chance of things working in the future. More people messing around with it ;)
  14. Same certificate issue here. Makes the forum practically unusable atm.
  15. This and the slightly bigger motors prevents a lot of the bigger mocs to be build once PF is gone. I recently build Jurgen's ultimate 42082 and that would not be possible with the PU system. Not to mention the lack of medium (technic) motors. I really want those, since the current PU motors are quite big. No they didn't. They published an initial version. Last time I checked the documentation/code all the Technic stuff was missing and has been reverse engineerd. End result is probably the same, but saying they published it, implies it's 100% complete and up to date. Which it isn't. 2.4 Ghz is just a frequency band, while BLE is a fully specified standard. Not the same thing ;)
  16. Wait, what?! With show I'm assuming you mean a single day, e.g. less than 24h running. That's a horrible lifespan! What's the MTBF for PF motors?
  17. Concerning the colour issues; I put photos in the quality ref topic. Spoiler, it's bad!
  18. From set 42114 that was released 1st of August. Colour inconsistencies. It's hard to take a good photo of these, hopefully it is visible. IRL it is clearly noticable. 32348 Liftarm 1 x 7 Bent - All are darker than the other yellow parts. 39793 Pin Connector Block, Liftarm 1 x 3 x 3 - Darker yellow, same as the liftarm above 15100 Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Pin Hole - Lighter yellow (or not a solid yellow?). Seems to be made of a different material than the other yellow parts. 87082 Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Center Pin Hole - Wine red compared to the red liftarm for comparison. And something new to me, fringes on 15100 Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Pin Hole. Multiple ones have this. And a misaligned print on the new angular motor: I tried to remain neutral about it, but considering the amount of issues within a single set, I'm now sure TLG has no quality control whatsever anymore...
  19. Simple mod; Replace the red 16T gears in steps 38 and 58 with the standard grey 16T gears and 3L axles to reduce friction.
  20. Just opened up 3 bags of mainly yellow technic panels in the 42114 set (6x6 Volvo articulated hauler) and was met with an unpleasant and intense chemical smell. The smell dissipated relatively quickly though. Since this is something that I haven't experienced before when opening Lego, I was quite surprised and wonder if anyone else has had a similar smell when opening new Lego.
  21. Aaaaaaand the various colour shades are here again... 1st time I see this in yellow though. Part 15100 (Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Pin Hole). TLG still doesn't have this issue under control, unbelievable :/ I'll take a photo tomorrow with a real camera instead of a crappy mobile. Edit: Sigh... once you start noticing, you can't unsee it. Wine red is also back (think 42107) this time for 87082 (Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Center Pin Hole).
  22. Here seems to be a better topic to place these things; This misaligned print actually bothers me a lot considering this is a 2800 SEK (~270+ euro) set.
  23. Checked and it's build correctly. Also same problem, same red gear between the grey gears in step 38. The gears are just too thick for the construction. It's premature for any conclusions, but I'm getting a nasty feeling that TLG is cheapening out on the moulds or something.
  24. Currently building this and I'm encountering massive friction in step 58. The red gear (18946, Gear 16 Tooth with Clutch on Both Sides) is grinding in between the 2 yellow beams. Anyone else noticed or having this issue?
  25. Was there ever any doubt? TLG is a for profit company. Their sole purpose in life is to make money. Fair enough and no secret, but don't for a second think they bought BL for our benefit. They will milk this thing any way they can.
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