Aerolight

if you move the links back toward the (gear end of the) actuator 1 stud, so the links are at 90 degrees to it when at its shortest there will be almost no force transferred to the actuator when the suspension is compressed.

You can have more than 2 drives through a turntable, in applications like this. Instead of rotation you can use rods that move in and out easily allowing for 3 (or more) inputs as the blades have limited movement so don't require an unlimited movement or you can use hydraulics, both for added realism and size as the rod method requires a fair amount of length past the turntable to take drive off of although the bulk of the movement can be inside of the Pilon. The main problem is the size of the swatch plate being far to big as I think the only piece suitable is a large turntable. Its also important to recognise while the osprey is a very complex airframe is has among the best survivability rates of any helicopter.

A few year ago I made a similar, albeit only 2 speed gearbox. And encountered the same problem, after a few failed attempts my solution was to temporarily in gauge both speeds at once when shifting. As the force increased the lower speed would engage and only when it was fully engaged would the high speed disengage, it still took some finagling but eventually it would shift smooth every time (the main aid was slack in the spring that meant the gearbox required more force to shift up than down. In order to allow both gears to be engaged it needed a clutch ring per gear instead of one engaging with both, but if the ordering of this gearbox had speeds 1 and 3 on one clutch and 2 and 4 on the other it would not need extra clutches (like a duel clutch (which I guess this technically is)). Indexing the shifting would be annoying... but cool to watch neutral brake duel clutch shifting.

Lamborghini just announced a new car will be revealed 7 of may might be joined by the Sian model as this is the fist major reveal by them since the Sian.

Greetings train forum, I mainly frequent the technic forum but thought this might be a better fit here, due to something I am stuck away from my Lego (at my grand parents) for a while so no pics or updates for a while but was feeling down and though some of you might appreciate the ensuing wall of text that would annoy the technic goers not end. First I wanted to have a realistically working pneumatic train (I like to think we have all liked to believe such a thing could work at some point), while as you can imagine the pneumatic switches where, even after modifying, just too stiff to work smoothly at all let alone with all the links I was driving them through. But for this I first built a valve gear using a sliding block design (idk what you would call the system as it did not use a 90 drive (too week and too wide) off the wheels but used a different link system to account for it). While this system worked it was too big both in height and width (4 wide each side and about 10 studs off the tracks). But then I remembered baker valve gear, at first I had discounted it as it is more complex; but in Lego form while still more complex its far smaller EVEN SCALE for a larger shunter. However I did have to cut down most of the beams for it as it used strange half stud pieces i.e. 3 studs half thick with a cross at one end and a pin at the other. So then I mounted it in my train chassis and mounted the servo that controls it(I'm using power functions so servo had to be gear down twice to reduce the movement to +- 35 degrees-ish and insure neutral was completely level). This first prototype had the baker part of the gear outside the wheels and was 10 wide (the baker system requires a minimum of 4 rods to over lap so with half stud beams 2 studs either side) and a 10 wide expansion joint. This first prototype worked perfectly, as you increased the speed of the loco the servo would actuate the control link and the valve would open more and more to a maximum just over that of scale valve movement. It worked in both directions with no clicking clucking or increase in friction and looked amazing while doing so I think it might have been a first in Lego but even in the model space I know of few that have realistic working RC valve gear. The only problem was that due to the loco moving at the lowest increments on the speed controller the servo would move so little that combined with the slack in the links the valve movement at slow speeds is negligible. Next I moved the baker on top of the wheels allowing for it to be 8 wide at that point whilst not being any higher (I spaced the drive wheels out 1 stud to give clearance and also deleted the suspension (technic rubber 1x2s) for space) but I could only reduce the expansion link to 9 studs as it still has to be above the connecting rod and cylinder drive rod. This current version (not including the motors as they are central and can be easily covered) is 9 studs wide and about 6 studs high from the track (sorry memory) and drives great with a 4 wheel bogie at the back underneath the drive motor (L) and a tender holding the battery. But I don't know how to add a front bogie, I tried to raise the pistons to give space but it looked strange and if I have to move the pistons further out it would be 10 studs wide which also looks strange. Hopefully a easily solution will come to mind next time I see it but until then this is where the MOC currently stands; fully driving but no front bogie or coupling, no body (that comes last right?) and valve gear only on one side (I wanted to make sure it was finalised before I cut any more pieces. Along with simply finishing it in its current form I hope to rebuild it with control+, along with being more controllable, allowing me to fix the issue of pulling away in neutral, the servo is smaller and will not require extra reduction. This would give me the space for a cab with perhaps a moving leaver (sorry forget name) tied to the servo. Again sorry for the lack of pictures and poor explanations, but I will try to answer any questions.

Quite the opposite Lego's booth (one of if not the biggest there) was huge they had most of the sets they currently produce - they had every single technic set, just nothing new.

just saw a video of the lego booth at toy fair, no new technic but is only first day.

there is also a "printer" in the ideas book that uses the same system but with chain in a loop, works surprisingly well

The bed is too big causing the cab to be bigger to balance it - reduce both and it would improve a lot. The only reason I can think the bed is so out of scale is to hold something but idk what that could be. Still look forward to the use of this a base for the next-gen artillery system used by Sweden(which also has a crew cab configuration). Or under the bed might be all the electronics causing the bed to just sit out of scale height, but the bed looks to protrude far past the wheels anyway.

same here but the countaches roof dip does not continue to the front - the mirrors are closer to scale for the contach but still too large. But the sides of the front bumper are straight from a us spec late model countach but this might just be to the use of lego. The sian is to the next gen lambo what the revinton was to the aventador so it might be the next gen main v12 from lambo which will take a lot of design ques from the sian (and the countach) hence the slight differences.

countash (lol spelling) unless lambos next gen is low poly

Google translate never fails to fail thanks for the correction. After 2 days trying to get the old style gun to run on a motor, it worked like a real gun with a breach firing pin and ejector all separate moving pieces, I had to give up the amount of force was just to had for a lego motor + recoil springs to drive it fast enough to eject consistently. I think with some low strength springs it would be possible to make work, as I had to use a long recoil stroke of 5 studs and over FIFTEEN leavers to get everything to time properly. However I then remember a recent megablox halo scorpion that had shell ejection and watched a review to see how it worked, it used the magazine spring itself to eject the shells. Less than an hour later and I've got a dead reliable 5 shot gun that can be cycled with very little force as both the force that shoot and the force that ejects is stored in pre-compressed springs. Its also a lot smaller so will try to add a multiple magazines.

After seeing the lego drone fly, I wondered if a plane was possible with a lower voltage like that from a buwizz. But the voltage from the buwizz in ludicrous mode is less than half of that used in the drone. (I've already ordered parts excluding the buwizz and propellers) I have build wing spars and ,when the rest of the parts arrive, stretch plastic over them to form an aerofoil, the shape is actually very good and should fly well at a 1-10 thrust to weight ratio. The weight should come in at around 750-1000 grams depending on how much reinforcement I need, so should need only 100g of thrust (seems low I know but it just shows how much more efficient planes are than helicopters). As buwizz are rather expensive I was going to wait until I have built a working glider with the motors and servos to test, but was wondering if there was a user that could test how much thrust they could get with a buwizz. I know this is a long shot due to the rarity of the good white lego propellers but thought it was worth the creating the post just encase. (Will post plane updates in a separate topic). Thanks

The initial idea was to create a tank with the most helpful additions for post-apocalyptic, but then I realised that's not that mad max sooo; "Now the gun shoots spears instead of traditional tank rounds (this is also innkeeping with the ban on modifying parts), which are far easier to use independently of the industrial arms complex and fit the blades over guns aesthetic of mad max. There is a giant double wide dozer/shovel hybrid on the front both for creating fortifications and destroying them. On the back of the turret is a crane, while also being arguably the most important piece of machinery in construction it also allows for display of those you deem unworthy of a place in your convoy. The tanks itself is suspended on 5 sets of double wishbones pilfered from discarded medium duty trucks, while the general shape of modelled after tanks from throughout history on the whim of the history crazed lunatic that jerry-rigged the thing together when the world first fell apart." Back to the Lego; the supergun is the centrepiece and is one of the few shell ejecting guns built. The gun uses the newer spring shooters (roughly 1x4 brick sized) currently in a 6 shot magazine and will recoil the barrel, trigger the launcher, open the breach and the eject the round with one smooth motion. The gun barrel moves forward on the motor loading a round then suddenly reciprocates back on a spring performing all the other operations in a split second making it look like a real gun firing (I even made the shell cartwheel when ejected ;)). As everything is directly controlled by the barrel/recoil there is only need for one spring and as this spring does not have to contain the energy to launch the spear the spring can be relatively light allowing for multiple shots per second (the shells stream out like we all love). I will post picks and a vid once the gun is mounted in the turret, just had to make this post as I went from nothing to my best ever gun and tank chassis in less than a day.

I hope he makes a plane as well - planes require far lower thrust to mass ratio to fly. so he would hopefully gain a far more capable aircraft even with the added weight of a plane airframe (quick maths guess suggests that one L-MOTOR Could lift over 1.5 kilo in aeroplane format with rc quality wings but flat lego sheets might make a surprisingly good substitute... ).

This - wow much voltage (not my MOC just sharing this amazing creation - forgot some people add by (name) when its their creation, I apologise for this)

When I started designing I only skimmed the rules so missed the part about no cutting... however now my tank has an auto loading, shell ejecting, case powered spear launcher; perfect fit for a mad max theme. (I'm using the new(ish) style spring launchers which are almost worthless on bricklink even with 3 pieces and one being a spring). A good idea for mad max is always repurpose, no tracked vehicles then build one with cut up car chassis hence double wishbone suspended tracks. Mad max also seams to lack building and food equipment, time for the offscreen vehicles to make an appearance?

the same as the grey steering links (the ones with ball connections) much softer than normal technic - I have some I have twisted to 90 permanently by twisting well over 300 degrees. Although normal lego axles work well for torsion bars of a reasonable scale if that is the application

Can the new diff piece be used with the old 2 stud long dog clutches? as if not I think the only ones currently available/compatible are 3 studs long meaning the diff-locker assembly would be 6 studs long; which is a not so small pain for making axles.

Woops appears I uploaded a photo rather than a video (first pic) so here's the video (hopefully) <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/183144762@N07/49136474108/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_2380"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/49136474108_c9c4443e40_k.jpg" width="1920" height="1080" alt="IMG_2380"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> since this version I have tried to add some sort of valve gear but the valve is so tight that all my attempts use more power than the engine produces, so might just omit it from the final version. guess not sorry for that - guess you have to click the picture and watch via flicker - rip me 3 post by myself I feel bad

This is just a prelude to the twin cylinder 9x4 bore rectilinear engine; built as a test bed while the strange parts (for a technic model at least, 1x10 (50) and 1x12 (50) system) arrive. (first video on flicker was an ordeal) IMG_2380 by michael waterfield, on Flickr IMG_0415 by michael waterfield, on Flickr The engine consists of a 4x4x5 gauge as the longest system pieces I have at the moment are 1x8, this is why there is an outrageously long piece existing the cylinder as it is meant for the cylinder with a stroke of 9. The cylinder consists of two layers of system; one (outer) conventional and the inner layer is built sideways so the bore and valve seat are perfectly smooth (this allows the engine to make 10 revolutions from a single hand spin of the flywheel). You may have noticed the tether beam no-clipping through the 1x4s, I milled out a half cross on each one so there would be an almost air tight seal that still allows for movement (to a less than 5 thousands of an inch clearance on all sides). While I would (of course) prefer not to modify pieces the gain in functionality is so great it cant be ignored (it also looks a lot cleaner than other solutions), but no other modifications or glue so that's positive. IMG_0417 by michael waterfield, on Flickr All the other lego brick built engines (that I've seen) make a chuging sound but it is an allusion; their sound comes from the leaking air from the cylinder and stops when the valve closes. But with the smooths tight walls and the tight fit of the conrod this one makes an authentic chuffing sound; sound is produced by the opening of the valves in an exhaust state - sounds like a real engineered stationary engine of the same size. The engine runs very fast even on the lowest setting on my hoover (although mine is from before the EU rule limiting their power (2.2 kw); known as the dyson accords lel) and produces plenty of torque even with its small displacement, unfortunately I don't have the lego tachometer so I made this basic guvnor which the engine can easily max out (if you want to get a handle on just how fast this is gear up a motor to do the same). The engine is built without relying on any friction connections which allows it to endure far higher pressures than it would otherwise, watching videos of these in action and you can tell their builder is being careful with the amount of suction so as not to rip the piston off the end of the axle/conrod. The engine is surprisingly close to air tight - if you hold the flywheel the hoover hits it cut-off meaning the engine is looseing less air form its gaps than the vacuum is producing, even on its lowest (200watt) setting. I all-ways said I would use the method from the failed gas engine for something a Littlemore Victorian....

the lego group would get far more of a return from selling pieces direct to customers than the small kickbacks from resellers (5% and 50% (approx.) respectively). Lego have run special batches to keep up with large unsponsored projects before (although anything Lego is technically advertising) so lego have the capability just up until now they lacked enough meaningful data to start more than specific runs of pieces for specific customers. Although there would be money to be made on any piece that floats over regular mark-up (train wheels are a good example) it not worth the time for lego unless they can balance the stocks of many pieces. just look at how many pieces float MAGNATUDES under lego's price I cant think there will be a major removal of functionality from bricklink but the addition of new features, bricks and pieces integration, full in window purchasing and an overall higher amount of branding/advertising is highly lightly. Lego has been trying to cater to the needs of afols for years now this is just the continuation/culmination of their efforts.. but maybe lego is as blind as some us think and only harm will be done. "__________" ITS THE COMPANY THE AFOL community is calling the second coming of the BRICKLINK, you cant defeat it!

if lego uses the data from bricklink transactions they can help bolster supply where needed, we get more bricks lego gets more sales. But as lego don't reprint old pieces I cant help think this is not enough to warrant their involvement.. however I cant imagine a better place to advertise lego than with bricklink combine this with more community interaction and lego group gains a lot.

The method I used was a pully wheel driven by one of the outer holes with a halve stud 1x2 technic piece, then to use a brick built square around it. Works amazingly well and is only 2 studs wide the only problem is that a 4x4 system square is slightly smaller than a technic so will only work with a technic square which may not add to the overall aesthetic. Are you planning to use glue? a lot of the pieces you have shown have large gaps (the radius pieces I only found out after a brick link order) and the sides of the other cylinders are even worse, not to continue the negativity but.. Lego engines rely on high flow of air and you just cant get that from a air bottle of reasonable size (even the best Lego engines struggle to run on compressors due to the lack of flow due to boost leaks). However there are ways around this just you will be sacrificing the aesthetic for functionality namely square pistons. I don't know if you've seen it but there's an even larger version on youtube driven by a motor (its huge like 10000 pieces +) and it looks great but if you want it to run on air a complete redesign is in order. If it helps I'm going to post my air engine after I get some more pieces to finalise it, but even now the engine has more power than a rc motor (albeit at a far higher rpm also a "small" amount bigger) so good engines are possible just requires restrictive methods i.e. they look low poly

It PuTs ThE dArK gReEn In ThE BaSkEt