-
Posts
530 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Cousarmy0001
-
I recently increased the height of the wharf and ground level of my city project from two bricks to six, and in doing so encountered quite a bit of natural sheer (I considered it "sagging"), so much so that I had to modify the design to have breaks that would absorb the sheer. You may wind up getting the sheer naturally as your build progresses.
-
In my LDD attempts, the hull has actually been the easy part. It's more trouble than it's worth IMO to get the deck angled right in LDD, and I don't know how they would get the masts to angle in the right direction while the deck is sloping in the opposite direction for the center and aft masts, but I think if I had the bricks in person it would be relatively easy to get done. I'm not certain one would be able to build an interior, though, given the irregular distances between the sides of the hull. I stopped on this project shortly after my previous comment on this thread, but I may pick it up again later. Here's some pics of what I have so far, though. That's cool that he replied to you, Reload. That'd be awesome if we could learn more about this model from the two people that he mentioned, as well.
-
Almost all of those are either cogs or triremes, though. They're all quite well done, but these ships are also quite small, with equally small sails. Making the larger sailing vessels of the late 1600s to mid 1800s like we generally do in this thread would be more difficult, I think. The sails and rigging that we portray on this thread are much larger and far more complex. I think trying to do this purely out of Lego on the scales that we usually work with here would be much more challenging. Out of curiosity, how much trouble would I be in if I bumped that thread, just to spite you, Kurigan?
- 16 replies
-
- brick built
- Lego ship
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Poor guy must get REALLY lonely :-(
-
It was Phred that named names. (Edit: unless that was before the edit. Sorry.)
- 16 replies
-
- brick built
- Lego ship
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
I, personally, don't like brick built sails because of the studs, though in my book they're tolerable if they're depicting furled sails. As for your question, I would think a smaller sail set, like the carrack's, might be able to be supported purely by other Legos, but I question whether a large set like on the schooner could be built with any degree of sturdiness without involving glue or some other form of "cheating".
- 16 replies
-
- brick built
- Lego ship
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Speaking of Achille, actually, I have a question for you. I recently redid my largest ship so that the spar deck is now removable. I had to break it into four sections, though, to try and cut down on the sagging that I encountered. There's still quite a bit of it on the largest section, though, and the ship only has five center segments. Did you encounter any of this with the deck of Achille, and how did you fix it?
-
I never thought I would have something negative to say about one of your ships, but I have to say that I liked Achille better in red. The tan looks kinda dull in comparison. Concorde and Magicienne are absolutely gorgeous, however. I particularly like the blue and yellow of the stern faces. The yellow linings at the top are probably my favorite features of the pictures shown here, and as usual, your sails are amazing. If I ever saw your basement, I would probably never leave it- unless the ships did, too.
-
Which one is going to find the Rosetta Stone?
-
Well, that's disappointing. The masts don't exactly look sturdy, either. I've got it looking decent in LDD, and I think it would look good in an actual build, but now I'm running into how to do the decks. It's not looking good for an interior.
-
I've set out to build a copy of this in LDD, perhaps to modify and build later on. It strikes me that the masts in this model are probably not very sturdy, and I'll have to design something of my own, but for now I'm a bit stuck on the upper hull. It looks like the yellow stripe is made with flexible tubing, but I really can't see how it's kept in there (barring cheating and using glue, or just relying on gravity, neither of which I can imagine a certified professional relying upon). Furthermore, I can't really see how he gets the upward slope in the blue 2x2 plates on the aft deck. Does anybody have any ideas concerning how these might have been achieved?
-
You asked for criticism, that's all I could come up with. You know a whole lot more about these things than I do, and I think the ship looks great so far.
-
Ok... um... she needs more guns, I guess
-
Kurigan, have I told you lately how awesome you are?
-
That Endeavor is brilliant! I wish they had more pictures of it there.
-
This is the first time I've gotten a really clear view of her. Did you use a stern prefab piece for the bow, in order to give it that sleek look? If so, that's ingenious! I'd like to reiterate that I like how the hull lines make her look really fast.
- 14 replies
-
- pirates
- 3masts ship
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
32 gun frigate Concorde (French, ca.1760-1780)
Cousarmy0001 replied to BrickPerfection's topic in Pirate MOCs
I love how all of your ships have topgallants.- 24 replies
-
- Age of Sail
- history
-
(and 5 more)
Tagged with:
-
I sent him a message, as I'd like to get this as well (and have had little success replicating it on my own). If he responds, I'll post the file here.
-
Oh, the big ships will come, trust me :-D It might be a little big for a sloop by MOC standards (most of the ships you see here are rather smaller than what they should be, my own included), but if you're after an accurate model, I'd say it's just about right.
-
At the risk of sounding like a suck up, Kurigan is one of the more knowledgeable people on the forum, both in terms of the actual ships, and in terms of Lego expertise, especially among the active members of the community. He's certainly an excellent source for information and ideas. I've stolen quite a few things from him over the past few years.
-
Not a bad start! That's very generous of you to give away your Legos, as well. I like how you placed the buckets at the base of the mast to store tools and such. That's a neat touch. The window hatchway is a neat idea as well, it suggests there's more going on below deck. You've also done a very good job getting the overall shape of the hull down. I would suggest shortening the sail on the back of the mast (I believe the technical term is "mizzen"), and making yourself some sails, if you can get a hold of some fabric, a pencil, and a straight edge of some kind. That adds A LOT to any ship. Here is a good sailmaking tutorial that I follow when I make sails. I generally don't dye mine, and I've found that dipping the sail edges in white school glue diluted in water stops fraying if you can't get a hold of hobby epoxy. It's your MOC, though, feel free to do whatever you like with the sails.
-
Welcome To Our New Pirates Regulator: Kurigan
Cousarmy0001 replied to Capn Frank's topic in LEGO Pirates
Yay Kurigan! Now Phred will have somebody to help him send angry messages to the post bumpers on the MOC thread! -
I'll refer you to my comments on the slootter thread for my suggestions. This picture is the best one you've posted yet.
- 14 replies
-
- pirates
- 3masts ship
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
I did, but I didn't notice that you posted brighter pictures until just now. They're still a bit far out to see much in the way of details, but I do like the aggressive lines of the hull. The bow makes her look very fast! I assume that the pirate flags on the hull are gunports. If that is so, I'd recommend having them open upwards, instead of sideways. I'd also suggest trying to work in some windows on the sides of your captain's cabin, perhaps trying to lower it into the hull a bit as well. You should be able to keep that stern gallery if you work some steps into the cabin. Barring that, I'd try to ease the transition between the hull and the cabin. The easiest way to do this would be to place a #30099 at the front of the aft castle on each side. Speaking of the cabin, does it have an interior? Other than that, I'd recommend making your own sails. I personally don't go for the dyed look, I prefer mine to be white, but as yours is a pirate ship, dyed might work for you. If you can't get your hands on some hobby epoxy like in the tutorial, if you get some plain white school glue (it's called Elmer's in the US, I don't know if they have something like that in Russia) and dilute it in water, then dip the edges of the sail into it, it'll keep the edges from fraying. I would also lower the bowsprit, and put it at a less extreme upwards angle. The axe on the front is a nice touch, and I recommend keeping it if you can. With that added length, you should be able to mount more than one sail running from your bowsprit to your mainmast (like how the ship on this thread has three. The technical term is a "forestay" or "jib"). I think that would compliment your swept hull, and make the ship look even faster. You might consider hanging a sail from the bottom of the bowsprit, like here: http://www.modelship...1/dIMG_0842.jpg I'd also suggest that you try to work in some more colors, other than just red and the brown of the hull. You could try tiling the deck (using tiles to make it look like there is planking on the deck), or possibly adding a stripe (the color of your choosing) along the length of the hull, level with the gunports. You could also try using a different colored flag (something other than the pirate flag or red flags) for your gunports. Lastly, a brick built anchor adds a lot to an MOC, you might want to look at some of the anchor designs on the forum.
-
Sorry I missed this question. They're fabric that I bought at a fabric store several years ago. I honestly don't remember the name of the fabric. The lines are drawn in pencil in accordance with the sail making tutorial. You mention Technic, though, which makes me think you're asking about the spars. If that's the case, then here's the parts they're made of, images with part numbers: