2GodBDGlory

I've had a lot of fun in the past building high-powered cars at that scale! My go-to for power was 2x L-motors geared up 5x, though I did build one with a buggy motor once I got one. The light weight does wonders, and the small size at least gives the illusion of crazy speed. Have fun with that!

Well, it sounds like you're just slipping the internal clutches on the linear actuators, so you shouldn't need to worry about breaking any parts at least. I'd just try re-synchronizing it in the app.

I just tried doing that, sticking bits of paper clip into the hub, but all I got was a single sputter from the motor one time. I think I just couldn't get a good enough connection to run it, and I definitely don't think I can get anything secure enough for real stress testing. I think you're going to have to hold out for someone with an actual loose PU plug...

I'd pick the Lamborghini, assuming equal prices. The sets are very similar as sets, but once you get into MOCing the Bugatti's two-tone color scheme will prove an annoyance, while the Lamborghini's greater part count will come in handy.

That looks quite useful! I suppose it would be possible to make a similar one that would have the axle on one side and a standard Lego half with the axle hole on the other?

I'd test it with my Chinese buggy motors, but I don't have any spare PU cables. Maybe I can think of something, but I wouldn't count on it.

Yeah, there probably isn't a perfect solution. Both CADA and Mouldking have longer range hubs and proportional servos at reasonable prices, but I understand that many people prefer to stay away from that stuff. My only experience with Chinese electronics is with cheaper, no-name stuff, but nothing has broken yet, and their low prices should ensure that I at least get what I paid for. This is the best advice I can think of, but I don't mean to push this stuff too strongly!

Both the wheel and tire are listed as out of stock from Bricks and Pieces--this could very well be permanent.

My guess is that the limiting factor is in the electronic protection in the hub. Even though PU motors theoretically have more power than PF ones, I feel that the electrical system always lets down PU models compared to PF ones. Is your draw to PU for the long range and proportional control? If these things don't matter, PF works fine with buggy motors (as long as only one is used per channel), but if these are requirements for you, my only recommendations (assuming Buwizz is too expensive) are to rig up a DIY setup or check out some of the Chinese battery/receiver setups, which are cheap and (at least some of which) have the long range and proportional control. Buwizz is too expensive for me, so my current high-performance setup for my (Chinese) buggy motors is a custom battery of three 3.7V cells (from an electric jacket battery) in series, running a (Chinese) 2.4 GHz PF-style receiver.

Ok, thanks. So ABS is higher quality, but more work (and more expensive, I think). I'll probably stick with the cheap, simple PLA for now, but maybe someday I'll get more serious and move up.

Thanks! That's what my impression was, but I wanted to make sure.

Do people usually print Technic parts in ABS? How much difference is there between ABS and PLA for Lego?

My first thought is that the battery is simply hitting it's protection, since 4 Xls is a lot for one battery to run. Another thought: do you hear a squealing noise as it gives up? I have a V2 receiver that seems to give up and squeal quite easily. I remember building a MOC with one rechargeable battery running four Xls at once. I can't remember how I did the channels, but I think I had all four on a normal receiver split between the two halves. This MOC worked fine on flat ground, but would always give up when I tried off roading. I'd guess you need a second battery and receiver to get it to work.

Thanks for the feedback, guys! I'm probably not looking for stuff with great tolerances; I just want to print basic stuff that is usable. (Like the mythic 32T gear!) I'm not sure yet what I'll do, but I appreciate your advice.

For a while I've thought to myself that someday it would be nice to get a 3D printer for a variety of purposes, like printing Lego, printing parts for generic things I'm trying to fix, or other trinkets, but I always figured I would wait until the technology got cheaper/better. On a whim I started looking at articles on "best budget 3D printers," and was surprised by how cheap they have gotten. I have been looking at this very cheap ($159 USD, https://www.amazon.com/Voxelab-Removable-Printing-Function-8-66x8-66x9-84in/dp/B08SPXYND4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Voxelab+Aquila&qid=1635789034&sr=8-3) one that was recommended in these articles as a good (or at least decent) entry-level printer. Do any of you with some experience 3D printing know if this machine would have tolerable precision for printing Technic parts? Maybe for that I'd have to step up to something above this bargain basement printer, but I'm cheap and don't really need one, so I'm not really interested in getting anything much more expensive.

Building stuff that way is pretty common practice though, so I think any issues will be minor.

I don't have a Buwizz myself, but I know that one thing people have asked for is a constant power output for LEDs or other receivers. Would it be possible for a handy builder to solder up a PF wire to the small end of the appropriate USB wire and run power out of the charging input on the Buwizz? I'm not sure if that's how the Buwizz is set up, or what voltage you would get (my suspicion is that it would be the standard 5V of USB ports), but perhaps this could work. Just an idea!

I've built a few with 81.6mm balloon tires, but maybe this is the inspiration I need to take another shot at a dual-buggy motor bike with Ducati wheels. Then again, I've got a long list of MOCs planned, so that may not surface for a good long time...

I'm starting to think it was a mistake to start my entry last Monday! I'll probably be half done by the time the rules are out. Oh well, I guess that just means that if my model turns out to be ineligible I'll have plenty of time to start another one!

Wow! I can't wait to see the finished bike driving!

Overall, these models look unfinished to me. I think/hope they'll be more polished by the final release, like the Zetros and CAT.

I'm not an instagram user, but there's at least one video on YouTube now. I found it by searching for 2022 Technic sets, sorted by date of posting. The second-newest result at the time I searched had the images.

Very cool idea! I've got a motorized bicycle with chains on both sides, but that's different.

If I remember correctly, the alternate model of 42048 used those studs to mount a 2x2 round plate with hole, into which a pin with stud was put, causing the pin to bump up and down as the piston cycled.

I'm not sure how I'll like that, since I usually watch without sound and just skim through the text. (I guess I just prefer text over other media) I'll try it out later.