Aerolight

Without the increase in speed the drive shaft cv would not be able to take the torque (direct drive caused me to lose one of the long cv joints already after a single motor pulse) , the ones in the front hubs can take more as they spend most of the time at 0 degrees. The real truck uses a chain drop box and I wanted to include a realistic driveline. I was going to replace the ball part of the cv with a brass ball I could machined slots into, but I cant find the ones I have lying around and my steel balls come from bearings and just wont cut well, but if the new wheels + body weight cause them to fail I will order some. Ready to film once I get the tires, but they were listed as shadow stock so might have to wait for the heat death of the universe before they arrive.

Finished the axles and they come in at a whooping 47 studs wide (3/4 the length of the zetros) and with the wheels fitted 51 studs. The rims have finished printing and are so large that large balloon tires can fit inside them. Just waiting on the other 2 tires to arrive, £35 for 2 but they are very claggy.

My m motors with new internals running off buwizz 3 (2-one each) in my direct drive buggy would smoke these - looks to be twice as fast and powerslides on tarmac The problem i had was sheering the axles and after some abuse one of the motors planetary gearboxes exploded but since i extended the axles to provide a cush drive effect this has not been a problem. I have been wanting to film it for months but was scared of wearing out the motors before using them in the plane, but will probably just do it anyway bored of waiting. The buggy has front and rear anti roll bars (when disconected it just flips) brick built frount hubs and progresive suspension; to make up for the lack of dampers when doing jumps.

Got back to this moc, proper large scale pick up body and much bigger tires 4" by 7" (twice the diamiter of normal balloon tires lol). After testing the axles can handle the extra force (with reposisioned links) but the steering needed a rebuild with twin racks. To take force away from the steering the pivot point will be in the middle of the tires, meening the axles have to get even longer - longer than most trucks themselves. Just need 3d filiment for the 3.8" rims.

All the gears are standard sizes except for 2 32 tooth gears. Just noticed the wear on the clutch I guess it has seen a fair amount of use. Was going to record the plane but the weather preferred I did this instead.

Bad weather so indoor filming only - no plane This engine has floating flap valves which allow for the best seal (as far as Lego is concerned). The blocks the flaps pivots in are free to move forward and back, this allows the flap to sit flush against the cylinder when closed. The inlet valve sits in side of each cylinder while the exhaust is external (the one your see oscillating in the video) so the pressure keeps the valves closed. No modified parts and all legal connections (I think at least) I don't have enough rubber bands (close valves) so had to steal some from other MOCs.

It is a hypothetical tank - although I think I read somewhere that an semi/autoloader was going to be considered for serial production so the loader could be dropped to account for the lack of internal space. I think the real tank did have a small bustle arrangement for a small number of projectiles to help with fast loading - why some people say it has a semi automatic loader but its just a small assistance feature.

That is how the rounds are fed ; selected from the carousel by arm lifted behind the breach by arm rigid chain rams the round into battery and the breach closes carousel is then rotated to next round arm goes back down to collect next round (this also fires the round in the barrel) the breach is then opened ejecting the spent case Sorry if the clips where confusing I should have taken more angles.

Thanks it should work now

Finally after lots of procrastination my second video and as promised the object 279 - which coincidently has just been returned to running condition IRL. No talk through this time, so probably requires some expiation; The tank struggles to turn on grass - the whole frame twists and the track will skip on the sprockets The only modified pieces are; the rounds are cutdown, the gear tracks in the rigid chain round pusher have cut corners to allow for a hinge and 2 beams have a slit to allow for a 24 tooth gear (track drive) This might be one of most realistic carousel autoloader in the world as the rounds are fired by the springs in the cases. The autocannon could use a slope to trigger the rounds but is less accurate than a separate movement strait up - also easy recoil mechanism As the round pickup arm pivots at the same point as the barrel, when off the tank the carousel autoloader can load and fire at over 90 degrees of depression The plane will probably be the next but I just finished the most realistic Lego manual gearbox ever - with multiple width custom gears, correct engagement, pedal operated realistic clutch and transmission brake (5+r).

Just finished my 3d printed realistic gearbox and I had to use a 3 stud gap between shafts to get a truly realistic gearbox - just the gear stack is 8 studs tall by 5 studs wide by 13 studs long so just to big for one of these supercars. A slightly more realistic one should be reasonable though - odd and even gears separate like real double clutch boxes

They are for more speed not torque - the current red gear can take huge amounts of torque but at high rpm the mesh shape causes precise wear on the outside edge of the frame hole (spur gear). With this new mesh the force will be spread over more area allowing for more speed without requiring metal inserts (ask me how I know). I think this does indicate a new RC but not a groundbreaking one - just one that can fly a little closer to the sun. Using this new gear will reduce peak torque though due to the lower ratio.

same hubs same gearbox best thing appears to be the BMW motorcycle shocks and general design

The problem is when you gear them up there is so much lateral force on the axle that is melts in seconds - really. My buggy is direct drive and does 20kph (I would guess no GPS and its super hard to keep straight) but it can drift on tarmac lol. In my plane they are geared up but use extra gears to help take the load (pics soon) The planetary gears seem to be unworn so far; even those in the motors somehow. But the cv joints do have some erosion but it is only surface level and the truck has been driven for about 2 hours total. I think the planetary gears will only fail if dirt gets in them so avoid water and I used duck tape to cover the underside.

Defiantly but the place I got them from originally has closed due to import problems and it does require careful grinding down the center shaft, although apart from that and moving the gear from the old motor it is practically drag and drop (and soldering)!

The pins are 3l 2pin 1 axle with the axle cut off. Without the extra reduction the diff gear would skip but mainly the cv joints would combust under the torque - these motors are monsters the axles after the planetary hubs are all twisted, and on my direct drive buggy they can shear axles directly. The motors are the best they retain the Lego case and internal planetary reduction but the motor itself has been replaced with a rare earth magnet hand wound super motor. These motors require buwizz 3.0 to even turn over and even it can only provide half of its rated current (2 motors on 1 hub causes overload protection) (although bad Lego wires are probably at their limit anyway). Motors peak at over 20 watts from a buwizz 3.0 - Lego motors are about 1 watt. (much more power than rc motors even in a far smaller package) I will show how they are made once I get some more motors - I only have 2 and switch them between MOCS. They should be enough for me to claim the first true flying Lego plane. And the cost of all this... £3.50 PER MOTOR Lego is such a scam lol The only difficult part is removing the gear from the old motor - to do this i had to use a lathe but should be possible with a hammer. The springs just stop the axles from coming out due to the rpm And yeh I do suck at aesthetics

Finally finished my big truck (100-1 axles) and while I tried to be careful to not go full speed for to long I still managed to melt the rear cv axle almost all the way through a 5x7 frame. So finally I drilled out the frame hole to fit an inner sleave made of stainless steel (glued to the cv) and a outer sleave made of brass to the frame, and know it works perfectly I just need to make the modification the to front cv now.

Thanks, the chain was originally made for my second attempt at a live gas engine (cam chain) still yet to test; to nice to melt. I find the problem with the small Lego chain is that it does not run very smoothly but this might just be due to mine being old.

Finally I have made my first video, hopefully the first of many. I explain a good deal in the video but I left some things out like how many pieces are modified - can you spot all of them. I know you cant wait to see the plane and tank in action, I cant wait to answer your questions. The old buggy is the only official set I have together.

I would like to think now is when we will get the last pieces we need for a realistic sequential as there are not many parts left; 2 new clutches with gear teeth (different gear sizes) 3L 2 or 3 new gears with clutch and 2 or 3 without, possible new teeth count to keep the size for clutch engagement if the size is to be kept down wave cam with 2 waves and 1/8 engagement (if you put the cam peak at 22.5 degrees from axle cross you get 8 possible positions allowing for 7 speeds and a neutral Although it might use a larger gear size altogether, 2 studs between the gear shafts would allow for larger ratio changes. As most of the new parts would be the gears it might not use any, it could use the same existing ratio for separate gears allowing for realistic operation without all the new elements required. Only 2 new elements would be required which Lego would like and I care more about the operation than a ratio change in a static model anyway.

Just got a second 3.0 (2 day delivery was on point) and found with the right gearing it is possible to get 7 amps combined (when using both outputs) and about 4.5 amps (single channel). But when it goes over 4 amps it reads as 0 amps (4.5 amps shows 0.5 amps). When charging (from a laptop) it takes hours to get the green light to stop flashing is this normal or am I overcharging?

Rip some more parts One of my trucks has the lowest gear reduction ever (over 1/100 in the axles) so to get it to go any speed the centre diff has to spin at some speed. well I geared it up 3 times over what it was before and... 20210825_144057[1] by michael waterfield, on Flickr 20210825_144603[1] by michael waterfield, on Flickr The thing with the centre diff and cv joint is strange, all my strength wont remove it, yet it is still free to move and works perfectly. I think there is a lip inside the frame and a grove in the axle caused by the heat. I think it will be fine with lubrication (as this happened dry) but the centre diff was spinning well over 5000 rpm when this happened (the wheels took less than a second to make a full revolution).

btw the small hub is 190 dollars. The small motor has a lot of applications but will probably take years for it to get a recolour and be put in a technic set

Just did some tests with a buggy, the steering works well but u need to restrict the movement at the motor for good results. With my m motors the buggy is rapid about 20mph and faster accelerating than my old nitro rc, hard to control with a phone but makes up for it by spinning its wheels on tarmac. In this test I was still getting low sustained power (donuts on tarmac low lol), under 2 amps per channel. But saw the highest peak yet at 3.6 amps per channel but the brick instantly bricked and needed to be pluged in. I want to buy another buwizz to power my motors individually but will have to wait a bit for the coffers to replenish. And how do they control if you have multiple bricks; if u have one brick powering one wheel and another brick powering the other how in sink would they be? @Zerobricks If u are getting over 3 amps sustained for a single channel then I guess mine is faulty (hard to believe as it is already so good) as even on a single channel I don't get a sustained current over 2.6. But if you mean a split second of over 3 amps then I would think mine is fine.

Buwizz 3.0 and i just connected 4 pu motors to find one port does not work but still lights up, I don't need 4 outputs anyway so I don't mind much but if I could be getting 3 amps per channel that would be a large improvement as port 1 starts flashing red when both pf outputs only show 1.5 amps. Thanks for your help. edit- just tried stock lego motors on both outputs and the brick will flash red on port 1 then shut down at a sustained output under 1.9 amps for both. Not sure why but it does show a higher shutdown current for stock motors than my modded ones; about 20%