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I thank you both ;-) I decided to use the wheels without flange, because you can hardly see the wheels under the fairing and thus a closed body of the locomotive was more important to me. I think that looks better than when parts of the fairing create a large gap in the curve. The next step was a test build of the entire locomotive: Now one tender was still missing: With the colorful locomotive and tender, I could then perform test runs. Especially the behavior in curves and switches can only be tested and not determined on the computer in Stud.io. Have fun and see you next time. Thomas

Definitely. I will also come quite quickly here to the current status, but so 2-3 days this will take ;-) The reason for this is that I was not sure for a long time whether I can build something useful in the short time. I'm not a person who likes to make big announcements and then it becomes nothing. Thx Simon But back to the construction of BR05-003: After I had a "chassis" for the BR05-003 from 1944, I wanted to see how the BR05-003 from 1937 could look like.... First again a chassis design and side panel: I needed longer for the front. Round, angular, perfect for a Lego conversion.... Thomas

Hello together, we have the beginning of October, so time for an new OcTRAINber ;-) Whereby I will be honest: I started with this project already at the beginning of September (after the announcement of the topic for this OcTRAINber) and thus in the construction a month ahead. But I first wanted to get a feeling for whether I can even create such a project in the short time. I therefore show here in the first days the construction progress of September and then approach after a few days the actual state on my desk. Ps: for the readers from a German forum: please do not spoil ;-) Thomas

The TrixBrix double straight fits into the grid with a little more push. Not perfect, but also no problem. In my picture above are tens of these double straight with substructure installed. Thomas

I have many tracks/switches from Trixbrix from 3D printer in use and also many tracks/switches from Brick Tracks in injection molding technology and therefore allow me to compare them ;-) Trixbrix 3D printing: + high variety of different radii/switch types. + sleepers for turnouts follow the radius (better optic) - 3D printing surface, clamping force of the studs and counter studs - motorization of turnouts more complex (linear movement), but feasible - Geometry: more different special elements for rail yards needed (R104RC, RC1, RC2) Trixbrix injection molding (only a selection of curves/straights) + Quality better than from Brick Tracks (accuracy of fit) Brick Tracks injection molding: + surface, clamping force of studs and counter studs + Geometry: Brick Tracks gets by with fewer special elements for rail yards, curve R104B and the 1/10 intermediate piece is enough + Motorization with indicator easier (rotary movement) - fit accuracy. You can't build the turnouts and the 1/2 straights completely underneath, in one place a stud doesn't fit from below into the tracks and you have to use tiles there. - sleepers at turnouts do not follow the radius (worse optics) - Turnouts are easily destructible (construction weakness), so handle with care. Especially with motorization Conclusion for me: - I prefer injection molding over 3D printing. - for switches I prefer to use the ones from Brick Tracks (even if they are not perfect). Better surface, direction indicator easier to build - for straight lines/curves I find the injection molded tracks from TrixBrix better Background: 1x Y-Switch from TrixBricks, motorized Foreground: 2x Switch from Brick Tracks, motorized 9x Switch from Brick Tracks, not motorized: I can contribute less to the topic of import tax. In the EU, this is not a problem or issue through TrixBrix from Poland and HA-Bricks from Holland. GB has unfortunately chosen a special path. Regarding the curve radius: in my case, all switches/curves are designed for at least R104. I don't see the point in building switches with R104 and then using R56 curves. The reason for R104 are my long wagons/locomotives in scale approx. 1:45. This looks bad on R40 and not every locomotive of mine can still run on R40. Thomas

Because the videos show only successful attempts ;-) I had also tried it first without 2nd clamp. Has often worked, but just not always. Sometimes (maybe in one of ten attempts) the wrong car was uncoupled. Therefore, I have in my hump yard two holding clamps. One is moved away by a carriage and pushes the waggon away, the other remains in position and holds the other waggons. This ensures that I uncouple at the desired point. Thomas

Hello Thorsten, I had written the PU program in January 2021 and had no idea that there are ready-made commands for it. I simply programmed a loop for each motor that compares the target and current rotation speed and adjusts the motor accordingly. Since it works, I have not changed it until today. Therefore there are no problems with the PU APP and its bugs. I use a fairly current tablet, which also has a high speed. And you must not forget: the locomotive runs very slowly in automatic mode with 20 RPM at the motors.The locomotive also runs slowly overall, it is a shunting locomotive and a controlled slow speed was important to me.100 RPM is max speed in Hand mode. Here is a screenshot of the motor control part: In the picture: 2x control loop for 2 boost interactive motors in one locomotive v = target rotation speed locomotive p/x = target rotation speed drive 1/2 u/w = current rotation speed drive 1/2 Thx. I haven't presented the marshalling yard here at Eurobricks yet, since I'm still building it. For each exhibition there is an extension or it is what more developed. The whole thing is a long-term project and I've only done maybe half. @Feuer Zug: thanks Thomas

Hello Thorsten, Werner has already referred to my marshalling hump. This one uses ideas from Werner's decoupler. I then supplemented the whole thing with more Lego equipment and developed it into a fully automatic operation with the PU App. I do use it: 1x Technic Hub for the marschalling hump 1x M-motor for the clamps 1x L-motor for the carriage 1x Boost motor for the signal 1x Boost distance/color sensor to detect the coupling gap 1x City Hub in the V90 shunting locomotive 2x Boost Motor as drive (load control, the loco always runs at the same speed, no matter if 1 or 5 cars have to be pushed up the hill) 1x Lego PU remote control all connected with a Tablet and the Lego PowerUP app. On it runs a program to control the locomotive and decoupler in automatic mode. Here a video from BSBT2021 in Schkeuditz with my hump yard (from 3:45min): And there is another video from Grimmona with explanations from me about this yard (in german): If you still have questions about the technique: no problem, I'm happy to answer them About your turntable: fancy automated ;-), runs very well Thomas Ps: If you bother the 2 videos about my mountain here, let me know, then I delete them in this case. I put them here only because Werner has referred to it.

Hello Emanuele, Thank you for your feedback and understanding. I'm not bothered by the replica of you, that's totally ok and you only had the photos / videos and nothing else from me. You also mentioned the sources in the introduction here, perfect. That is all ok and no problem. You can always rebuild models for yourself and also show them. But what is not possible in my eyes is to create a manual from it and sell it. That was the point that bothered me. There was no question about it, there was no reference to the author when selling. In this case, the design / bulding technology on the outside of the coaches was 90-95% identical. There will certainly be many differences on the inside, but they are not relevant. If the differences were much greater, I wouldn't mind either. But here one could speak of a copy. I appreciate you as a very good moccer and definitely don't want a small war with anyone. Therefore: peace ;-) If you want, we can delete the last three posts here. All the best Thomas

Hello Emanuelle, quick question: are the instructions for the "Blue Enzian" at Bricks-On-Rails yours? If so, which is what I think by the name and appearance, I think that's grossly unfair. A copy/imitation of someone else's model is not a problem in itself, nor is a public presentation with mention of the origin. But selling a manual of such a similar model is not acceptable! Thomas Edit: After consulting with Bricks-On-Rails, the manual is blocked for the time being and they are looking into the matter.

Hello Sergio, yes, you are right. Fits. The picture shows it very well, the prototype is really much higher than expected. I compared the design with German locomotives, they are flatter and that's where my misjudgement comes from. Thomas

Very good work, great details and also like the color scheme! From the feeling the locomotive seems very high, but that may also be due to the perspective of the images. Or is the prototype so high? For 1:45 and the minifig I find from the gut the cabin too high. But I can also be completely wrong, it's just a feeling. Thomas

Cool, it's something completely different and very well presented. I don't know the game, but I smiled while watching the video. What is missed, was the trigger to drive off. The machine is wound up, how is it started? The text says something about a lever, that was not seen in the video or did I miss that? Thomas

What a great surprise that the little KöF won in its category. For me it was a great competition. Yes, the time limit was sporty, but it was also a good incentive. And also that you should show something during the construction, I think, this is good. That made the competition very lively. And when you see what was created by the participants in the short time: cool. The waiting time after the competition was unfortunately a bit long, but with the leaving of Glenn Holland in October 2021, the BMR probably had to deal with internal issues for the time being. But honestly: better this way than no competition at all. People from all over the world come together and exchange ideas. The world often lacks that... Therefore my thanks to the BrickModelRailroader for organizing this unique competition! Thomas

Do you have a crystal ball? ;-) I had you there first completely misunderstood and only after your comment, how you meant your sentence. You believed in me more than I did myself. Thank you. Thomas

Good luck, in 6w that sounds like a challenge! Hub is 5w wide, so left/right space only for plates/tiles. So will be slightly wider than 6w. 4 ports on the hub are of course great, I also have a locomotive under construction with Technic hub and 2 motors + light front/rear. But I build in 8w, so more space. Also note the height of the hub. Thomas

A high goal, but who knows, maybe you will succeed. ;-) The SMD Leds are great and the Köf with the side panels also looks good I built a KöF II in October with the Circuit Cube as drive and the use of very small SMD Leds and also presented it here at Eurobricks. So yes, a Circuit Cube makes small locomotives possible.... https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/187847-octrainber-2021-wip-köf-ii/&do=findComment&comment=3467743 Thomas

Hi Sergio, Next level in the development and construction of Lego passenger cars. Absolutely great job, I'll probably have to take a closer look. Am really excited, since my cars look like toys^^ Thomas

A battery box in an extra car would not please me at all, a locomotive MUST be able to drive itself. I fully agree with you. Yes, the circuit cube motor runs 1:1, but then the locomotive is very slow. I also use this in a very small shunting locomotive, there it fits. But we are talking about 8-9 seconds per meter, that is really slow ;-) If the speed is ok for you and you can even install 2 motors: go ahead, I have said nothing ;-) Thomas

Wow, very well built. It's obvious you have some experience with building these large train units. The front is really great and the color "Dark Organe" fits really well and I like it very much. Since there are hardly any train models in this color, THIS train is a real eye-catcher! The technology for the light in front is also very interesting. Thomas

Looks coherent. However, I would have concerns with the drive/transmission ratio. The loco is quite large/heavy for a circuit cube motor and this is very slow in 1:1 ratio. That certainly doesn't fit the prototype properly. Can you not create more space for eg an M-motor? E.g. use of panels/tiles instead of the bricks in the side wall? Thomas

Thanks a lot. I don't want to spoil your fun, but I'm currently trying to create a tutorial ;-) Thomas

Small, smaller, Fiat 500... The drive with the rubber band is great, much less space than gears needed. Too bad that you have to edit the small Lego train wheels, so that they are good as a drive axle. But that is then no radio connection, but only on / off via the switch? In any case, you can no longer build models with drive much smaller, "great". Thomas

I think the locomotive is fantastically built! It also took me longer to realize that it was built for narrow gauge. Quite great cinema. You had me with dark red anyway, one of my favorite colors in the Lego range. Not quite my taste meet the curved components, but these are not the key points in the model and the locomotive would look great even without the "abused" parts. Thomas

I thank you for the great encouragement! And now the last contributions: Video: I thank the organizers for the nice contest and all participants for the great exchange and the crazy critters ;-) Thomas